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Hier — 28 mars 2024Lifehacker

What to Do If Your Neighbor’s Tree Hangs Over Your Property

Sometimes it seems like living in a society would be much better if we didn’t have to deal with all these other people all the time. If you own a home, you know that your neighbors are both one of life’s great blessings and often the biggest pain in your ass. On the one hand, sometimes you wake up and they’ve shoveled the snow from your sidewalk, and when you go on vacation they check on your cat! On the other hand, things can get really tense when disputes crop up unexpectedly—like when your neighbor’s tree hangs over your fence.

At first glance this might not seem like a big deal, but those overhanging branches can cause problems. They mess up your property by dumping leaves everywhere; they can scrape your roof shingles, smack into windows during high winds, and get tangled in power lines. Underground, the tree's roots could be worming into your sewer and water lines. That tree might be pretty, and you might enjoy its borrowed shade on sunny days, but if it starts to be a problem, what can you do?

Tree law

America is not so much a large country as a collection of tiny countries standing on each other’s shoulders wearing a trenchcoat, so the laws governing trees and property will vary from state to state—you’ll have to do some local research if you’ve got a situation brewing with a neighbor’s tree. That said, there are three things that are almost certainly true about your neighbor’s tree:

  • It has value. Sure, it’s a tree, and apparently grows for free out of the ground as if by elven magic. But a tree on your neighbor’s property has monetary value. For one thing, your neighbor may have paid for the tree and had it planted. Then there are other benefits, like the carbon dioxide offset of that tree, the cooling effect of its shade, or fruit that it provides. The USDA Forest Service offers a free calculator that estimates the economic benefits of a tree, which isn’t definitive but gives you some idea of how someone might define its value.

  • It’s your neighbor’s property. If the tree’s trunk is entirely on your neighbor’s property, no matter how much it overhangs yours, it belongs to them just like anything else in their yard. If the trunk straddles or crosses the property line, it’s probably considered a boundary tree—community property. That means that you have as much say and responsibility for it as your neighbor, but you still can’t unilaterally make decisions about it.

  • You have the right to defend your property. If the tree’s branches cross the property line, you have the right to trim them, especially if they threaten to damage anything. But you can’t go past your property line under any circumstances.

That last bit might make this all seem very clear and simple: If the tree is causing havoc on your side of the fence, get out there and cut it back to the property line. While you have the right to do that, you should think twice for one simple reason: If you touch your neighbor’s tree and damage it, destroy its aesthetic value, or kill it outright, you could be held liable for the loss and the cost of treating or replacing it. This can run to the thousands of dollars—especially if it’s an expensive ornamental tree that’s part of a cohesive landscaping design.

How to trim

So you have to be careful if your neighbor’s tree is invading and needs trimming. Here’s your best approach:

  • Talk to your neighbor. That liability goes both ways: Since the tree is your neighbor’s property, if it damages your property you can hold them liable. Approach your neighbor and ask if they’ll help trim the tree or grant explicit permission to do the work on your side, releasing you from liability—they might be incentivized to do so if the tree is causing damage. If it’s a boundary tree, you’ll need to negotiate with your neighbor anyway to get anything done.

  • Call the power company. If the offending tree is near power lines, you can probably call your local utility and schedule a free tree trimming. Most utilities have arborists on staff, and they are more than happy to clear branches away from power lines to avoid damage. That being said, keep in mind that the utility may trim more aggressively than you want. Also, keep in mind that once alerted to trees near power lines on your (or your neighbor’s property), the utility can come and trim them any time they want without your permission. Electric utilities have an easement on all private property to allow them access for maintenance and repair.

  • Hire a professional. The more you distance yourself from the tree trimming, the less likely you’ll run into trouble. You’ll want a company that has a certified arborist on staff, because trees are living things and they come in a wide variety of species. An arborist can identify the tree and prescribe the right way to trim it without damaging it or leaving it vulnerable to disease.

A tree growing right by your property line offers a lot of free benefits—but also free problems. If the latter is starting to outweigh the former, be careful—trimming your neighbor’s tree can open up a can of worms.

À partir d’avant-hierLifehacker

10 Garden Upgrades You Can DIY for Less Than $100

As the weather warms up, it’s a great time to get your garden set up for planting and consider anything you can do to make the most of your space. That said, new garden features and updates can quickly get expensive. If you’re not aiming for a total landscaping redo, there are plenty of DIY garden upgrades you can undertake for less than $100.

Direct your climbing plants with an expandable lattice

To train climbing plants along a fence line, the edge of a porch, or along the side of a pergola, you can use an expandable lattice ($36.98/ 13 by 78 inch section) to fit your lattice to your desired space. An expandable lattice can also be hung vertically along a post to train vines upwards. The lattice will shrink to a narrower, three or four foot section if you have a smaller stretch with no cutting necessary.

Build an arched trellis

To build a dreamy arched trellis for your climbing plants, you can use galvanized welded fencing ($50.52 for a 3 foot by 50 foot section) attached to t-posts ($6.98/each). Drive the t-posts into the ground, three feet apart, on either side of your intended arch, then unroll your galvanized fencing over the posts, creating an arch connecting the two sides. Use the built-in metal clips or some wire ($5.93/250 feet) to attach the fencing to your posts.

Make a hula hoop trellis

You can also make a climbing trellis using hula hoops ($21.99/10), a garden stake ($26.99/25), and some twine ($4.99/400 feet). By tying the hula hoops to the garden stakes using twine, you can suspend them in the air. The hula hoops are adjustable, so you can create a graduated trellis for climbing plants by arranging them with the smallest hoops at the top and the largest at the bottom. You can also arrange the hoops vertically by hanging them from a stake, post, or fence to make a circle trellis for climbing flowers.

Use pavers to build your raised beds

One of the cheapest and most popular ways to make raised beds is by using concrete patio pavers ($.48/each for a seven-inch by three-and-a-half inch by one-and-three-quarter-inch paver). You can stack the pavers in rows like bricks around the area of your bed to create an edge, then fill it with your own compost. The advantage of a paver-bordered garden bed versus a traditional box is that you can shape it however you like, or account for an existing slope in your garden.

Make a stock tank raised bed

Stock tank raised beds ($49.99 for one five-foot by three-foot by one-foot bed) are a popular choice for DIY raised beds because they’re durable and simple to install. Using a metal raised bed is a lighter and leaner alternative to wooden framed beds, but they can be susceptible to heat, so keep that in mind when choosing what to plant in them.

Make raised beds with cedar boards

A raised bed is simple to build using cedar boards ($9.25/each for a three-quarter inch by eight-foot by four-inch board), “l” brackets ($3.48 each), ¾ inch screws ($6.87/box), and 1 ⅝ inch screws ($10.97/box). Cut your boards to the desired length for each side of your bed, then screw the ends onto the sides of the bed using the 1 ⅝ inch screws. Use the ¾ inch screws to add “l” brackets to the inside of each corner to reinforce the joints. If you want a taller bed, use a piece of board cut to the desired height at each corner to join the boards vertically.

Make a mobile planter using a cart

You can use a metal cart ($37.02) and some flower pots ($13.99/three) to make a rolling planter/plant stand for your porch or patio. You can also use a thrifted piece of furniture and add your own castors ($11.99/four) to create a cart. A rolling planter can make it easier to water and maintain your plants, and ensure they get the right amount of sunlight.

Use a mold to make a pathway

If you want an cheaper concrete pathway, you can use a paver mold ($25.29/two) and some concrete mix ($21.88/ten pounds) to pour your own pavers. Using a mold allows you to create a path in the shape you want and save some money doing it. You’ll need some basic concrete tools ($14.99) for this project if you don’t already have some.

Make a path with mulch

To make a mulch pathway, first, define your path by staking some landscape fabric over the intended area using landscaping staples ($9.99/50). Once you have your path laid out, you can either lay down store-bought mulch ($4.97/two cubic feet), or you can use free mulch from Chip Drop. (Just be aware that Chip Drop will leave your mulch in a parking space or driveway and it will be up to you to move it to your desired pathway area.)

Plant a container garden

To create some different layers, you can try a container garden. You can use almost any type of container, but something like this stainless steel tub ($54.99), this terracotta pot ($21.44), or this concrete planter ($38.41) will be durable outdoors. SOme gardeners have success upcycling old cooking pots, tool boxes, and paint cans into containers for garden plants as well. Really anything that will hold some dirt and stand up to the elements is a good candidate for a low cost planter.

9 Types of Outlets You Might Find in Your House (and What They’re Supposed to Power)

Every time you plug something into a wall receptacle, you’re leveraging the awesome power of the electron to power your video games and chill your beverages—which makes knowing something about those outlets an important aspect of home ownership. Plugging an appliance into the wrong receptacle or replacing one with an incorrect choice is an easy way to destroy your property and injure yourself, after all—so here are 9 receptacles you might encounter in your house that you should know about.

Outlets, receptacles, amps, and volts

Everyone knows what you mean when you say you’re going to plug something into an outlet, but technically the outlet is a location where you have access to wiring. The spot where you install a light fixture is an outlet. A receptacle is where a plug is inserted. In practice, people use them pretty interchangeably.

Power receptacles are described in terms of amperage (amps) and voltage (volts). You don’t really need to know too much about this in your role as Person Who Wants Their Toaster to Stop Tripping the Circuit Breaker, but it matters because your appliances and devices all need specific amps and volts to operate correctly and safely. You can think of volts as the “strength” of the electricity, kind of like water pressure—the force that’s pushing the power along—and amps as the “speed” or volume of the electricity. Some appliances need a lot of electricity very fast, some need less at a slower rate. Plugging them into the wrong receptacle can be exciting! But also very dangerous.

Ungrounded

ungrounded, two-prong outlet
Credit: Adurable Creations / Shutterstock.com

If you have power outlets in your home with just two prongs, your home’s electric infrastructure is old and needs some attention. These plugs lack a grounding prong and they’re pretty dangerous because any kind of short circuit can send electricity flowing into you if you touch it, and can even cause fires if they spark. They stopped being standard in the 1960s and were prohibited outright in the early 1970s, so even if yours have been working perfectly for years, you should seriously consider replacing them.

15 amps, 110/120 volts

three-pronged receptacle
Credit: studio23 / Shutterstock.com

This three-pronged receptacle is the most common one you’ll find in your house, providing 110 or 120 volts of power with a maximum current of 15 amps to a long list of standard devices and small appliances like phone chargers, computers, toasters, and lamps. The bottom prong is the ground, which is what prevents electricity from leaping out of your power receptacle. And if you see a face here, it’s a phenomenon called pareidolia.

20 amps, 120/125 volts

receptacle for 20 amps, 120/125 volts
Credit: ZikG / Shutterstock.com

These outlets have a top left prong that looks like a letter “T” on its side. They provide slightly zippier amperage for appliances that draw more power than most, like your microwave oven. The amp and voltage ratings are top ends, though, so you can also plug in devices that need less power.

20 amps, 240/250 volts

receptacle for 20 amps, 240/250 volts
Credit: ZikG / Shutterstock.com

Larger appliances (like an electric stove) that need more power to operate will plug into one of these. You can tell a 250-volt 20-amp plug from a 125-volt plug by the right prong, which is sideways. That means you can’t plug smaller things into this receptacle because of the higher voltage.

30 amps, 240/250 volts

receptacle for 30 amps, 240/250 volts
Credit: gunawand3570 / Shutterstock.com

The 30-amp, 240/250-volt receptacle (third from the left on top in the image above) has two sideways prongs. It’s intended for appliances that need a lot of power. You’ll often find one installed near the windows in your home because they’re used for large window-mounted air conditioners.

30 amps, 125/250 volts

This receptacle (top line, far right in image above) has two slanted prongs and one prong that resembles a letter “L.” You’ll see these referred to as “appliance outlets” because they’re used by washers, driers, and other larger appliances in the home.

50 amps, 125/250 volts

receptacle for 50 amps, 125/250 volts
Credit: Corosis_Varanus / Shutterstock.com

This is an industrial-strength power receptacle rarely found in a residence—there’s just really no need for it in the house. You might find one in the garage, or if the house has a dedicated workshop of some sort, especially if a previous owner had some serious hobbies, like welding. Chances are if you have one you won’t have a use for it.

GFCI and AFCI

GFCI and AFCI receptacle
Credit: Lost_in_the_Midwest / Shutterstock.com

Available in a range of amperage and voltage, these receptacles look very similar and offer similar functionality, and can be identified by the reset buttons on the front of the receptacle. Ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles are designed to detect when the current has gone somewhere it shouldn’t (for example, into your body) and will shut down. They’re required in damp areas like kitchens and bathrooms to prevent water from shorting out the receptacle. Arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCI) don’t prevent electrical shocks, they prevent electrical fires by detecting power leaks and shutting down accordingly.

USB Outlet

USB Outlet
Credit: yakiniku / Shutterstock.com

If your house is fairly new or recently had the wiring updated, you might find a USB receptacle. This is pretty straightforward: It’s a 15- or 20-amp, 120- or 125-volt receptacle that has USB connections in addition to or instead of a three-prong plug. This can be handy if you have a lot of devices that need charging.

Seven Ways to Spruce Up Your Outdoor Dining Space (for Less Than $100 Each)

As the weather gets warmer, many of us are ready to get outside and grill. Elevating the al fresco dining experience by having an outdoor place to eat is a great addition for entertaining, but creating one can be expensive. If you don’t have the budget for a total patio renovation, here are some budget ideas for creating an outdoor cooking and dining experience that can boost your BBQ hosting game.

Create some counter space

Adding an island or a counter for your grilling space can make cooking outdoors that much easier. You can upcycle a rolling cart ($37.99) into a work table or counter space by adding some countertop material to the top. You can usually get discounted scraps of countertop from cabinet or building supply outlets. You can also opt to use a finished kitchen cart ($85.49) or a thrifted set of shelves and then add some more robust casters ($25.19) for outdoor use. Having your countertop on wheels allows you to move it easily indoors for seasonal storage as well as double your work surface as a dining surface if you have a smaller space.

Add a mini fridge

A small fridge can up your outdoor cooking game by giving you a place to keep food chilled while you do prep or keep a few cold beverages on hand. You can add a truly tiny fridge ($46.27) that accommodates up to 15 12oz cans or you could opt for a slightly larger, 1.6 cubic foot fridge ($98.00). Make sure you have an outdoor outlet nearby to keep your fridge plugged in.

Add an ice bucket

If you don’t have an outlet for an outdoor fridge, you can still serve up some frosty beverages with an ice bucket to keep them cool. You can add a pair of simple, four-gallon ice buckets ($25.98) or you can choose to use a drop in tub ($37.50) that you can add a cutout for in an existing countertop or table. You can also opt for an ice bucket that doubles as a side table ($54.99) for some extra table space along with your cold drinks.

Shed some light

Adding lighting both for food prep and ambiance can help you to upgrade your outdoor space from a plain old cookout location to an outdoor kitchen. You can add some wired outdoor industrial sconces ($29.99/two) if you already have power in your outdoor area. If not, you can opt for solar sconces ($29.99) as long as you have a place to hang them with sun exposure. For ambiance, you can add a solar pendant light ($22.95), or some lanterns (29.99/two) to your seating or dining area to brighten it up.

Turn a shelf into a bar

You can add a shelf to the side of your house or shed by hanging a 12-inch board ($14.22) with some shelf brackets ($69.99 for four) or fold-down brackets ($13.99 for two) to create a surface for drinks and plates without taking up a ton of space or blowing your budget. You can also choose to upcycle a thrifted console table, shelf, or desk into a bar space by adding some good quality exterior paint ($28.04/quart) to protect it from the elements and make it easier to clean. Adding some bar stools ($61.99/set of four) can help to give your outdoor bar a more finished feel.

Add color to your table

Adding textiles like an outdoor table runner ($5.90) or a new table cloth ($29.99) can give your old table a whole new look and make your outdoor dining space that much more inviting. If you have a table that’s showing some wear, you can choose to update the surface by giving it a good sand and some paint ($15.96) as well. If the surface is great, you can also freshen up an old piece by painting the legs instead.

Use planters or benches to delineate your space

In order to define your outdoor kitchen as well as give people somewhere to sit, using benches ($54.99), planters ($35.99), or a combination of both to outline your space can be very effective. Planning out the shape of your outdoor kitchen can be crucial to keeping the space feeling inviting as well as functional. If you’re handy, you can build some benches from cedar boards ($9.25 each for a ¾ inch by 4 inch by 8 inch board) supported by some wooden planter boxes ($60.99/set of two). Make sure that your bench seat has some support every two feet or so, to keep it sturdy.

The Best Sales on Home Improvement Tools During Amazon’s Big Spring Sale

Upgrade your garage workshop, lawn care, and DIY game with these deals from Amazon's ongoing Big Spring Sale, which we've been keeping our eyes on this week. If you have a project you’ve been eyeing around the house, these deals on home improvement tools can help you get it done for less.

Cordless tool sets

Cordless tool combo sets are a good way to build a new kit if you don’t already have one, or upgrade if you have older, corded tools. Bosch has a 12-volt drill and driver combo kit that comes with two batteries, and charger, and a case that is on sale for $106.99, 40% off its usual price. This set is good for small projects and repairs around the house, but isn’t suited for larger projects like decking.

Dewalt has a heavier duty 20-volt drill and driver combo kit that comes with 2 20 volt batteries, a charger, and a case along with the drill and driver for $139, 42% off its regular price. You can upgrade the kit and get a bundle that also comes with an impact bit set for $156.49, 40% off the regular price.

For a more comprehensive kit, you can find the DeWalt five-tool combo kit that comes with a drill, impact driver, oscillating tool, reciprocating saw, circular saw, two batteries, a charger, and a tool bag for $449.00, 30% off its regular price.

Tool batteries

Since batteries and chargers can be an expensive part of a cordless tools system, getting a deal on new batteries can be a game changer. DeWalt has some deep discounts on its tools, including a set of two 20 volt, 2AH MAX batteries for $129, 46% off the regular price. For larger batteries, the two pack of 20-volt, 6AH MAX batteries from DeWalt are on sale for $178.76, 38% off their usual price.

Bench tools

If you’re doing wood or metal working (or if your DIY projects just need a sturdy clamp), vises, bench mounted tools, and accessories can help keep you fingers safe and your parts steady while you work. The Craftsman 15-amp benchtop planer is on sale for $299, 36% off its regular price. It can accommodate boards up to 12.5 inches wide and can adjust to cut as thick as 6 inches.

The Wilton utility bench vise with a 4-inch opening and 4.5-inch jaws is on sale for $101.57, 58% off its regular price. The utility vise also has a small anvil work surface for metal working.

For larger projects and more versatility, the Wilton reversible bench vise has 6.5-inch wide jaws and can open to 12.75 inches when reversed. It also has pipe jaws that can accommodate up to a 3-inch pipe and two anvil surfaces for metal working. The reversible vise is on sale for $257.80, 56% off its usual price.

Hand tools

Adding to your hand tool collection can up your repair and DIY game. Luckily, there are some deals that can help you expand your set for less. The Craftsman socket extension and adapter set is on sale for $49.98, 36% off its normal price. It comes with several extension adapters as well as an angle adapter for tight spots and quarter, three-eights, and half-inch drive sockets.

The Craftsman quarter-inch drive extension set is also on sale for $9.98, 56% off its usual price. This set comes with one driver handle and three sizes of driver extensions for getting into tight spots.

The Sunex three-eighths inch drive imperial socket set is on sale for $31.30, 62% off its usual price, and has 13 deep sockets and a keeper.

The General Tools pipe cutter is on sale for $13.90, 35% off its regular price.

Measuring tools

Measuring and marking accurately can make all the difference on your next DIY job, so a few tool deals to help you build with accuracy are vital. If you can get past the obnoxious "gadgets for men" descriptor on Amazon, the General Tools contour gauge for tracing tile, flooring, and molding cuts is on sale for $10.04, 56% off its regular price. The General Tools depth and angle gauge is on sale for $4.56, 79% off its regular price.

Extension cords and electrical tools

Having the power you need when working in the shop or outdoors is indispensable, but cords and tools can get expensive. Here are some deals to up your electrical game. The Southwire 50-foot outdoor extension cord is on sale for $29.60, 33% off its regular price.

The Woods 25-foot, multiple outlet outdoor extension cord is on sale for $23.80, 30% off its normal price.

The Woods one-to-three splitter is on sale for $20.30, 32% off its usual price. It can spread as far as 20 feet between ends, and each cord measures approximately 13 feet.

The Kasa outdoor dimmable smart plug is on sale for $17.99, 40% off its regular price. It’s compatible with Google assistant, Alexa, and SmartThings.

The Astro Multimeter for testing continuity, voltage, and resistance in electrical wiring and components is on sale for $26.98, 37% off its regular price.

The Best Deals on Coffee Makers and Accessories During Amazon’s Big Spring Sale

Attention, coffee (and tea) drinkers: Whether you love the simple pleasure of picking up your java on the way to work or you take brewing at home very seriously, you should pay attention to Amazon’s Big Spring Sale. There’s quite a bit of discounted stuff for you there. Here are some of the best deals for casual sippers and connoisseurs alike that I've found so far.

Best Big Spring Sale deals on at-home coffee goods

If it’s time to upgrade your brew setup or drinkware, give these a shot. 

  • If you like to grind your own beans, the Shardor electric burr grinder is marked down to $33.99 (originally $39.99). A bit of advice: Before you pick one of these up, make sure you’re familiar with how to clean it so your coffee doesn’t start to taste bad. 

  • Keurig is having a lot of deals during this sale, like the K-Express single-serve coffee maker, which is on sale for $69.99 (originally$89.99). This is also the kind of machine you'll want to know how to clean regularly, because they can get pretty gross.

  • The Mueller drip coffee maker is on sale for $23.78 compared to the typical price of $34.99. This one lacks some higher-end features, like the ability to schedule batches for the following morning, but it's a cheap, solid pick if you need something simple.

  • This bag of Four Sigmatic coffee is an organic, half-caf blend that's usually a little spendy at $17.09. During the sale, it's down to $14.52, but be aware that it comes pre-ground. Given the lower caffeine amount, it might be a good bag to have on hand when you need a little afternoon pick-me-up, but still want to be able to get some sleep that night.

Best Big Spring Sales for coffee on the go

Busy bees, you are not forgotten. Whether brewing at home and taking a cup for the road or stopping by your local cafe, here are some deals on items you can use.

  • Grab a 20-ounce vacuum insulated travel cup for $9.62 instead of $13.99 so your coffee stays hot (or cold, depending on your preferences) while you're out and about. Reviewers say it holds more than the usual to-go mug and maintains temperature well. It also comes with a metal straw and a cleaning brush for when the aforementioned straw inevitably gets gross. 

  • CamelBak’s popular 16-ounce Horizon tumbler is also on sale, down to $17.26 from $22. Reviewers have been praising this camping mug for years.

  • If you prefer your coffee cold and like a fashionable but sustainable option to drink it from, Simple Modern’s insulated tumbler with lid and straw is $20.79 instead of $25.99. It’s chic and comes in multiple colors, but not all of them are included in the Big Spring Sale, so double-check the prices before you buy.

  • If you like a hefty cup of java, pick up a Seven Sparta car cup holder expander for $19.99 instead of $24.99. To see it in action, check out this review, which concludes that it’s a quality product that solves a very specific—but annoying—problem.

  • The JavaPresse manual coffee grinder is discounted from $46.99 to $27.98. This grinder is small and uses a manual crank, which makes it ideal for someone who’s particular about their coffee, even when they’re camping—or simply can’t stand the thought of skipping a cuppa during a power outage.

10 Ways to Update Your Porch or Patio on a Budget

Spring is upon those of us in the Northern hemisphere (even if it doesn't feel like it), and if we're lucky enough to have an outdoor space, we're probably thinking about sprucing it up. But whether you want to make your porch or patio more comfortable, or just give it a fresh new look to usher in the season, updates can be pricey. Luckily, there are a few things you can do, even if you don’t have the budget for a total overhaul, to spruce up the place and make your yard, deck, etc. that much better.

Add some lighting

If you have outdoor outlets or fixtures already, it’s simple to add some string lights ($35.99) or you can update your outdoor wall sconce ($42.65) with a new one. If you don’t have outdoor outlets, solar options will allow you to give your porch or patio a glow up. Adding a solar lantern (two for $23.99) or a set of fairy lights ($9.99) is as simple as finding a sunny spot in your outdoor area to set them up.

Lay down a rug

To make your space more comfortable for morning coffee or after-sprinkler lemonade in your bare feet, an outdoor rug ($28.95 for a 3-foot by 5-foot rug) is just the thing. You can also use a larger rug ($59.49 for an 8-foot by 10-foot rug) to delineate space for outdoor furniture and entertaining space. A good outdoor rug is waterproof and can be cleaned with a hose for convenience.

Hang shades or curtains

Hanging some curtains can help to create some shade and to make your space feel more dressed up. You can add weatherproof curtain panels ($13.29 per panel) by hanging some outdoor curtain rods ($17.99 for an expandable 66- to 120-inch rod). You can also choose to use roll-up shades ($49.98 for a 7-foot by 6-foot-tall panel) instead of a stiffer sun shade. Shades can also help to cut wind a little bit for a more comfortable outdoor dining experience.

Add a planter

Adding a large planter ($49.99) that you can plant a porch-sized tree ($44.00) in can give you a focal point and add some greenery to your patio or porch. Remember that if you plant a tree, you will either need one that’s suited to your local climate or one that can come indoors for winter. An alternative to one large planter is a few smaller ones (set of three for $58.03) to scatter some greenery ($9.99 each) or flowers ($19.47 each) through your space.

Make your furniture cozier

Porch furniture is a must for warm spring days, but to keep cozy when the weather is still a little chilly, you'll need reinforcements. Using some outdoor blankets ($15.99) along with some cushions ($49.99 for two) and pillows ($18.99 for four) can make your time outdoors in the spring a little warmer as well as prettier. If you have an uncovered patio, even if your textiles are waterproof, using a tarp or bringing pillows and blankets indoors when it rains will keep your furniture more comfortable without needing to wait for dry time.

Give your furniture a fresh coat

Outdoor furniture gets a lot of abuse. It’s exposed to sun, moisture, and lots of barbecue guests (if you’re lucky). If your furniture is solid but starting to show some wear, you can use paint to give it some new life. Painting metal furniture with spray paint ($6.19) is a fairly simple DIY, but you’ll likely need a drop cloth ($9.99) to contain overspray and a wire brush ($3.47) to prep the surface. If you have wooden furniture, you can also use acrylic paint ($34.98/gallon) to give it some protection as well. If you don’t want to paint your whole piece, you can opt for a color dipping treatment using acrylic or latex, or you can paint some accents instead.

Paint your floor

To freshen up a concrete floor or some old deck boards, a coat of paint can really do the trick. Using a stencil ($15.99) and some paint ($18.99), you can give your old concrete floor a pattern. For decking, you can opt for a paint color ($17.49) with added no-slip grip ($9.24) to make your porch safer as well as more colorful.

Get a bar cart

Whether it’s coffee or spirits you prefer, a little outdoor bar can go a long way to making your outdoor space more comfortable. Consider this bar cart ($39.99) for serving cocktails or lemonade, to elevate the porch or patio experience.

Include a fire feature

I love a fire feature for outdoor entertaining. You can choose to add even a small, pedestal-style fire feature ($99.99) for a little warm glow, or you can opt for a table-sized fire feature ($156.99). Remember that a fire feature needs to be kept at least three feet from flammable objects and you should observe all safety information from the manufacturer.

Or maybe a heater

When the mornings and evenings are still cooler, a patio heater is a great way to get your outdoor space going in spring. You can choose to use a small infrared heater ($55.99) that uses electricity for efficient energy use, or you can opt for a propane burning heater ($99.99). Make sure to follow all manufacturer safety instructions to avoid any possibility of fire.

The Hidden Benefits of a Robotic Lawn Mower

If you hate yard work, you might have dreamt of getting a robot to mow your lawn for you, saving you the hassle of once or twice per week mowing during the height of your lawn’s growing season. While the prospect of a robotic lawnmower might seem too good to be true, there are new models out that can mow your lawn—saving you time and, if you have a larger lawn and/or need to mow frequently, money in fuel costs over the long term.

How do robotic mowers work?

The basic premise of a robotic lawn mower is that it will do to your grass what a Roomba does indoors to your floors. While some models operate using a perimeter wire and are set to travel until they come into contact with it and then turn, eventually covering the whole lawn, newer models like Husqvarna Automower (currently $1,499.99) use GPS and sensors to operate the mower on a planned path for your yard. Mowers that use a programmable path for optimal efficiency are more likely to save money in the long run.

Save short-term on fuel

The main savings from using a robotic mower over a traditional mower is in the cost of fuel. Because robotic mowers run on batteries that are recharged with household electricity, they use much less fuel than riding mowers or walk-behind models. In a study commissioned by Stihl, robotic lawnmowers performed better than their traditional counterparts when mowing took place twice a week. According to the study, a traditional mower uses about $25 in fuel to mow once per week for a growing season and $50 to mow twice per week for a growing season; a robotic mower uses about $41 in fuel for a twice weekly mow per season.

Save on labor costs

If you’re deciding between using a robotic mower or a lawn care service, the robotic mower is the more cost effective option, hands down. To hire a service to mow your lawn, it costs between $50 and $200 per acre. A robotic lawn mower can mow an acre for an entire cutting season for just $41—a significant savings.

Save on lifetime costs for fuel and maintenance

Overall, the long-term savings associated with using a robotic mower are the real draw. While a good robotic mower for a residential lawn can cost between $1,000 and $1,500 to buy, a battery-powered push mower comes in at around $380. So the initial cost difference is substantial. But in a study from the International Journal of Sustainable Engineering that compared the total cost to operate over 10 years of several types of mowers, the programmable robotic mower that had an optimal path designed for it was less than half the cost of its closest competitor, the gas-powered riding mower. The total lifetime operating costs for 10 years of use for the robotic mower were about $6000, while the gas-powered riding mower came in at about $14,000. Importantly, the random-walk style of robotic lawnmower with no optimal path set was the most expensive mower, costing about $23,000 to operate for 10 years.

Other advantages of robotic mowers

Robotic mowers are cheaper over time than regular mowers if you need to mow frequently. In addition to being cheaper, a robotic mower will save you time (if you normally mow your grass yourself). Robot lawn mowers are designed to mulch grass clippings back into your yard automatically, making your grass healthier as well as eliminating clipping waste. Since they don’t burn fossil fuels, robotic mowers produce fewer emissions than their traditional counterparts. They’re also significantly quieter than regular mowers since the blades are smaller and they don’t have internal combustion engines.

Disadvantages of robotic mowers

Robotic mowers are a big upfront cost and for folks who don’t need to mow frequently, they might not be cost-saving. In addition to the cost, they need a charger to be plugged in outdoors where the mower can dock, so having a place in your yard to secure the mower and charger when you’re not home is key. If you live in an area where yard equipment can be a target for thieves, your mowing robot will need an enclosure of some kind with an outlet to keep it secure. Robotic mowers often have a limit to the slope they can operate on, so they won’t work in some yards that have hills or uneven terrain.

Future prospects

While robotic mowers aren’t ideal for everyone now because of their price and terrain limitations, as the technology develops, the price will likely fall, and the more efficient optimal path mowers will likely become more affordable. Also, the development of better sensors and better travel equipment will likely allow robotic mowers to move over increasingly uneven yards. As battery technology improves, the rechargeable batteries that robotic mowers use will likely become more efficient and cheaper as well.

The Six Ways You Need to Maintain Your Chimney

Chimneys are one of those parts of the house that are so prevalent they’re invisible—you see them all the time, and probably rarely think about them. Even if you have one in your own home, if you don’t have a fireplace you might assume that your chimney is a useless artifact poking up out of your house—but that old chimney might still be serving a purpose. Even without a fireplace, your chimney is very likely serving as ventilation for the house, letting dangerous gases from your furnace, water heater, or other infrastructure escape the house instead of killing you.

Whether that old chimney on your roof is in use or not, it’s a huge mistake to ignore it. Like everything else in your house, your chimney needs to be properly maintained, even if it’s no longer in use. There’s one obvious reason why: The cost to remove or replace a chimney is steep: About $4,100 on average, and sometimes more than $6,000. Rebuilding instead of removing will still run you anywhere from $1,000 to $10,000 depending on its size and condition. Ignoring your chimney is an easy way to damage your roof and other areas of your house—sometimes disastrously.

Inspect it

Unless you’re a chimney expert yourself, you should have your chimney inspected on a regular basis—annually, if you can. You’ll want to hire someone certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA), who will check out the structural integrity of your chimney, check to see if it’s clogged with debris or flammable residue like creosote, and ensure that it’s still performing its functions properly.

Sweep it

If the words “chimney sweep” conjures up visions of Dick Van Dyke in Mary Poppins, you might be surprised to learn it is very much still a thriving profession. “Sweeping” a chimney is basically cleaning it out—over time, every chimney gets clogged up with ash, debris, and other substances. Even if you don’t have a fireplace, your chimney can become clogged up over time, and probably needs a good cleanout.

If you schedule an annual inspection of your chimney, the company probably includes a sweeping service, or offers it at a small additional cost.

Cap it

Whether your chimney is in constant use or you were recently surprised to discover you have one, it should be capped. A chimney cap is a cover that is attached to the top of your chimney to prevent rain and snow from pouring down into it, damaging the interior. Some also have mesh screens incorporated to prevent animals and birds from building nests in there or migrating down into your walls. They’re not particularly expensive—this one from Master Flow is less than $60—but they can save you a ton of money and stress in the long run. If you’re somewhat handy and follow proper safety precautions when working on a roof, installing a chimney cap is a fairly straightforward DIY job.

Seal it

Your chimney pops up out of your roof, so it gets hit with all the weather and rain. Over time, water penetrating the brick and mortar will inflict some serious damage, so it’s a good idea to seal it against water intrusion using a penetrating water repellent product. This is an easy and cheap job that can help preserve your chimney structure so it doesn’t crumble and magically transform into an expensive repair.

Line it

A chimney liner is fitted inside your chimney, made of metal, clay, or a concrete-like mixture that’s poured into the chimney to set in place. It can serve two vital purposes: protecting the interior of your chimney from corrosion and damage, and making your chimney more efficient. If your chimney is too large (older chimneys sized for old-school furnaces or fireplaces can be way too big for a modern, more efficient furnace, for example), the gas outflow can cause condensation and moisture inside the chimney, which can damage masonry and other materials. A liner can “resize” the chimney so that doesn’t happen, while also protecting those materials.

Close it

If you are absolutely sure you don’t use that chimney for anything—furnace outgassing, ventilation, etc.—but you don’t want to go through the trouble and expense of removing it, you might consider closing it up entirely. This involves sealing it up at the top and bottom so that there’s no chance of water intrusion or other problems. Keep in mind you’ll still need to maintain the structure of your chimney with inspections, capping, and water sealing if you choose to do this.

Five Surprising Ways You Can Use Plasti Dip Around the House

Plasti Dip is a rubbery coating made to bond to most surfaces, and is commonly used on handles for tools. It’s meant to stand up to outdoor applications and extreme temperatures, and it can extend the life of metal surfaces by protecting them from moisture. In addition to adding some color, there are lots of other practical uses for Plasti dip. Here are a few of my favorites.

Tool handles

By far the most common application for Plasti Dip is tool handles. For this application, using the traditional dip container of Plasti Dip to coat tool handles is the best approach. In addition to adding color, Plasti Dip is an insulator against electricity and heat, making metal tools safer and more comfortable to use. For a smooth finish, you should set up a way to hold your tools in place while the handles dry. For this step, you can use a clamp or even a clothesline with some clips.

Knobs

Knobs on equipment like adjustable-height tables, tool accessories, and clamps can all be coated with Plasti Dip to make them more comfortable to use. You can also use Plasti Dip on knobs for cabinet hardware, doorknobs, and drawer pulls to give an older knob some new life or to make them easier to grip. For best results, take the handles completely off and dip them without submerging the hardware that attaches them to your furniture or equipment. Steer clear of applying Plasti Dip to any moving parts or to the surfaces of screws and bolts.

Car parts

To use Plasti Dip successfully on car parts, you will need the rattle can, spray-on type to cover the areas you want to target. You can also choose to use a paint sprayer with the type of Plasti Dip meant for sprayers for larger areas, although applying this type of paint does take some practice to get it right. For smaller areas, like splash guards inside your wheel well or rims, you can use a spray can after cleaning the surface thoroughly with soapy water and masking off the surrounding areas that you don’t want to get paint on. Plasti Dip can help to protect the undercarriage of your vehicle from rust, and it can also improve the look of your rims. For a more professional-looking finish, you can choose an automotive kit that comes with a specialized spray nozzle and a glossy finish spray.

Rugs

To give the bottom of your carpet a non-slip coating, you can use super grip Plasti Dip spray. Prep the surface by vacuuming the rug and use a drop cloth outdoors to apply the coating. Make sure to tape off the edges of your rug as well as any tassels to avoid accidentally spraying them. Once the coating is dry, your rug will no longer slide about, preventing tripping and slipping accidents.

Safety glass

For use on almost any type of glass, from jelly jars to windows, clear Plasti Dip can be applied for a safety coating. In addition to providing a little bit of resistance to breakage for glass bottles, a Plasti Dip coating will hold shards of glass together in the event the glass is broken, reducing the danger. Applying Plasti Dip to glass needs proper ventilation and masking, but you should also make sure that the glass can dry in a fairly low wind environment to get the best possible finish. Be aware that using Plasti Dip to coat glass, even if it’s clear, will at least partially obscure the glass—it isn’t a fully transparent layer.

The Easiest Ways to Make Your Home Network More Secure

While there’s no foolproof method for keeping everything on a wireless network completely secure, there are some things you can do to make it safer. In addition to setting up devices that don’t depend on a wireless network, you can use a few other tools to discourage hacking and keep your wireless network more private. Taking a few practical steps can give you some peace of mind when using your home security system or your wifi network.

Use a wired connection to prevent jammers

Wireless cameras for home security are convenient and cost-effective, but it’s a good idea to include some devices that don’t depend on a wireless network—just in case. Because any wireless network is vulnerable to jammers, using devices that don't use a wireless signal is a good backup measure to take. These can be as simple as window alarms, or can be as extensive as a wired security camera system that records to a DVR. For most people, one or two wired cameras at key entry points like the front and back doors or focused on a garage entrance is sufficient.

In addition to hardwired security devices, you can also choose to use an ethernet internet connection with a firewall to prevent sensitive information on your home computer from being accessed without physically connecting to your network. Ethernet is a wired internet option that is often faster and less glitchy than a wireless connection, and it has the added benefit of being resistant to jamming and hacking as well.

Change your frequency frequently to prevent jammers

Wifi jammers work by interrupting a particular signal frequency. Changing the frequency that your network operates at can help to prevent jammers from latching onto your signal. Frequency-hopping spread spectrum devices are an option that will automatically change the frequency of your wifi signal, making it more difficult to use an RF jammer to disrupt the wifi connection to your home security devices. While FHSS is considered an older, outdated technology for many wifi devices because more modern wifi protections are geared to data protection, it's useful for preventing jamming attacks. Consumer Reports tested several home security systems for jamming resistance, and there are a few devices that tested well for resistance to frequency jamming including the Honeywell Smart Home Security System. If you're considering a home security upgrade, you should look for devices that use FHSS technology or a similar frequency changing feature to deter jamming attempts.

Create unique passwords

When you set up your home wireless network, your router likely comes with a password for initial access. Additionally, the administrative password is also generated by the manufacturer as a way to access the settings on your router. These passwords are notoriously easy to discover and are not intended to be a long term solution for network security. Create a password that’s different from the one that came with your device and that also doesn’t contain things like birthdays, addresses, or important dates that could be easily discoverable to strangers.

Create a new name for your network

When you install a new wireless networking device, it likely has a name it was given by the manufacturer. This is a placeholder so that you can set up your network, but you should come up with your own name that isn’t associated with your name or address once you activate it. This will help make it more difficult to find and break into your wireless network.

Turn off remote access controls

Most routers have the option to change settings remotely, allowing you to manage device permissions and settings from a computer not hardwired to the device. In addition, many routers also offer universal plug and play, letting any device that’s plugged into the router access its settings without using a password and WPS (wifi protected setup), allowing you to press a button on your modem for instant connection without entering a password. While all of these features can be convenient, they’re also great ways for someone looking for valuable data or access to security devices to access your network without your knowledge. Disabling these features can help make your wireless network more secure.

Use encryption

Encrypting your network is as simple on newer routers as selecting WPA 3 personal or WPA 2 personal on your network settings. Older routers don’t have these options and are much less secure than newer ones as a result. Using an outdated router makes your network less secure because they aren’t capable of higher level encryption.

Don’t stay logged in

While it’s convenient to stay logged in to your wifi administrator account, you should log out once you’re done setting it up. That’s because anyone who has access to your device—even remotely—can use the administrator account to change your wifi settings and access connected devices including your home security system. If you’re logged out, a would-be hacker needs your password to get into your wifi settings.

Use your firewall

One default setting that your router usually comes with is actually good to leave the way it is, and that’s the firewall. Most routers come with a firewall that’s already switched on to help protect your wi-fi network and connected devices. You should check to make sure it’s on to improve the security of your wireless network.

Your Home Might Need External Insulation, Too

A home that’s warm and cozy in the winter and cool in the summer is a place you can relax—a refuge. A home that’s too hot or too cold all the time will never be comfortable, and can be a drain on your pocketbook: Up to 70% of the energy you pay for in your home is used to heat or cool it, and heating your house likely accounts for about 30% of your utility bills.

How well your home is insulated has a huge impact on its energy efficiency, and on your monthly bills. Adding more insulation to your home can cut heating and cooling costs by an average of 15%, making it a no-brainer home improvement project. Typically homeowners focus on adding insulation inside the house (in the attic or inside the walls), but there’s another strategy to make your home even more energy efficient and comfortable: adding insulation to the exterior of your home.

Upping the R-value

Considering exterior insulation makes sense if you’re going to be removing or adding siding or cladding to the house; the exterior of the home will be exposed anyway, making it the ideal opportunity to improve your home’s overall insulation economically.

Exterior insulation is like putting a sweater on your house, creating an additional barrier to heat loss or gain. It’s a straightforward concept: Once your home’s exterior walls are exposed, you can affix a material like rigid foam insulation or mineral wool batts to the walls, seal it, then cover it with the siding or cladding of your choice. If your home is always chilly in winter or too warm in summer, adding this extra layer of insulation can potentially offer a dramatic improvement.

The benefits depend on the R-value you’re adding, and the climate zone you live in. If you live in Nebraska, for example, you’re in Climate Zone 5, and if your home has 2x6 exterior walls, you’re shooting for an R-value of 19-21. R-values are additive, so any insulation you add to the outside of your house will improve its overall R-value—and a single inch of foam insulation can increase the R-value of your home by 5. If your home already has an R-value of 20, that would represent a 20% increase.

What to consider

One huge benefit to adding insulation to the outside of your home is that you can avoid disruption inside the house. You won’t need to drill holes in your walls or remove the drywall entirely. All the mess and trouble stays outside while the interior of your home remains clean and undisturbed. If you are replacing your siding or cladding anyway, the project shouldn't add to the disruption at all.

There are a few things to consider before you jump into adding exterior insulation, however:

  • Cost. The cost of adding insulation to a siding project will depend on how much wall you need to insulate. For example, a 4x8 polyisocyanurate board from Johns Manville costs about $26, so you can measure the square footage of your exterior walls to get an idea of how much the materials will cost. But you also have to factor in complexities like windows, soffits, and other quirks that can add or subtract materials. And then there are the labor costs of installing it, which will vary greatly; you can expect to add a few thousand bucks to a siding project by including exterior insulation.

  • Thickness. Adding insulation means everything else gets bumped out by a few inches, which can have an impact on things like trim pieces around window wells or exterior outlet boxes. There are plenty of products that can compensate for these complications, but you’ll want to be sure that your contractor is aware of potential issues and has a plan to address them.

  • Moisture. Adding insulation between your siding and the framing of your home can improve the moisture infiltration, because it adds an extra gap between the surface and the interior. However, if you use a rigid foam board that has a vapor barrier of some kind on the outside, this can cause problems because you’ll be sandwiching the insulation between two vapor barriers, trapping moisture below the siding. That’s why it’s vital that you consult with an expert when choosing insulation materials for a project like this.

If you’re already going to be removing the siding or other cladding from your home, taking the opportunity to add some exterior insulation can make a big difference in the comfort level of your house—and the size of your utility bills, all without a lot of mess inside.

Build Your Own Tiny Backyard Wildlife Pond

Par : Emily Long

If you're looking for your next garden project and want something low maintenance that's also beneficial for the entire ecosystem, consider building a tiny wildlife pond.

Backyard ponds have a handful of ecological benefits, but even if you don't have space for a full-sized water feature, you can still increase the diversity of beneficial insects, amphibians, and native wildlife in your garden. Tiny ponds can attract and support dragonflies, damselflies, bees, frogs, birds, and more. They also don't require a pump, a filtration system, or complicated upkeep—the plants and wildlife just do their natural thing over time, ideally keeping everything in check on their own.

How to create a tiny wildlife pond

A mini wildlife pond requires only a few materials and very little maintenance. Here's what you'll need:

  • A watertight container, such as plastic liner, bin, or bucket, though you can also use a wash bin, barrel, or old sink

  • Gravel to line the bottom of the container

  • Bricks, pebbles, and stones to create surfaces at varying depths

  • Native pond plants

  • Aquatic pots

  • Rainwater

Note that when selecting plants for your pond, you'll need several types to keep your pond's ecosystem healthy and balanced. Submerged plants live at the bottom of the pond, emergent plants have their roots submerged in shallow water, and floating plants, well, float. Search for native pond or water plants specific to your area (do not just pick things from your yard or garden). Some emergent plants will do best in aquatic baskets, and loose submerged plants can be bundled, tied, and weighted to the bottom of your pond container.

Select a spot in your yard or garden that gets good light—it should not be full sun or full shade. You can either dig a hole and place your container in the ground or let it sit on the surface. Add gravel or small rocks to the bottom of the container, then place bricks and rocks of varying heights around the edges to create surfaces for plants to sit and birds and insects to land. If your container isn't in the ground, add a ramp on the outside so frogs and other wildlife can easily climb in and out. Next, fill your pond with rainwater and start planting. If you have to use tap water, wait several days before adding any plants so chemicals can dissipate.

For a visual demonstration, and some inspiration, Instagram user Martha @marfskitchengarden demonstrates how to build and maintain a tiny wildlife pond.

Once your pond has been planted, all you have to do is wait. The tiny ecosystem will develop on its own—you don't need to introduce frogs, fish, or other wildlife. Simply check on it regularly to top off the water (again, use collected rainwater), especially if you live in a dry climate, and remove excess debris. If winter brings freezing temperatures, you may need to bring the pond inside, but otherwise it can survive year-round.

The Best Tools for Surviving Allergy Season

Allergy season is right around the corner, and if you’re someone who’s affected by that, you likely don’t need to be told. There are some effective tools out there that can help you through it, though, so maybe this is the year you stock up and show pollen what you’re made of (or at least what you’re willing to buy to take it on).  

Best household products for allergy season

First, you need to get your home in order so you’re not suffering when you’re in your place of solitude. These should help. 

  • Humidifiers moisten the air and improve the health of your airways, which makes them a valuable source of comfort when your nose and throat are scratchy. The one I use is the Hey Dewy Wellness Humidifier ($99.95), which is prettier than others on the market (my preference) but also has a radius of 500 square feet and a 1.54-liter capacity, meaning it’ll moisten up a big room. 

  • You’ll also need an air purifier. PC Mag recommends the Dyson Cool TP07 ($605). It’s pricey, but it’s also a Dyson, which signifies quality, and PC Mag highlights its air quality measurements, voice control support, and fully sealed HEPA 13 enclosure. I use a cheaper one, the GermGuardian ($79.99), and can confirm it’s quiet and, as far as I can tell, effective in its goal of yanking 99.97% of germs, dust, and pollen from the air. 

  • Grab some AllerEase pillow protectors ($13.28 for two), which are made of tightly woven fabric designed to stop household particles from collecting in your pillow—and making you sneeze and cough. Reviewers say it actually works.

  • Finally, you need a vacuum that can actually handle the kinds of particles that are affecting you. According to Health, the best vacuum for allergy sufferers is the Kenmore Pop-N-Go ($350) because of how effectively it sucks up debris and dog hair. 

Best personal use products for allergy season

Getting your home under control is one thing, but managing yourself is another. These tools will give some personal relief. 

  • Try a Vicks personal steam inhaler ($42.98) for fast, direct sinus relief when you’re stuffy. Hold it to your nose for a blast of warm mist designed to combat allergies. You can also use it with Vicks VapoPads for extra sinus-clearing power. 

  • Allergy sufferers and pros regularly compare tips on forums, and one thing that always crops up is nasal sprays. Flonase is a well-respected brand, and you can get a 60-spray device for $14.51. Looking for a non-medicated option? Amazon Basic Care has saline nasal moisturizing spray ($3.19) that can also help you clear out some gunk.

  • Itchy, watery eyes are also a major pain, but you can try a gel eye mask to relieve some orbital pressure and depuff those bad boys. Consider the Consgiji set ($11.99), which has one mask with eye holes and one without, so you can choose your coverage.

The Best Solar Generators You Can Buy Right Now

Whether you're hoping to ride out the next blackout in style and comfort, play video games in the middle of the woods, or live an off-the-grid lifestyle, a solar generator is becoming a modern must-have. They’re lighter and more mobile than gas generators, and you don’t need to keep a supply of degrading gasoline on hand to power them.

You have a lot of options for solar generators, and choosing the best one for you involves considering factors like capacity, weight, output and input options, and charging time and efficiency. But above all of those factors, your choice will come down to how you intend to use it. Whatever you buy, the solar generators on the market right now are generally better options than what was available just a few years ago—and the following are some of the best, based on different use cases.

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Credit: Product image courtesy of Amazon

Jackery Explorer 1000

Great for: Flexible use

With a capacity of 1002 watt-hours and the potential to charge at 200 watts for relatively fast recharges, the Jackery Explorer 1000 has enough juice to be a great short-term backup generator for the house. It has three AC outlets, a DC outlet, two USB A and two USB C outlets, so it’s capable of powering up to eight things at once. That 1000-watt output means it could run your fridge for a day or so without needing to be re-charged (longer if it’s hooked up to solar panels simultaneously), so it’s a workable solution for getting through a blackout without spoiled food.

At the same time, the Explorer 1000 weighs just 25 pounds—which isn’t exactly light, but makes it portable enough that it’s also a good solution for outdoor uses like camping or just powering your patio. It’s got a durable (and fireproof) casing designed to take a little punishment, too, so this is a solar generator that can sit at home in case of emergencies or come with you on your next road trip. The interface isn’t exactly rich, however, providing just the bare minimum of information, and the lack of a DC input isn’t ideal.

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Credit: Product image courtesy of Amazon

Goal Zero Yeti 1500X

Great for: Off-grid use

The Goal Zero Yeti 1500X can charge at a 600-watt clip, and has a 1,500+ watt capacity, making it an ideal choice if you’re going to be far away from a wall outlet for a while. It can put out enough juice to run a camper, and if you invest in the panels to get that full input, it can recharge in just a few hours.

The 1500X is also equipped to integrate into your house so it can be a true home backup unit, and it can even charge off your car’s alternator, so you can top it off while you’re traveling without having to ziptie your solar panels to the roof. It’s also built with an incredibly tough exterior, making it a perfect choice if you’re going to be living in relatively rough conditions but want to be able to run a small army of gadgets and appliances while you’re out there.

It’s a little confusing to navigate the interface, but the availability of a smartphone app helps a little in that department. If you’re routinely off the grid, this is your best choice.

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Credit: Product image courtesy of Amazon

EcoFlow Delta 2

Great for: Blackouts

If your main concern in this life is what happens when the power goes off, the EcoFow Delta is a great choice. With 1000 watt-hours of output (the Delta 2 Max model offers 2000), you’ll never need to break out the candles again, because you’ll have enough power to light up the house and run many of your appliances for the duration. And if the blackout lasts longer than expected, it can charge up in a few hours in full sun.

It’s heavy (about 50 pounds), so you’re not lugging this one around on your camping trips, but its power, fast charging time, and ease of hooking into your home’s electrical panel (if you have a transfer switch installed) make it ideal for those occasional emergencies. Plus, it’s easily expandable with batteries chained together, which can increase your power output to 3000 watt-hours if you need it.

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Credit: Product image courtesy of Amazon

Bluetti AC200Max

Great for: House backup

If you’re thinking beyond blackouts and want a whole-house solution that can keep everything humming any time you lose the grid, the Bluetti AC200Max is an ideal choice. It can punch into a transfer switch, making it easy to jump over to battery power in a pinch without having to run extension cords all over the place, and it starts with 2200 watt-hours of power—but it’s expandable to a whopping 8000 watt-hours by chaining in some batteries. It’s pricey with all those batteries, but that kind of power means you can run your whole house off of the AC200Max for a couple of days.

The whole system is controllable via an app, and it offers 16 outlets so you won’t have to agonize over what gets powered during a storm. It can take a long time to charge up if you go for the full capacity, but you can use solar panels simultaneously with an outlet to get up to 1400 watt-hours of charge and cut the charging time down considerably.

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Credit: Product image courtesy of Amazon

Anker SOLIX C1000

Great for: Small spaces

Maybe you want a solar generator for emergencies, but you live in a shoebox-sized apartment, and many solar generators are big enough to be problematic for storage. The Anker SOLIX C1000 provides solid power (1000 watt-hours or so) in a very small footprint, which means it’s easy to store when not in use.

A great feature that makes it a good choice for a home generator is the LED light bar, which provides quick emergency lighting. If you’ve ever been surprised by a blackout and found yourself stumbling around in the dark, you know that having an easy source of light is a very good thing. It also charges up exceptionally quickly—the SOLIX C1000 can reach full capacity in an hour in strong sunlight or when plugged in. That means if your blackout situation lasts more than a day you should be able to charge the battery back up during the daylight hours without much trouble, making it a great choice for a small place.

Solar generators are getting more powerful, more sophisticated, and more necessary every day. Buy one of the best solar generators available and sleep easy tonight.

You Can Get a Lifetime Subscription to Plantum on Sale for $15 Right Now

You can get a lifetime subscription to Plantum on sale for $14.97 right now (reg. $60) until March 17. Plantum is an AI-powered plant identification and care app available for iOS devices with iOS 13 or higher. It helps identify, diagnose, and care for over 33,000 different plant species, and it's both an identification tool and a garden management app. It offers guidance on soil selection, watering schedules, fertilizing, and temperature conditions, as well as reminders for when to water a plant, rotate it, and run triage. Plantum also helps diagnose what's wrong with plants and recommends treatments.

You can get a lifetime subscription to Plantum on sale for $14.97 right now (reg. $60) until March 17 at 11:59 p.m. PT, though prices can change at any time.

What to Do if the Police Seize Your Cash or Property

There’s nothing more nerve-wracking than being pulled over by a police car, or answering the door to find the police on your front porch. Even if you’ve done nothing wrong and have never broken a law in your life, interactions with suspicious law enforcement officers are incredibly stressful. You’re supposedly innocent until proven guilty, but in these situations, the cops don't always act like it.

But that stressful situation can become a real nightmare if the police seize your property. Whether it’s cash you’re bringing to the bank, your car, or other valuables you thought were safe on your person, it’s not uncommon for the police to seize your property during an encounter—even if you’re not ultiamtely charged with a crime. Worse, the cops can often legally keep your property and cash, again, even if you’re never charged with any crime, or are later found to be not guilty.

Civil asset forfeiture

In most of these encounters, the police rely on something called civil asset forfeiture. Initially designed as a tool to deprive drug dealers and organized crime figures of their ill-gotten gains, these laws empower the police to seize cash and property if they suspect it’s involved in a criminal enterprise—but because this is a civil action and not a criminal one, the burden of proof is much lower. In a weird twist of the law, it’s the property itself that is the subject of a lawsuit from the government—not a criminal charge against you. That’s how you can go free without being charged, but your property remains seized.

This is big business for many police departments—the Institute for Justice estimates that close to $70 billion has been seized by police in the last few decades. Laws governing civil asset forfeiture vary wildly across the country, but even when states have laws on the books that require convictions or limit seizures to values over a certain threshold, they often have too many loopholes to be truly effective. For example, New Jersey technically requires a criminal conviction for police to keep assets valued at or below $10,000, or less than $1,000 in cash. But this leaves innocent people stuck with having to prove their innocence in court as opposed to the state having to prove their guilt—and the police still have a huge incentive to seize property, because they can keep 100% of it if they secure a conviction.

Local police can also evade state laws in many cases by using a program called “Equitable Sharing,” which transfers the jurisdiction of the seizure to the federal government. This often causes delays for people trying to get their money back, as they have to figure out where to sue—delays that sometimes mean they miss legal filing deadlines. After a period of time, the federal government will return as much as 80% of the money to the local police department.

There are plenty of nightmare stories of people who had cash or property seized by police and spent years trying to get it back—and even when they win, they usually don’t get it back with interest, or their legal fees covered, despite being completely innocent of any crime. This is because federal law requires individuals to “substantially prevail” in court—i.e., win their lawsuit—to get legal fees covered. If it looks like you might actually win your case, the local government will often return the initially seized property in order to avoid that, leaving you with no interest and lots of legal bills for your troubles.

The Supreme Court is currently deliberating a case that could change how civil forfeiture works in the U.S., but hasn’t yet rendered a decision. Until it does, the practice goes on.

What to do if police seize your property

So you were pulled over, or the police executed a warrant at your residence, and your cash or valuables were seized. You were not charged with a crime, but your property wasn’t immediately returned. What can you do? Be prepared for a long fight, because until the Supreme Court (maybe) takes action, the odds remain stacked against you.

But here’s what you need to do:

  • Take notes. Record as much information as you can at the moment of seizure. Take photos and video. Make a note of the names of the officers involved, along with badge numbers and the precise time that everything happens. Also ask the officers what their justification for the seizure is—they don’t need much, and just about everything you do can be considered a sign of illegal activity, including having a large amount of cash on you in the first place.

  • Get a receipt. No matter the circumstances behind the seizure, the police are obligated to provide you with a receipt that details the property and money seized from you. Make sure you get one before you part ways, and check that it’s accurate.

  • Don’t sign a waiver. The police often encourage or pressure you to “disavow” cash or other property by signing a waiver that states it isn’t yours and you don’t know anything about it, which eliminates your claim to it. Often people are presented with the choice between spending hours being searched and questioned, or signing a waiver and being released immediately. Don’t do it—signing a waiver like that might set you free in the short term, but it will complicate your efforts to get your property back later.

  • Act immediately. Once you’ve been released, don’t waste time. Contact the local county courthouse to find out how you can petition for the return of your property, and to determine who has jurisdiction over the seizure. You might consider seeking legal advice, but keep in mind that paying for a lawyer might mean getting your money back is a Pyrrhic victory at best.

These Makita Tools Are on Sale for up to 70% Off Right Now

Beginning a cordless tool kit or updating your existing one can be pricey. Even if you've got a good set going, batteries tend to be expensive, and need to be replaced after a while to keep your tools running well. Getting good-quality tools is important, though—a cheap set won't last and will just end up costing you in the long run. Here are a few deals from Makita so building out your tool kit won’t break the bank.

Batteries and chargers

The Makita 18V LXT Lithium-Ion Battery and Rapid Optimum Charger kit is on sale for $148.80 right now, 70% off its usual price. The set is a good deal if you need new batteries for your existing cordless set or if you want to update your existing set. It comes with a rapid charger that will charge batteries in 45 minutes, two 18 volt batteries and a tool bag.

Saws

For a good cordless tool kit, you’ll need a circular saw and a jigsaw. The Makita Rear Handle 7-1/4" Circular Saw is on sale right now for $121.42, 68% off its usual price. It’s a bare tool, so it doesn’t come with batteries or blades, but it’s a good deal if you already have a Makita battery set. The Makita cordless jigsaw is on sale for $114.95, 60% off its regular price. This is also a bare tool package, so you’ll need 18-volt Makita batteries for it to work.

Drills and drivers

A good quality drill and driver set is central to a cordless tool set. The Makita Sub Compact Impact Driver is on sale for $86.82, 57% off its normal price, and the Makita ⅜” 12 volt impact wrench is on sale for $57.99, 65% off its regular price. The sub compact impact driver is good for getting into tight spaces since it’s a little smaller than the regular impact driver. Both the driver and the impact wrench are bare-tool-only packages, so you’ll need batteries to use them. The Makita impact driver and drill kit is on sale for $347.69, 54% off its usual price. The kit comes with a drill, impact driver, charger, two batteries and a tool bag, so it’s a good deal for starting a cordless kit.

Bits and accessories

For adding to your kit, or for expendables like bits and blades that will need to be replaced over time, Makita has included some accessories in its sale. A two-pack of Impactx T27 Torx 2″ Power Bits is on sale for $3.49, 50% off its usual price. The bits are designed to drive torx screws with an impact driver, so keep that in mind. The Makita 14” contractor tool bag is on sale for $15.99, 66% off its usual price. It has a shoulder strap and a handy tape measure pocket. The Makita Outdoor Adventure LED flashlight is on sale for $43.90, 49% off its regular price, and it’s perfect for camping or for a vehicle emergency kit. The flashlight has a 160 lumen output with a rotating head so you can set it up as a lantern or use it as a handheld flashlight. The Makita ratchet and bit set comes with 46 bits and a hand held ratchet driver and it’s on sale for $24.20, 43% off its regular price.

The Weirdest Side Hustles That Can Make You Real Money

Whether the rise of the side hustle is evidence of the can-do American spirit or the decline of the American Dream (why not both?), a lot of folks need one. Not quite a second (or third) job, but more than a hobby, a side hustle is a way to turn free time and sweat equity into cash, and maybe have a little fun at the same time.

Most side hustles aren’t all that exciting—delivering food or driving for Uber may offer the occasional adventure, but are typically about as boring as a full-time gig. But there are some seriously weird side hustles out there, the sort of side gigs that make you wonder about the state of modern civilization—but that offer real, actual American currency, sometimes a surprisingly high amount of it. While these side hustles might seem bizarre at first glance, they offer a legitimate opportunity to earn some extra cash while simultaneously providing you with all the party small-talk material you’ll ever need.

Pooper scooper

People have dogs. Those dogs poop. A lot. While many folks take their dogs out for walks, some people just let their dogs run loose in their backyards, and the poop can, er, pile up. Or, sometimes, people discover that stray dogs are using their backyards as a toilet, and they would rather anyone else come and deal with all the poop. And that’s where you come in: You can earn around $50 an hour doing this once you get enough customers. And it’s actually an easy business to start—you don’t need any special equipment, and you can get started just by contacting your neighbors and offering your services.

It’s worth it to do some research to see if anyone else is in your area offering pooper scooper services. There are companies like DoodyCalls that do this, so you might consider getting a part-time job with a company, or just check their pricing to ensure you’ll be competitive.

Baby gear rental

Do you have a bunch of old baby stuff that your kids have outgrown? You can donate it, sure, or offer it to friends and family who are just starting their families. Or you can monetize it by renting it out to folks.

The need here is mainly for families who are traveling: They’re going to be in your area for a short period of time, and it’s easier and cheaper to rent cribs, toys, and other baby stuff than to transport their own or buy a bunch of temporary stuff. Companies like BabyQuip and TravelingBaby let you sign up to be an affiliate independent contractor. When someone in your area needs baby stuff, you’re contacted, deliver the stuff to them, then pick it up when they’re done. The money obviously varies depending on volume, but TravelingBaby says you can earn as much as $1,200 a month doing this. Even if it’s much less, you’re monetizing stuff you no longer use, so it’s a win.

Friend services

It’s something a lot of adults discover to their dismay: Being a grown-up can be incredibly lonely. But that yawning chasm of loneliness is an opportunity, because that means people will pay you to be their friend or to come and cuddle with them. To be clear, these are both explicitly platonic arrangements: You get paid to hang out with someone or to engage in nonsexual physical contact just to provide some comfort. RentAFriend says you can earn “up to” $50 an hour, though they also say that renting a friend starts at just $10 an hour, with friends offering “special skills” or expertise costing more. Still, getting paid to hang out with someone isn’t bad work. Cuddling, which involves physical contact, can earn more money—as much as $150 an hour.

Sell your underwear

There is income potential in your used, worn, and absolutely not laundered underwear, socks, and other intimate items of clothing. All Things Worn and Male Things Worn are two marketplaces where you can list your unwashed knickers for profit. Prices are up to you (though All Things Worn provides a helpful list of suggested prices), but turning old, used underwear and other clothing into cash is a lot better than just throwing them away or wasting your time and money washing them.

Sell your hair

If you’ve got healthy, undyed, and relatively long hair, you can sell it. Best of all, it’s a renewable resource—you can sell a foot of your hair, wait a few months, then repeat the process. You can get anywhere from $100 to $1,000 for your hair depending on several factors, which isn’t bad, especially if you were planning to cut it all off, anyway.

Line standing

It’s often said that the main benefit of being rich is time: You can pay people to do things for you, which leaves you more time to do the things you actually want to do. And for a lot of rich folks one of the things they definitely don’t want to do is stand in line with the plebes waiting for concert tickets, fresh cronuts, or limited edition sneakers for their collection.

That’s where you, a mobile physical object capable of handling basic transactions, come in. Get paid to stand in line for your economic betters. Companies like Same Ole Line Dudes need employees, and sites like TaskRabbit have explicit listings for line standers. Typically, you can make about $25 an hour for ... waiting.

Virtual juror

Everyone groans when they get that jury duty summons in the mail—but you can make some decent side money by serving as a virtual juror. Law firms and marketing companies conduct a lot of mock trials as part of their research and case prep, and they need regular folks who are representative of actual jury composition to serve in those trials.

Most of these gigs are done at home over video, and the pay varies widely—from $5 per case on the low end to several hundred bucks for more complex cases that might take more time. There are a lot of companies looking for virtual jurors, so you can sign up with several and just take the assignments as they come, making a fair bit of coin for doing something that’s really interesting.

Sell your poop

If picking up dog poop doesn’t appeal to you, perhaps you’d be interested in monetizing another natural resource you’re producing all the time: your own poop. Companies need human feces for a wide variety of research purposes, and they’re willing to pay for it—as much as $500 per “donation” or $1,500 a month.

Not everyone is eligible for this side hustle, however, so don’t start collecting your output for future resale just yet. For example, GoodNature needs poop, but restricts donors to specific locations, and usually requires that you have a specific medical condition they’re studying. HumanMicrobes solicits stool donations for people needing a fecal microbiota transplantation (FMT), and pays well for them. But you have to meet some pretty strict age and health requirements. Still, if you meet those requirements, you can make serious money just by going to the bathroom.

Everything You Should Know About Solar-Powered Security Cameras

Choosing the right security camera can be tough. Most of the time, you have to choose between running wire to power them or make sure to charge the batteries regularly to keep them going. Solar-powered cameras, however, can combine ease of installation with dependable coverage by keeping the battery charged without ever needing to be plugged in.

Recharge batteries with sunlight

A solar-powered camera can be installed without running any wires and also without needing to be accessed for charging. With at least two full hours of sunlight per day, most solar-powered security cameras can keep running indefinitely, allowing you to “set and forget” your cameras. You can also stop climbing a ladder every few months to retrieve cameras for charging or battery exchange.

Wifi monitoring

Solar-powered cameras usually send security images and data via a secure wi-fi connection. They can also sometimes run on a cell network, like the new Eufy 4G solar cam, or they can sometimes use a local Bluetooth connection. Since solar security cameras use a wireless signal to transmit information to your phone or local smart home device, you don’t need to run cables for that part, either.

Continuous monitoring

Because solar powered cameras don’t need to go into standby mode to conserve battery life, they can record continuously instead of intermittently when they detect motion. Setting the scope of the motion detection on your battery-powered cameras to a large enough area for you to monitor pets or vehicles in a larger space can drain the batteries even faster. A solar-powered camera can allow you to take a look at what’s going on on your feed regardless of whether the motion sensor has been triggered without worrying about running out of power.

Choosing the right battery

In order for your solar-powered security camera to keep working on cloudy days, it will need to have a battery with enough storage to keep it working even under cloudy conditions. Look for a battery that will run for at least one day on one charge. If you live in an area with lots of cloudy days, you should look for a longer-lasting battery. When choosing a camera system that runs on solar power, make sure to confirm that your system’s battery capacity allows it to run for a minimum of 12 hours on a single charge.

Set your cameras up for success

To make sure that you have enough sunlight for continuous operation, using a solar charger that can be placed on the roof or on a south-facing wall is ideal. Getting the best sun exposure will keep the batteries on your camera charged for cloudy days and overnight. Cameras should be placed with the view you want, and high up enough so that they can’t be reached and removed by strangers. Since your solar-charged cameras don’t need to be retrieved to change or charge the batteries, placing them in a hard-to-reach spot won’t present as many difficulties down the road.

What to look for in a solar-powered security camera

To begin with, when choosing a wireless security camera, you should look for one that’s compatible with the smart home devices that you already use. Rather than installing multiple apps to access, choosing a camera that’s compatible with your existing system will allow you to integrate your cameras into the rest of your house. You should also choose a camera that has a high resolution—HD or better—so that the footage will be clear when you need to access it. The higher the wattage of your solar charger, the faster it will be able to charge your camera’s battery. Look for six watts or above for faster charging.

The Best Smart Locks to Secure Your Smart Home

About a year ago, I traveled home to see my mother and was met with a strange new addition to my childhood home: All of the doors now had smart locks on them (she quickly registered my fingerprint to them so I wouldn’t get locked out of my own bedroom). She said she got them because some of her friends were being nosy when they came over, but instead of interrogating her about the people with whom she chooses to spend her time, I looked into smart locks and found that they’re extremely useful—and pretty affordable.

With a smart lock, you no longer need to stress all day about remembering if you locked the door. You can quickly check your phone to see whether you remembered to lock up, which you can do from anywhere. Plus, there’s no concern about ever getting locked out, as long as your phone is charged or you know the right passcode. If you want to upgrade, here are some great options. 

The best smart-locking door handles with fingerprint technology

First up, these locks recognize your fingerprint, like iPhones used to do, and unlock when you touch the handle. It’s all very futuristic and, in my experience, convenient. 

  • The one I’ve used is by Gekrone ($69.99) and it has a bunch of features that justify the price point: In addition to using your fingerprint, you can also use a PIN (on a numerical pad that appears down the length of the door handle when prompted), an app, or an actual key (which is nice if the batteries die). 

  • For something less expensie, try the Aibocn smart door lock ($49.99) which has the same features and allows you to generate temporary passcodes for guests. 

The best smart locks for front doors

If you want something a little more robust than just a locking door handle, try these, which are hefty enough to secure your front door. 

  • The Hornbill keyless entry door lock ($58.49) is a deadbolt lock that still works with fingerprints, an app, a passcode, and mechanical keys. My mom set hers up to link with her Amazon Echos and can now command Alexa to lock her front door, which gives real Smart House vibes. 

  • If you’re just looking to bypass keys and don’t want anything too tech-y, try the TEEHO TE001 keyless entry lock ($32.78), which unlocks with a predetermined passcode. I’ve used ones like this before and have a word of warning: Keep the real key on you just in case, because if the battery dies, you’re screwed. 

  • The Eufy Security Smart Lock ($94.99) also packs a big punch, with an app that enables you to lock and unlock the door from anywhere, plus a keypad and physical key, Apple Watch connectivity, and Alexa/Google Voice Assistant functionality. It also pairs with Eufy doorbells within the brand’s app, so you can set routines and controls for both at once. (Eufy also sells a combination lock/video doorbell for $269.99 if you just want to bundle right off the bat.)

  • Schlage’s Encode Smart Wi-Fi Deadbolt ($211) has the dual honor of being recommended by both the New York Times and my mother, with the former heralding it as “easy-to-install” and “sharp-looking” and the latter calling it “great for the back door.” It comes in multiple sizes and finishes (so you can actually match it to your door), gives you the option to create up to 100 access codes for friends and family, and can be locked and unlocked from anywhere using your phone. Plus, of course, it works with your smart home devices, too. 

How to Turn Your Juliet Balcony Into Functional Space

In the hands of a skilled realtor, every confounding aspect of a home can be spun into something desirable. There’s no clearer example of this than the Juliet balcony—those narrow, not-really-a-balcony things bolted to the sides of buildings. (They're named for Romeo and Juliet, although Shakespeare didn’t actually refer to a balcony, making deception just one more crime these so-called balconies have perpetrated.) If you’ve ever gone to a real estate listing promising “private outdoor space” only to puzzle over a railing slapped over a tall window, you know the dark mystery of these “balconets.”

Any access to fresh air and more sunlight is a good thing, of course—but Juliet balconies are only marginally more effective than any old window when it comes to ventilation and natural light. So you wouldn’t be the first person to wonder how, exactly, you’re supposed to use your tiny scrap of outdoor space. Like a lot of modern “innovations” that don’t actually add much value, making a Juliet balcony work requires just a little creativity.

Garden

The most common way to make your Juliet balcony into something useful is to transform it into a garden. If you have a shallow floor to work with, some narrow planters with vertically-growing plants will work nicely, and some railing planters will add even more visual interest. If the railing has spokes, you could also consider a climbing vine to provide a natural privacy screen.

Your garden could be decorative, or you could put it to work as a vegetable garden, relying on dwarf fruit and vegetable plants (there’s even a tomato variety literally called the Patio Princess) to provide fresh food in addition to natural beauty. And if your Juliet balcony overlooks a busy city street, your lush balcony garden will hide the urban sprawl behind a much more peaceful wall of nature.

Dining area

If you enjoy eating out in the fresh air but your Juliet balcony is your only access to it, you can create a comfortable dining area with a folding rail table and some folding chairs (that can also be stored out on the balcony). Open the doors or windows to your balcony, fold out the table, and set out your meal (or coffee, or cocktails). When you’re done, everything folds up and you can close your doors or window until next time.

You could also turn your Juliet balcony into a nice little reading nook. A comfortable chair, a folding table for a beverage or a pile of books, and an arc reading lamp will make your Juliet balcony a cozy spot to catch up on your reading list while enjoying the breeze.

Outdoor kitchen

If you love to grill, having a Juliet balcony as your only “outdoor space” is disappointing. But don’t let a narrow space stop you—get yourself a rail-mounted grill and a folding rail-mounted table and you’ll be grilling up a storm in no time. Get a folding dining table and some chairs you can set up just inside, and you can serve a feast to a guest or two without smoking up your whole apartment.

If you’re not into cooking, a rail-mounted outdoor bar cabinet can transform your Juliet balcony into a great outdoor bar area for get-togethers or a quiet cocktail after dinner on your own.

Storage

If you’re living in a small space that’s bursting with stuff, a Juliet balcony might be more useful to you as a slice of extra storage. A vertical bicycle stand, for example, will allow you to store your bike on a Juliet balcony as long as there are a few inches of floor space out there. A narrow, water-resistant deck box will let you safely store a lot of stuff out there, freeing up valuable indoor storage or floor space.

Extend the balcony

If you really wish you had a real balcony but had to settle for a Juliet balcony, consider extending the balcony into your interior space. Get some wood deck tiles, start them out on the balcony, and extend them into the room a few feet. Add some container plants and a table and chairs and you have a full-size balcony and patio experience despite the fact that most of your patio space is located indoors. It's a little unconventional, but it works.

A Juliet balcony isn’t the most useful architectural feature you can have in your home—but with a little effort it can be a lot more useful.

What’s the Ideal Temperature for Your Refrigerator?

Have you noticed your milk getting frosty? Meat spoiling quickly? It’s likely your refrigerator is set to the wrong temperature. The FDA recommends keeping your refrigerator at or below 40° F (4° C), and your freezer at 0° F (-18° C) to keep your food fresh for longer and to prevent the growth of bacteria that could cause food-borne illnesses. Here are some more tips to help you ensure your perishables don’t perish.

The best temperature for a refrigerator

Avoid the "danger zone." If you want to ensure your food isn’t developing harmful bacteria that may make you sick, keep it out of the cold-but-not-cold-enough “danger zone” in which bacteria thrive. According to Good Housekeeping, the ideal fridge temp is between 35° F (1.6° C) and 38° F (3.3° C).

How to monitor your fridge's temperature

Get a thermometer for your fridge. “I never trust an appliance’s self-reporting temperature; I’ve had enough ovens with hot spots to always be wary,” advises a user on the food safety forum at Stack Exchange. “With our fridge, our crisper drawer regularly frosts and partially freezes our veggies, and with a thermometer I was able to determine why: it’s significantly colder down there than the 35° F the rest of the fridge is set on. By at least 5-8 degrees.” Move the thermometer around to check for cold and warm spots, and arrange your food accordingly.

Bulb thermometers, the kind with red liquid that moves up and down, are easy to read, reliable, and you don't need to change their batteries. If you don't have one, you can still check if your fridge is too cold. Place a container of water in the back of the fridge on a low shelf (usually the coldest part) for about 24 hours. If it freezes, then that's a sign you may want to raise the temperature a couple degrees.

Keep your refrigerator full

If you’re opening your refrigerator and freezer regularly, then keeping them stocked may help keep the temperature consistent. “With an empty fridge, every time you open and close the door you cycle most of the air in it, replacing the cooled air with warmer air, which has then to be cooled again,” say fridge enthusiasts on The Naked Scientists. “With a full fridge, there’s not only less air to be cycled and re-cooled, all the other items that have been cooled stay in the fridge. The presence of many items in the fridge may also reduce the airflow, meaning even less air is exchanged each time the door is opened and then closed.”

But don’t overstuff it

Keeping the fridge and freezer full is more efficient, yes—but packing it too tightly will restrict circulation and air flow, ultimately forcing it to work harder to keep things at the right temperature, according to Hunker. Another risk: jamming too much in the fridge can block air vents, leading to a host of temperature and moisture issues, and potentially causing some foods to spoil more quickly.

Check the air vents

To expand upon that last point: Air needs to pass unimpeded between the freezer and refrigerator in order to keep the temperature steady. If you’re seeing frost in your fridge, make sure there isn’t a wayward loaf of bread stuffed up against the air vent, preventing circulation. You should be able to find a guide for your particular refrigerator model online.

Know your fridge’s naturally coldest areas

“The temperature within your fridge can vary rather significantly with normal usage,” says Stack Exchange’s hobodave. “The coldest parts of your refrigerator are the back, and the bottom. The back because the cooling element is there, and the bottom because warm air rises. If items you don’t want frosty are getting frosty, then move them away from the back of the fridge.”

Don’t put spoil-prone items in the door

The fridge door is likely to be one of the warmest areas of the fridge, and a spot where the temperature fluctuates the most—so don’t store anything likely to spoil there. “The items in the door of your fridge can easily get as high as 59° F (15° C), and do so often,” says hobodave. “Putting milk and eggs in your door will significantly decrease their shelf life.” In fact, speaking to Well and Good, dietitian Lisa DeFazio recommends never storing milk, eggs, dairy or meat in the door. Instead, keep those items toward the rear of the fridge, where temperates are colder and more stable.

Consider Adding a Solar Water Heater to Your Home

You know how expensive energy can be—and it’s not getting any cheaper. Bills piling up is one reason why people look into solar energy solutions for their homes, but when people think solar they tend to focus exclusively on generating electricity and getting off their local grid. And while traditional solar panels are a great idea and can have a huge impact on your utility bills, there’s another option you shouldn’t sleep on: aolar water heaters.

Solar water heaters are exactly what they sound like: water heaters that use the sun’s energy. If you’ve ever left a beverage sitting out in the sun you know that it's very good at heating up liquids, and adding a solar water heater to your home is a simple, straightforward way to cut your energy bills. As an added bonus, using a solar water heater also has a positive impact on the environment, because you won’t be using traditional energy sources.

How solar water heaters work

Solar water heaters have two parts: a collector and a circulation system. The collector is mounted on the roof and stores and heats the water, and the circulation system transfers the water to your taps. The circulation system can be active, using pumps, or passive, relying on gravity or convection to move the water from one place to another.

Solar water heaters will work in any climate, but the type of collector and circulation system used is determined by the climatic conditions in your local area. For example, solar water heaters using an evacuated tube collector, which surrounds the water with a vacuum to prevent heat loss, can maintain water temperature even in very cold climates—but they’re typically the most expensive system to install. How much sun your roof gets, the likelihood of freezing temperatures, and other factors all affect which collector and circulation system is the best choice.

Benefits

Installing a solar water heater will run you anywhere from $3,000 to $8,000, depending on your location and the type of system being installed. Which ain’t cheap—but as with solar panels, the up-front cost is an investment that will pay off over time in three big ways:

  • Bills. About 18% of the energy you use in your home goes to heating up your water. A traditional electric water heater costs about $438 per year to operate, while a gas water heater costs about $224 annually on average. Going solar reduces those costs to about zero.

  • Tax break. Solar water heaters qualify for a 30% tax credit, so your cost of installation will be reduced significantly.

  • Environmental concerns. Whether your traditional water heater is gas or electric, it’s relying on some portion of fossil fuels and other polluting sources to heat up your water. A solar water heater removes about 4,000 pounds of CO2 from the atmosphere every year.

If you live in an area that gets a lot of sunlight and you’re considering solar energy—or already have solar panels in place—a solar water heater is a great idea. Even if electricity and gas are relatively cheap where you are, that may not always be the case, and a solar water heater will save you some money in the long run no matter what. You can explore the models and available rebates in your area and other information using the government’s Energy Star website.

How Low-E Windows (or Coating) Can Save You Money

Your home’s windows can be a major source of heat loss in winter and can absorb heat from sunlight during the warmer months. While using shades and drapes can help cut down on heat transfer from your windows, there are times when you want to pull them open and let the light in. When you do, there’s a type of window and coating that can prevent heat transfer through your windows without obstructing the view: Low-E windows.

What are Low-E windows?

Low-E windows are made from glass that has a microscopic metallic coating on it that is barely visible. You likely won’t notice the coating because it doesn’t change the way your windows look very much, but it insulates windows from heat transfer by reflecting UV and infrared light. Low-E coating narrows the wavelength of light that can come through your windows, cutting down on the wavelengths of light that transfer the most heat through the glass. By preventing heat from being absorbed through the windows, Low-E glass can keep the inside of your home cooler in summer and warmer in winter.

Windows with a Low-E coating can reduce heat transfer by 70%. That means that one of the biggest sources of energy expenditure on temperature control can be reduced by 70% with a low e coating. Low-E windows can save you 12% to 33% on energy by providing reflective insulation. Depending on where you live, this can amount to an annual saving of between $70 and $500. While the initial investment in Low-E windows can be 10% to 15% more than regular windows, the savings can be worth it if you live in an area with higher energy costs or where your HVAC is running year round.

Since Low-E coatings reflect UV light, having Low-E windows can prevent sun damage to carpets, artwork, and furniture. Cutting down on UV light can also help prevent bleaching on hardwood floors and woodwork. Some types of plastic can also be damaged by UV rays, so adding a Low-E coating can save you money on replacing or repairing furniture, flooring, and textiles by preventing that damage.

DIY Low-E coating versus new windows

Low-E windows can either come pre-coated from the manufacturer, or an e coating film can be applied on site by a homeowner. The DIY type of window film can be time consuming, and as with any window film, it can be tricky to get right. The upside to the DIY approach is that you can apply it to your existing windows for around $1.44/square foot or around $9 per window. The DIY type of Low-E window coating will last about 10 to 15 years if properly installed. While new windows with Low-E coating on them are significantly more expensive than the film, if you have older windows, they can be worth it for sealing up leaks and gaps that the film won’t fix.

Unlike other types of spectrally selective window coatings that can frost or tint windows, Low-E windows don’t need to have a visible tint. While in some cases, there can be a very slight tint, for the most part, the coating is invisible. That means you can have all the benefits of natural sunlight, plus a clear view while still keeping heat transfer to a minimum and reducing your home energy bill.

How (and Why) to Mark and Monitor Minor Cracks in Your Home

Most homes have a few imperfections or quirks that have been there for as long as you can remember: One replacement bathroom tile that doesn't quite match the others, an old doorknob that sticks, or perhaps a gouge in the wainscoting. There are also the minor defects that make you second guess your memory; more specifically, whether they're new, or they've always been there, but you've never noticed them before.

Hairline cracks in walls and ceilings often fall under the second category. It can be difficult to determine whether they're recent—and possibly a sign that something is amiss—have long gone unnoticed, or disappear and reappear seasonally based on temperature fluctuations. That's why it's a good idea to mark or document these cracks when you first see them, instead of relying solely on your memory.

How to mark and monitor cracks in your walls and ceilings

Living in a rented apartment on the top floor of a nearly century-old building, I've seen—and marked—my fair share of wall and ceiling cracks. Like many apartment buildings constructed at this time, mine has lath-and-plaster walls and ceilings. Often highlighted in marketing brochures of the era for their fire- and sound-resistant qualities, plaster walls and ceiling are also more prone to cracking than those made using drywall, which are more common today. Here's how I keep track of mine:

Mark the endpoints with a pencil

First, I put light pencil mark at each of the crack's endpoints, and write the date—including the year—next to one of them. Though I write directly on my walls using a pencil that I know erases well, that may not be an option for everyone.

crack on white wall with pencil marks on each end
Credit: Elizabeth Yuko

To avoid marking the wall or ceiling itself, Alexandra Cooper, an architect and interior designer at Planner 5D, suggests placing a piece of transparent tape over the crack first. "This can help prevent the crack from widening further, and also provide a clear surface for marking," she says.

In addition to marking cracks that you've noticed for the first time, you may also want to consider doing the same for those that you've been aware of for a while, in order to determine whether they grow or change over time.

Take photos

Next, I take well-lit photos of the crack standing directly in front of it, as well as from a few other angles and distances. Not only are the images helpful visual references for monitoring the crack, but they also provide another record of the date and time. This is especially handy if you're a short person with tall ceilings that you can only reach using the extra-tall ladder that you have to borrow from your building's maintenance person, for instance.

Check it periodically

If the crack appeared after some extreme weather, for example, you'll probably want to check it on a near daily basis—at least for the first week or so—to see whether there's any active movement or additional shifting resulting from the event. Once you're convinced that it's relatively stable, or if there wasn't a clear cause and you've just noticed what was probably an existing crack, check it every month or two. If you haven't observed any changes, you can probably cut back to every six months or year.

The key, at least for me, is to put reminders to check the crack in my calendar, immediately after marking and photographing it on the day I first notice one. Otherwise, if it's not somewhere directly in my line of vision, I will probably forget.

Document any changes

As soon as I notice that a crack now extends beyond its previous endpoints, I mark and date the new ones and take a few new photos showing the growth. I haven't seen much movement over the years, so this is the extent of what I do.

But if you are noticing changes (or just a fan of record-keeping) there are better ways of doing this. For example, Cooper recommends keeping a physical or digital document recording the crack's length and any other relevant measurements or observations, like the direction of the movement, whether it's also widening, and so on.

Also, if you notice that the crack is shifting fairly regularly, Cooper suggests making note of the temperature and humidity levels each time it moves to get an idea of whether the changes are seasonal.

When to be concerned about a crack

Though hairline cracks in walls and ceilings typically aren't cause for alarm, it's important to know how to spot the signs of a potential problem, including those that may require professional attention.

Changes in width

According to Korey Gregory, a licensed general contractor and the superintendent of ASAP Restoration, the most important thing to monitor is the width of the crack. "Think of cracks in a home like a windshield," he says. "You almost expect the crack in a windshield to grow in length, but if it started to widen out and let in air while driving, you’d be concerned. Cracks in the walls of your home work the same way."

When a crack grows in width, that means there's been substantial movement, which could be a sign of structural issues. "If a crack grows from more than a hairline fracture to an eighth of an inch or more, I would be concerned and call an expert right away to be safe," Gregory says.

Growth in length

Unlike its width, there isn't a specific length or amount of growth that clearly demarcates when a hairline crack has become a concern, but Cooper says that significant lengthening over a short period could indicate structural movement. As Gregory points out, cracks can get longer for a variety of reasons, including years of doors closing, people walking above that area, kids playing upstairs, or even heavy winds that move the home slightly. But unless these cracks are also growing in width, they're typically not cause for concern, he says.

Location of the changes

When you notice a crack is getting longer, pay attention to the direction of the growth. For instance, according to Gregory, a crack that continues up vertically through a doorway header could be the sign of a problem. Because doorway headers are thickened with supporting beams that tie into the foundation or slab, if you notice that the header is shifting, it means that "major issues are happening with the structural integrity of the home," he says.

Along the same lines, Cooper says that cracks near windows, the corners of a room, load-bearing walls, or where the wall and ceiling meet might also signal settlement or structural issue, and "should raise more concern."

Also make note of the direction of the crack's movement. "Vertical or diagonal cracks are typically less concerning than horizontal cracks, which could signify foundation or structural problems," Cooper says.

Cracks on the walls of the second floor (or above)

Additionally, if there are cracks in the walls of the second floor in a home, then it might be a sign that the builders didn’t follow the proper methods for securing the second story to the first and the foundation. With most two-story homes, the studs from the first floor extend upwards and become the studs of the second floor.

Occasionally, builders will sister in studs on the second floor which aren’t as structurally sound. In extreme weather situations, the studs connecting the first and second floor can act as a pivot point causing stress cracking. As with cracks on the first floor, and above doorways, if the width increases, you should have it professionally checked out.

The shape of the crack

According to Cooper, if what starts out as a single-line crack goes on to branch out or form a web-like pattern, it could be a sign of increasing stress on the structure.

Accompanying issues

When you first notice a crack, check to see whether there are any other new issues, like sticking doors or windows, uneven floors, or gaps between walls and floors, which Cooper says could be another sign of structural problems.

How to repair minor cracks

According to Gregory, the best way to fix elongating cracks that aren’t increasing in width is to use silicone caulking. "The reason for this is because silicone will stretch and shift with the crack, whereas drywall mud will eventually reveal the same crack again, especially if it is growing in width too," he says.

When to contact a professional

For cracks that are widening or growing in a concerning shape, location, or direction, your best bet is to bring in a professional for a thorough inspection of your home. If you're uncertain about the seriousness of the crack, or if it's rapidly changing, Cooper says that it's better to be cautious and consult an expert. Additionally, if you have an older home, or one with a history of structural issues, she says it's advisable to involve a professional as soon as you notice any potentially concerning cracks.

These Milwaukee Tool Sets Are Up to 55% Off at Home Depot

If you are looking to build out a cordless tool set, getting started can be tough. Buying the tools individually can cost more than buying a set, but buying set requires a lot of money all at once.

Right now, Home Depot is having a sale on tool sets that will make it easier to build out your own library. Here are a few of the best deals.

M18 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless 9 tool combo kit

This 9 tool kit is $599 right now—50% off its regular price. The kit comes with a drill and an impact driver, as well as a high torque impact wrench for tackling larger nuts and bolts and driving lag bolts.

Also included are a circular saw, a reciprocating saw, and an oscillating tool; these three are a good starting point for a home tool kit, as they will allow you to handle larger, longer cuts on flat surfaces like plywood, quick cuts with the sawzall, and a variety of smaller, more specialized cuts with the sawzall.

A cut-off grinder rounds out the kit's cutting capability; you can use it for making cuts to metal and grinding off nails and screws. There’s also a light, a blower, and a tool bag, as well as a battery charger and three 18 volt batteries.

M18 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless 7 tool combo kit

The 7 tool kit is on sale for $499 (55% off) and comes with a drill and driver set as well as a reciprocating saw and a circular saw. It also has an oscillating tool, as well as a cut-off grinder for making a variety of cuts. A light and tool bag round out this set along with two 18 Volt batteries and a charger.

M18 18V Lithium-Ion Cordless 5 tool combo kits

This 5 tool kit is $279 right now, 53% off its regular price. The kit has a drill and impact driver set as well as a circular saw. It also comes with an orbital sander that’s great for finishing work. Also included with the kit are a light, a tool bag, and two batteries with a charger.

Another 5 tool kit includes a different tool combination for $379, 53% off its normal price. This combo kit comes with a drill and driver set as well as an impact wrench. It also includes a cut-off grinder and a reciprocating saw. The light and carrying case finish out the set, which comes with two 18 volt batteries and a charger.

M18 18V Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 1/2 in. Compact Drill/Driver

If you just need a drill, the Milwaukee drill set is on sale for $99, 50% off its regular price. The set comes with the drill, battery, charger, and tool bag. You can also opt for an impact driver set if you’re interested in expanding your kit or just looking for a good quality driver. The impact driver set comes with the driver, a battery, charger and tool bag and is also on sale for $99, 50% off its regular price.

Your Tool Kit Needs a Magnetizer

If you’ve ever opened up an appliance, you’re probably familiar with the frustration of screws and small parts rolling away or falling inside an opened-up machine. And for working on cars, magnetic bits and wrenches can help you keep from dropping parts into your engine. If you’re thinking of tackling a repair project that has lots of small screws, a magnetizer might be for you.

How do magnetizers work?

A tool magnetizer uses a magnet with positive polarity to rearrange the electrons in the metal of a tool to align with the magnetic field of the tool magnetizer. This increases the strength of the magnetic field in the metal of the tool, thus “magnetizing” it. A demagnetizer uses a magnet with negative polarity to rearrange the electrons in the metal of a tool to align with the magnetic field of the demagnetizer. This decreases the strength of the magnetic field in the metal of the tool, thus “demagnetizing” it. A magnetizer can use either a built-in magnet, arranged so that the tools will be ideally positioned when placed in the slot or hole, or it can use electricity to generate a magnetic field in order to change the magnetic polarity of your tool. Magnetizer/demagnetizers only work on ferromagnetic metals like iron, cobalt, nickel, and some steel. A magnetizer won’t work on non-ferromagnetic metals like aluminum, copper, brass, or stainless steel.

What can you use a magnetizer for?

A magnetizer can be helpful when you’re dealing with small hardware like screws from an appliance or nuts and bolts under the hood of your car. Magnetizing your screwdriver or wrench can help you to keep from dropping parts while they’re being installed or removed. A magnetizer can also be used on bits for an impact driver or drill, allowing you to work with screws and nuts on a ladder without needing to hold onto hardware as much. You can also magnetize the ends of tweezers to hold onto really small parts. A magnetized tool can be used to help retrieve dropped parts, especially smaller parts that are hard to grab with your fingertips.

What can you use a demagnetizer for?

A tool demagnetizer can be useful to use on tools before you work on electronics that can be damaged by magnetic fields like hard disc drives, electronics with magnetic sensors like laptops, or older style monitors with cathode ray tubes. To avoid damaging your electronics, you can demagnetize your tool before using it on these items as well as around vintage media recordings on cassette or video tape.

How to use a tool magnetizer

A tool magnetizer will have slots or holes labeled either “magnetize” or “demagnetize.” You can also use a larger, plug-in model that will accommodate slightly larger tools if you plan to use your magnetizer on wrenches or other larger tools. Just put the tool through the slot with the label that corresponds with the function you’re trying to use. Once you pull the tool out, it will be properly set up for your task. You can reverse your magnetization when you’re done, if you don't want magnetic tools all the time.

The Best Ways to Overcome Home Maintenance Anxiety

Home maintenance can feel like a lot. Repairs and even routine upkeep can seem daunting —and if you aren’t already handy, completely overwhelming. But putting off repairs can lead to bigger issues down the road (and cost even more money). Even if you don’t have much experience, or just need to understand how to request the right repair, have no fear. There are plenty of things you can do to get past your anxiety and approach fixing things around your home with confidence.

Where to find good home-maintenance advice

One of the biggest obstacles for folks who are new to doing maintenance and repairs is getting the right advice. On top of finding conflicting opinions on social media about how to deal with a particular issue, it can be intimidating to ask for help, especially if the help is coming from someone who has authority or is dismissive of your concerns or questions. While getting past this hurdle can be tough, there are a few good places you can look for friendly, non-judgmental advice on how to tackle a particular repair. 

One of my favorite sources of information on DIY and maintenance—especially for apartment dwellers—is Mercury Stardust. Her new podcast, Maintenance is a Drag, is a question-and-answer show that takes a few projects from the audience and helps walk them through a solution. For general tips, her TikTok also has a plethora of sound advice topped off with a healthy dose of reassurance—and some comedy, too. Feel free to ask her a question; she’ll often respond.

For instruction from a maintenance pro focused on empowering women to wield tools and tackle maintenance, See Jane Drill offers a variety of instructions for various projects, helpful tips and tricks, and instructions for how to operate particular tools. While her channel is geared toward women, anyone who wants to learn about maintenance can benefit from her helpful and approachable videos. You can also check out the See Jane Drill Website for articles as well as a tool database lookup and more, all geared towards beginners.

How to plan ahead for maintenance and repairs

Since some maintenance is routine, like switching out the filters in your HVAC or cleaning out your dryer vent, these things can be a part of a regular plan you set up to stay on top of home maintenance. You can begin a plan like this by taking note of your appliances and fixtures and recording the manufacturer recommended maintenance schedule. Then, you can add annual and semi-annual tasks like clearing gutters or reversing your ceiling fans. Build these tasks into a calendar to make a schedule. Knowing what’s coming up can help reduce anxiety and keep your regular maintenance on track. There are apps like Home Keep that can help you build your calendar if you’re not sure where to start. The monthly subscription is $1.99/month.

When it comes to emergencies like storms or wildfires, it’s harder to predict exactly what you’ll need. However, beginning a maintenance fund, even if you only put a few dollars in it per month, can help you to prepare for emergencies and surprise repair costs. If you’re a homeowner, having a home warranty can also help to defray costs of repairs along with your homeowners insurance. For renters, getting to know the maintenance policy attached to your rental agreement can give you a sense of what your responsibilities are and what your landlord should be taking care of.

If you’re concerned about finding reputable pros to help with things you can’t do yourself, it’s worth asking friends and neighbors about their experiences. Starting with some information you trust before you need to call in a pro will make it easier to choose when you're in a stressful situation.

How to request maintenance

If you live in an apartment, you’ll need to request certain repairs from your building management or from your landlord. Repairs you shouldn’t do on your own include electrical work, leaky plumbing or water coming in from outside. These problems might require a phone call, but you should also make an official request for repairs in writing. That’s because as a renter, you are usually responsible for notifying your landlord of any problems. Once your landlord knows there’s a problem, it’s on them to fix it, so having an official correspondence is important. You can find a variety of free templates for requesting maintenance for your apartment from management if your building doesn’t have forms available.

If you have a house and you need a repair, you can check with your homeowner’s insurance about emergency-related repairs, and you can also check with your home warranty company before calling a repair professional to make sure your repairs will be covered. You should also check to see if your appliance or fixture is under warranty from the manufacturer or installer before paying out of pocket for repairs. These are some ways you can take advantage of the insurance and warranty coverage you’re likely already paying for to reduce the cost of repairs.

These DeWalt Tools Are on Sale for Up to 61% Off Right Now

DeWalt has a few good deals right now on Amazon on tools that can be a good addition to your existing DeWalt set, or the beginning of a new set if you’re looking to build one. From lights to saws, here’s a breakdown of some of the best DeWalt Tool deals happening right now on Amazon.

DeWalt Lights

For a work light, DeWalt has their 20 Volt MAX LED Work Light on sale for $49.99, 61% off its original price. The work light has a magnetic mount as well as a clip and movable tilt head for easy positioning. This deal doesn’t come with batteries, so you’ll need to buy those separately. If you’re looking for a strong flashlight, the DeWalt 20 Volt MAX LED Flashlight is on sale right now for $36.90, 56% off its regular price. This tool has a hook and a tiltable head, but no magnetic base. It’s a tool-only package, so it doesn’t come with batteries. These lighting deals from DeWalt are likely the best deal for someone who already owns a DeWalt set and is looking to expand it.

Drivers and drills

If you’re looking to build a set, the DeWalt 20 Volt MAX Cordless Drill/Impact Driver set is on sale right now for $139, 42% off its normal price, and it comes with the impact driver, drill, two 20-volt batteries, and a charger. The kit also comes with a tool bag to carry it. Since it comes with the batteries and a charger, this is a good starter kit. If you want to expand your existing kit, the DeWalt 20 Volt MAX Impact Driver is on sale for $70.87 right now, 49% off of its usual price. This is a tool-only deal, so it’s not a great fit for a new kit unless you plan to buy other tools that come with batteries and chargers.

Batteries and chargers

To start a new tool kit, or keep up with the increasing demand of an existing one, you can never have too many batteries. The DeWalt 20 Volt MAX 2 Battery Charging Kit is on sale for $132, 61% off the original price. The kit comes with two 20-volt batteries and a charger, but keep in mind that these are not the new “power stack” batteries, meaning they have a larger profile than the newer style batteries do. For a slimmer, more powerful battery, the DeWalt 20 Volt MAX 1 Battery Starter Kit is on sale for $93.49, 68% off its normal price. This kit has one battery and one charger included.

Saws

The DeWalt 20 Volt MAX Cordless Jig Saw is on sale right now for $127, 47% off its base price. This jig saw has an LED light for precise cuts and dial- as well as trigger-controlled blade speed for multiple materials and types of cuts. This is a tool-only package, so it’s a better deal if you already have some DeWalt batteries and are looking to add to your set. For metalworking, the DeWalt 20 Volt MAX Cordless 1 ¾ inch Bandsaw can cut metal bar stock, bolts, screws, and more. It’s on sale for $185, 42% off its usual price. It comes with a 20-volt battery and charger as well as a 14/18 tpi blade and blade tracking wrench for adjusting the blade position. Since this tool comes with everything you need to operate it, it’s a good choice for someone building a cordless kit and getting into metalworking.

Orbital sander

The DeWalt 20 Volt MAX Cordless Sander is on sale for $134, 46% off its original price. The five-inch sander comes as a kit with a 20-volt battery and charger as well as a soft carrying case. This is a good tool for someone starting a kit because it comes with everything except the sandpaper.

Finish nailer

If you’re looking for a battery-operated finish nailer, DeWalt 20 Volt MAX 16 Gauge Finish Nailer is on sale right now for $329, 49% off its regular price. This is a tool-only package, but you don’t need a pneumatic air compressor or hoses to make it work.

10 of the Easiest DIY Bathroom Updates (for Less Than $100 Each)

If your bathroom is feeling dated, or if you just want to spruce it up, renovating can be a pricey prospect. With cabinets, countertops, fixtures, and plumbing to consider, a small redo can add up quickly. If you’re not ready to spend enough money for a total upgrade, there are some things you can do to update your bathroom on a much smaller budget. Here are the 10 things you can update in your bathroom, all for well under $100, to make it look more updated without breaking the bank.

1. Hang some low profile shelves

Bathroom storage can be tricky because there are so many little cosmetics and toiletries that need to be corralled, but generally, bathrooms are pretty small and there aren't many options. Adding some low-profile shelving ($38.99) to increase storage while not taking up too much space can add both practical and aesthetic value to your bathroom. Ledge shelves ($38.99), corner shelves ($16.99), or even a DIY custom wall shelf with brackets($18.99) can be an effective way to add some charm and functionality to your bathroom.

2. Make the ceiling stand out

Painting your ceiling a bold accent color ($51.61), using some wallpaper ($0.58/square foot, $5.59/roll) to the ceiling, or stenciling ($7.99) a pattern using flat paint ($64.99) as a base, and gloss paint ($25.33) as the pattern to give the illusion of texture are all ways you can create some impact with your ceiling.

3. Update metals with paint

It might seem like once your bathroom fixtures, cabinet handles, drawer pulls, and other metal accents have lost their luster that the only thing to do is replace them. But most metals can be painted to breathe new life into them, so long as the surface is properly prepped, and openings and moving parts are properly masked. You can use metallic spray paint ($10.48) on most metal surfaces after it’s been cleaned and lightly sanded or you can choose to use a color ($6.98) instead for a totally different look. To spray-paint metal, you should remove the hardware if possible to avoid overspray in the rest of the room. Remember to paint in a well ventilated area like outdoors. You will also need some tape ($4.98) to mask off areas like nozzles that you don’t want to paint.

4. Add some plants

Adding plants might be the simplest of all the upgrades you can do, plus choosing them is fun and plants are generally good for your wellbeing. Using smaller pots ($30.00) with little pops of green can work even if you don’t have much space, or you can choose a hanging ($24.99) variety to avoid taking up precious surface space.

5. Stencil the floor

If you have self stick tiles or vinyl flooring that hate (but aren’t ready to replace), you can paint ($54.95) your tile and stencil ($13.99) your own pattern on top with a bold color ($17.97) to give it a fresh look. A painted pattern won’t last as long as a new tile job, but at less than $100, it’s certainly worth the cost.

6. Add some trim

You might not think of putting wainscoting ($23.42/ 32” by 48” panel) or crown molding ($2.47/linear foot) in a bathroom, but adding a little trim will bring some texture in without spending a whole lot of money, and it can add some interest to a plain surface. Installing molding does require some tools, so if you’re very new to DIY, this shouldn’t be your first project. If you have some tools and measuring skills though, adding trim can be a completely DIY job. 

7. Update your lighting

Putting in a new light fixture can completely change the look of your space. You can swap out your vanity fixture with a new one ($87.99) for under $100, or you can opt to replace your overhead light ($24.99) instead. For swapping a light fixture, you’ll likely need a screwdriver, some wire nuts ($4.98), and you might need some wire strippers as well. Always remember to turn off the power to your fixture at the breaker box before doing any work on a light fixture.

8. Upgrade your towel holders

Towel bars, hook, and toilet paper holders don’t always stand up to the test of time. Because they’re simple to switch out, you can replace them yourself for a cost effective upgrade. You can get a set of modern towel hardware ($27.99) for under $30, or you can go with a more vintage inspired towel hanger ($39.99) for around $40.

9. Refurbish hinges and hardware

If you have older hinges or door handles in your bathroom that have been painted over one too many times, or have built up a layer of patina or tarnish, you can refurbish them yourself to breathe some new life into some old hardware. Removing metal hardware and placing it in boiling water to loosen up old paint and build-up on the metal and then using a wire brush ($7.98) to scrub away paint and tarnish is probably the cheapest bathroom upgrade you can do. Just don't scrub away at stainless steel so you don't damage its coating; if you have metal with a more delicate finish like that, it will be more difficult to remove paint without damaging the finish, so you might consider swapping it out or repainting it instead.

10. Use gloss enamel on an accent surface

If you need a pop of color, you don’t have to paint a whole wall to get a fresh new look. Repainting the frame of a mirror, drawer pulls, hooks, or handles, as well as any other little accents you choose with a high-gloss enamel can make older accents look new again and change the look of your space without spending much money. You can find high gloss enamel ($7.98) in almost any color for under $10.

A Modular System Can Give You a Green Roof for Less Money

Green roofs can diffuse heat that would otherwise be absorbed through your roof in warmer months and act as an added layer of insulation when it’s chilly outside. Often considered to be one of the most sustainable styles of roof for this reason—and also because a living roof can be a habitat for bees and other pollinators—green roofs can also be a charming addition to your home simply for the way they look. Installing a traditional green roof, however, can cost almost twice as much as a standard roof. Instead, consider modular options for a green roof, which makes the upgrade more affordable as well as friendlier for a DIY enthusiast.

What is a green roof?

A green or living roof is a roof that's surfaced with soil and plants instead of shingles or tiles. Systems for installing green roofs vary, but usually consist of creating a moisture barrier to keep water from getting inside and including some kind of barrier to prevent plants from growing down through the roof into your home. Then, soil, drainage medium, and plants can be added in layers or as modular units like those for a green roof. The whole system has to be compatible with the load capacity of your roof in mind, which is why you should always consult a roofing contractor or a structural engineer before trying a green roof.

Costs of a modular green roof compared to other roofing options

A modular green roof system costs between $10 and $30 per square foot, as compared to a built-in green roof, which averages between $20 and $35 per square foot. (The average cost to install a traditional roof is between $4.35 and $11 per square foot.) While modular systems can still be twice as expensive as a regular roof, they are a significant savings as compared to built-in-place alternatives.

Benefits of a green roof

A green roof can save as much as 25% on cooling costs during warmer months and in winter can reduce energy costs on the top floor of your home by up to 12%. Green roofs also reduce runoff water from your roof by around 65%, which can improve moisture conditions around your home and help to prevent water from collecting near your foundation. When planted with the right varieties of plants for your area, green roofs can also help improve biodiversity and attract pollinators.

Why modular green roofs are easier to install and maintain

Since modular green roofs come in smaller sections that snap together to form a grid on your roof, the system can be simpler to install than built-in systems that require lots of assembly on site. A simpler installation helps to lower the cost of a modular green roof as well as having some elements that are DIY-friendly. Although you’ll need help from a professional for prepping your roof for modular trays, the planting of the trays and some of the installation can be a DIY project.

A modular green roof also has the benefit of simpler maintenance, as most modular green roof systems allow sections to be removed and brought to the ground for maintenance or replanting, rather than requiring planting to take place on the roof. If you’re an ambitious DIYer and feel capable of getting the modules to and from the roof, you could do this type of maintenance yourself, but in general, it’s a good idea to hire a professional to perform maintenance including weeding about once per year.

Why you should hire a professional to install a green roof

Because green roofs add weight to your home, you need to make sure that a green roof can be supported by your home’s structure. In addition to the engineering portion, keeping your green roof in place over the long term means it needs to be properly attached, whether it’s modular or built in place. Prepping for the installation to ensure proper drainage, proper weight distribution, and irrigation if necessary are all considerations that make this a job best left to the professionals unless you’re very skilled and familiar with engineering schematics as well as permitting requirements.

Drawbacks of a modular green roof

Modular green roofing systems usually don’t work on a roof with a slope of more than 20 or 30%, so they aren’t a good fit for many peaked roofs. In addition to needing a gradually sloped or flat roof, modular roofing systems won’t likely last as long as their built-in counterparts. Although a built-in green roof might last as long as the building it’s attached to, a modular green roof will likely only last around 30 years. While there can be significant savings over the long term through longevity, reduced maintenance costs, and energy savings by installing a modular green roof, the upfront cost can be twice as much as a regular shingle roof.

Why You Should Consider a Parabolic Space Heater

Space heaters are a part of most people’s winter routine. Whether you live in an older, draftier home, or you like to spend time in a basement or garage workshop, space heaters can help you create a cozier area of your home without turning up the thermostat in your whole house. Parabolic space heaters are a type of infrared heater that use a parabolic reflector to aim the heat in a concentrated beam. Here’s why you should try one.

How infrared heat works

Infrared electromagnetic energy is energy past the red end of the spectrum of light that humans can see, hence its name that means “past red.” Infrared energy is what makes sunlight or fire feel warm to us. A heater that uses an infrared element—like a ceramic and wire coil element or a quartz, halogen, or tungsten bulb—generates heat by releasing infrared energy using electricity. Since the heat from an infrared heater is transferred like heat from the sun, it doesn’t require a fan to be distributed like with a forced air type of heating system.

What is a parabolic reflector?

Parabolic reflectors are reflectors made in the shape of a parabola, or a curve on which all points are equidistant from a focus point as well as a line known as the directrix. To us, it just looks like a shiny bowl shaped reflector. This type of reflector is used in lighting, satellite dishes, and radar dishes, as well as for heaters to create an aimable energy field. The beauty of using a parabolic reflector for an infrared heater is that it will reflect incoming energy from the focus out through its opening in an even field of heat.

Parabolic space heaters make infrared heat aimable

By using a parabolic reflector to evenly distribute the energy from an infrared heat source, a parabolic space heater creates a defined area of heat within the scope of its opening. Since this type of heater doesn’t use a fan, the reflector is the main tool for distributing heat from the infrared element. Rather than dissipating from an infrared source such as a ceramic and wire coil element or a quartz, halogen, or tungsten bulb, the reflector contains the infrared energy within its scope and evenly distributes it through the opening in front of the heater.

Parabolic heaters can be used outdoors

Since infrared heaters use energy rather than blowing air to heat an area, they are a popular choice for use outdoors. The way the heat is transferred isn’t disrupted by wind, and while wind will still cool you down if you’re under a parabolic heater outdoors, you’ll likely feel warmer than if you were relying on a blower to warm up outdoors. Take care, though, when using a parabolic heater outside to make sure it’s properly secured and that you have a model that’s intended for outdoor use.

Parabolic heaters are energy efficient

Since parabolic heaters don’t use a fan, they’re more efficient than other types of space heaters for heating a specific area. They are touted as being around 80% efficient, meaning that 80% of the energy they use comes out as heat when they’re running. A parabolic heater is cheaper than turning up your thermostat most of the time, so they can help you conserve energy and lower your home heating costs.

Advantages of parabolic heaters

Parabolic heaters don’t have fans, so they aren’t noisy. In addition to being quieter than most other space heaters, they also have the added benefit of not drying out the air as much. Since parabolic infrared space heaters emit heat as energy, they heat surfaces rather than the air, and don’t dry things out nearly as much as fan-driven space heaters.

Drawbacks to parabolic heaters

Since parabolic heaters aim heat in one particular direction, and mostly work by warming up surfaces rather than the air around them, they’re not great for large spaces. While they’re really good for heating you up while you’re sitting on a porch or at a workbench, they’re not so great if you plan to be up and moving around because they will mostly warm up what’s in front of them. While there are oscillating versions of parabolic heaters that can spread out the distribution of heat a little bit, they’re not intended for heating whole rooms, but rather targeted areas.

Safety when using parabolic heaters

Because the heating element in a parabolic heater can get very hot, you should make sure you keep them away from fabric like curtains, tablecloths, and bedding—you should keep the heater at least three feet from flammable surfaces. You can also opt for a parabolic heater with an automatic tip shut-off that will turn the heater off if it falls over. As with any heat source, supervision of children and pets is necessary.

The Best Ways to Furnish a Small Living Space

The narrative is that Americans like everything big—our cheeseburgers, our SUVs, and, of course, our homes. But the fact is apartments have been getting smaller, dropping from an average of 941 square feet in 2012 to an average of just 887 square feet today. That’s 54 fewer square feet, or the loss of one whole small room from our lives. And it’s not just apartments—new houses have shrunk by 13% since 2015.

Whether you’re house-hunting or scrambling to afford an apartment, chances are you’re finding smaller spaces to cram your whole life into, an experience made more complicated by the rise of work-from-home arrangements. One of the biggest challenges to a small space is furnishing: If you’ve only got a few hundred square feet to work with, how do you get a comfortable bedroom, living room, home office, and dining area set up without resorting to child-sized everything? The keys are simple: Keep your floors clear, and double up on the purpose of every item you can.

Clear the decks

Small spaces need to be versatile. Every room has to pull double- or triple-duty; your bedroom must also be your office, your living room must also be where the dinner parties are hosted—and probably your home gym, as well. Clutter negatively impacts our mental health—and it’s worse when we’re living in the clutter. The key to making a small space work is keeping as much stuff off the floors as possible:

  • Wall storage. Instead of piles of stuff on the floor, elevate it with wall shelving, hooks, and other vertical storage. Add built-ins if you can; shelving and storage built into walls keep your space clear and recesses it so you have less intrusion into the living space.

  • Foldable furniture. Furniture that mounts to the wall and folds away is crucial because it allows you to transform the space in seconds and keeps your floor space clear. Dining tables, desks, and folding chairs or wall-mounted chairs vanish when not needed but can be deployed in seconds.

  • Wall-mounted lighting. Having floor lamps everywhere clutters up a space. Moving your lighting to the walls eliminates the tangle of power cords and gives you more floor space to work with.

Finally, instead of trying to divide your small space into even tinier dedicated spaces for an office, dining, and other activities, try to remove as many dividers as possible to open up the space. When everything is stowed and folded away, the space will feel larger and brighter without sacrificing utility.

Double duty

The second key to furnishing a small space is to look for furniture that can serve double duty:

  • Storage. Look for beds, sofas, ottomans, and other pieces that double as storage. You have to sit on something, after all, so why not cram it full of your stuff?

  • Multipurpose. Furniture that offers more than one use allows you to reduce the number of pieces you’re trying to fit into a small space. For example, an extendable C-table can be a side table for your couch, a dining space, and an office desk all in one. You can also use an ottoman as a coffee table simply by placing a topper tray on it, getting three uses out of one piece if it also has storage.

What to Consider Before Buying a New Kitchen Faucet

No one thinks too hard about their kitchen faucet—until it's time to spend real money on a new one. Whether you’re installing a whole new kitchen or just looking to update around the edges by replacing your existing faucet (or your faucet betrayed you and stopped working properly), you’ve suddenly realized there are many more decisions involved in choosing a kitchen faucet than you might have imagined.

Choosing the right faucet for your kitchen is an important decision. Not only is the faucet front-and-center in your design, making its look a crucial aspect of any remodel, but it’s also something you’re probably going to touch and use multiple times every single day. The wrong choice will doom you to that tiny wince of disappointment every time you wash a dish—or actually diminish your kitchen’s usability and efficiency. Don’t worry, though: Choosing the right kitchen faucet isn’t as hard as it might initially appear.

Measurements

Before you start thinking about the style and function of your faucet you should take some measurements. Faucets aren’t a generic fixture where one size fits all—the dimensions of your kitchen will have to be factored into your decision.

First, measure your sink—width, height, and depth. Measure from the center of the faucet mount (typically one or more holes right behind your sink, but see below for more possibilities) to the center of the sink. You’ll want to make sure your faucet doesn’t extend farther than that, or you’ll have a hard time not spraying water all over your floors.

Measure from the back edge of the sink to the wall. Unless you’re going with a wall-mounted faucet, you need to check that the faucet you select will fit in that space without having its movement inhibited. Then measure from the countertop to the bottom of the cabinets above (if there are any). Faucets can range from pretty short to very, very tall, so you’ll want to know just how tall you manage.

  • Pro tip: If you’re installing a counter-mounted faucet, add a few inches to this measurement, because you might need extra vertical inches when installing the faucet. It will have to be lifted up so its stem can be placed into the hole drilled for it. If your upper cabinet doesn’t allow enough room to manipulate the faucet into place, you’ll have a problem.

Finally, if replacing an existing faucet, look at how it’s installed. Count the number of holes you’re dealing with (typically ranging from one to five) and measure their diameter. It’s possible to go from a faucet that uses more holes to one that uses fewer—and it’s possible to drill new holes if you want to reverse that—but that should be part of the plan, not a sudden surprise when you unpack your new faucet and start installing it.

Now that you know the basic dimensions you’re dealing with, you can think about the style of faucet that defines you as a person.

Styles

When it comes to kitchen faucets, there are a range of basic styles to choose from. There’s some overlap here, and plenty of variations, so the answer to the question of how many styles of kitchen faucet there are will vary depending on who you’re asking, but the basics boil down to:

  • Single-handle. Yup, this has exactly one handle. You move it horizontally and vertically to adjust pressure and the mix of hot and cold water. These are ideal for small spaces (especially limited counter space, since they can be installed in a single hole). The downside is that you will never figure out how to balance the hot and cold water properly.

  • Double-handle. If you have a bit more room or just like the look, a faucet with two handles will give you more precise control over the temperature mix. These can require anywhere from one to three holes.

  • Bridge. A bridge faucet is a double-handle faucet with the two handles connected to the center spout in a kind of upside-down “T” configuration. They require one to three holes and are usually best for larger sinks.

  • Wall. A wall-mounted faucet pops out of the wall in front of the sink. These require plumbing to be run up into the wall and aren’t easy to add to an existing kitchen—you’ll have to open up the wall and hire a plumber. But if you have a small counter or an undermount sink that prevents you from drilling holes into your countertop, a wall-mounted faucet is the right choice.

It comes down to how much space you have and how important it is to control the temperature of your water. Small space and don’t care? A single-handle will work best. Big sink and need to get within three degrees of your target temp? A double-handle or bridge-style faucet is best.

Details

Once you know the basic style you want, it’s time to get down to the details:

  • Holes. As mentioned above, unless you’re installing a wall-mounted model, most faucets require anywhere from one to five holes drilled into the counter. There’s some flexibility here—you can buy deck (aka escutcheon) plates (some faucets come with deck plates provided) that cover up holes you don’t need with your new faucet. You can also buy bridge-style and double-handle faucets that only need one or two holes, despite having separate hot and cold taps. And if you’re willing, you can drill additional holes into your counter to accommodate a different style of faucet. But the easiest thing to do will always be to choose a faucet that uses the same number of holes as your existing one.

    If you have more than one hole, you can also consider installing a faucet with a separate sprayer or a soap dispenser—or both.

  • Spout. The spout is where the water comes out, and there are a few considerations:

    • Straight. A straight spout just out at an upward angle, which allows it to fit under low cabinets or other situations where there isn’t much clearance. These can either swivel from side to side or be stationary.

    • Arched. You might see these referred to as “goosenecked” faucets; the spout curves down like the handle of an upside-down umbrella. These usually require more vertical space. Additionally, look back at your measurements to make sure the arch doesn’t come out too far—it should be positioned over the center of the sink. There are also versions of the arched spout referred to as “pre-rinse” or “professional” faucets—these are the kind with the spring coils and fancy extras designed for a commercial kitchen. They are designed to have a high flow rate to blast dirty dishes or rinse off items during food prep. These can look cool in your non-professional kitchen (and be useful if you cook a lot), but also require more vertical space.

    • Vessel. A vessel-style faucet is designed to work with vessel sinks. They tend to be taller with a very short spout, and won’t work well with a traditional or undermount sink.

  • Sprayer. These days most faucets will include a sprayer feature. This can be either a separate piece (requiring its own hole in the counter), or incorporated into the spout in one of two ways:

    • Pull-down sprayers are typically found on arched spouts. You pull down to use them.

    • Pull-out sprayers are usually used with straight spouts. You pull them out, towards you, to use them.

  • Valves. The way a faucet controls the flow of water matters; there are four fundamental valve designs, each with their own pros and cons:

    • Ball. A ball faucet has a single handle on top that rotates a ball-shaped valve to open or close the hot and cold water supply. These tend to be the most affordable, but also the most leak-prone.

    • Cartridge. These faucets house the valve assembly inside a replaceable cartridge. That makes them relative easy to repair although your mileage will vary on how long the cartridge lasts, as they are susceptible to hard-water buildup.

    • Compression. This is old-school: You turn the handle and washers open and closed to control water flow (you still see these commonly on hose spigots). They tend to leak, but are usually pretty easy to fix with a new washer.

    • Ceramic disc. The newest valve technology in use, ceramic valves are not prone to leaks and last longer than other valves. This makes them generally the best choice.

Extras

There are some other considerations when you’re looking for a faucet that you should consider:

  • Filters. Some faucets have a built-in water filtering feature that lets you get clean, purified water directly from the tap.

  • Lighting. Some kitchen faucets have LED lighting capabilities, which can be helpful when using the faucet in low-light situations. Some LED faucets also change the color of the LED light based on the temperature of the water, giving you a visual clue whether you’re about to put your hands in lava or a glacier.

  • Touch/Touchless. Just like everything else these days, you can buy “smart” faucets with varying degrees of, er, smart. The features typically include the ability to turn on your faucet either by tapping it, via motion sensing, or even voice activation. This can be a great feature if you routinely have dirty, grimy hands and don’t want to get your shiny faucet dirty, or if you just like bossing your kitchen around.

Finally, consider how you’ll use your faucet. If you routinely cook elaborate meals, a high arch with touchless activation may make the most sense. Consider your kitchen to be the place where you store your soda in the fridge and your shoes in the oven? A simple straight faucet might suffice. And, of course, you can also simply buy a faucet because it looks cool.

Five Ways You Could Be Using the Space Above Your Kitchen Cabinets

Unless your kitchen cabinets go all the way up to the ceiling, there’s probably a foot or so of vertical space that currently does nothing but collect dust, even if you've maybe never given it much thought. In our storage-starved modern lives, though, having a void like that in our homes is truly a waste—because there are several ways you could be putting that empty space to work for you.

Storage

The most obvious use for that space is extra storage. You can opt to build built-in cabinet extensions (essentially wooden boxes that match the dimensions of your existing cabinets), but this essentially brings your cabinetry up to the ceiling, which you’ll probably wind up regretting because it will be a real pain to get anything down from there, and you’ll forget what’s hidden in those cabinets faster than you think.

That doesn’t mean you can’t use this space for storage, though—you just have to be thoughtful about what and how you store stuff in that space:

  • Opt for rarely used items. The best things to put up in that space are things that you’re not going to use often. Those big gift platters from your wedding you’ve used once in ten years? Perfect!

  • Arrange it artfully. The key is to manage the visual impact of the stuff you store up there. Stack matching items from large to small, and place the tallest stacks in the center and arrange everything in size order extending to the sides. This is why you want stuff you rarely use up there, so the time you put into arranging everything won’t be wasted. Stick to one “variety” of stuff, too: Bowls and serving plates, or fancy appliances you never use—not both haphazardly mixed together. Since it’s so visible, you want it to look cohesive, not haphazard.

  • Keep it clean. The space above your cabinets gets dusty—and greasy. No matter how powerful your hood vent is, cooking will grease up that space over time, so be prepared to dust and clean on a semi-regular basis.

Decoration

In a similar vein, you can simply use that space to decorate. Instead of placing actual kitchen implements and appliances up there, just make a pretty arrangement using decorative stuff like vases, houseplants, or any other kind of bric-a-brac that matches well with your existing kitchen look and design. A few other ideas for decorating the space include baskets or other artsy items—or forego actual objects and use wallpaper or stick-on tiles to add a pop of graphic color to the area.

Display

If you’re thinking of using the space for decoration, consider combining that idea with a little more purpose and turn it into a display area for:

  • Collections. If you have a habit of collecting items—figurines, decorative plates, old radios—why leave them boxed up somewhere or hidden away? Whatever it is, display your collection up on top of those cabinets. This will create a focal conversation point for guests, and let you actually enjoy your collection.

  • Books. The top of your cabinets is an almost ideal spot for books. Cookbooks would be the most obvious choice, but any library will work up there from a design point of view. For extra points, choose books of similar dimensions, and be thoughtful about the color of the spines (if arranging them that way) or the way the front covers work together if placing them face-out.

  • Photos or art. That empty space could also be a perfect spot for some framed pictures or some of the art you’ve picked up along the way. Some nice photos of your friends or family, pictures you’ve picked up from local artists (or that you made yourself), or any grouping of beautiful objects can transform your kitchen into a gallery as well.

Pro tip: You can rotate your displays like an art gallery as well, marking every dinner party and game day with a fresh display of art on top of your cabinets.

Wine rack

An excellent use for that weird space is a place to store your growing collection of wine. If you’re the sort who picks up a bottle at the grocery to drink immediately, this won’t make sense, but if you enjoy tasting wine and buy it by the carton to savor over time, you know that finding a place to store it can be a challenge (unless you have a wine cellar under your house, you fancy person).

You could simply add some freestanding wine racks like this up there. For a more ambitious project, you could build a built-in wine rack like this, which would have the advantage of keeping your bottles dust-free.

Chalkboard

An easy way to make use of that space is to paint it with a high-quality chalkboard paint (optional: using chalkboard paint as your backsplash as well to tie everything together). You can then decorate any way you want using colored chalk, or use the space as a menu display for dinner parties, a can’t-miss message board for the family, a calendar marking monthly events, or a place to doodle creatively whenever you feel like it.

Easy (and Cheap) Home Upgrades That Make a Big Difference

It happens to everything we acquire in life: The initial excitement wears off. Your house is a great example; after a while, you simply get used to living there, and all the little details that made you fall in love with the place fade into the background. Then one day you wake up and your beloved house feels kind of old and tired.

One solution is a huge renovation project, but just thinking about the time, expense, and effort involved can make you feel old and tired (also: broke). You don’t, however, need to rip everything out of your house to make it feel fresh and new again—there are a lot of small changes that cost little money, require little effort, and have a lot of impact.

Kitchen cabinet hardware

When people consider ways to refresh or upgrade their kitchens, they often jump to sizable renovations like painting or replacing cabinets. But changing out the hinges and pulls can have a dramatic effect on the look of your kitchen cabinetry—and its function. Depending on the size of your kitchen, replacing the hardware can cost as little as $150.

You could also consider painting your existing pulls—changing from a metallic finish to a matte black, for example, can have quite an impact for the cost of some primer and a can of paint.

For a real upgrade, switch out the basic hinges on your cabinets for soft-close hinges. These can make even cheap cabinets feel luxe, and will be legitimate life-changers if you’re often startled by a spouse, roommate, or child slamming a kitchen cabinet with unnecessary violence.

Doors

The doors in your house have a subtle but powerful effect on how you perceive the space. Cheap, hollow-body doors can make a house feel cheap, and a shabby, basic entrance door conveys a sense of boring neutrality and anonymity to your home. Replacing all those doors can be expensive, but you don’t need to—just like your kitchen cabinets, swapping out the basic hardware (hinges, handles, and latches) for upgraded versions is affordable, easy, and completely changes the visuals.

Painting your entrance door a bright, bold color can change how your home is perceived, upping curb appeal and even increasing your home’s value. For some extra cheap impact, add some magnetic doorstops to hold your doors open when you’re bringing in groceries or carrying stuff from room to room.

Toilet seats

Chances are you don’t think about the toilet seats in your house very often. But an old, discolored, basic toilet seat makes your entire bathroom experience feel old and basic. Upgrading to a new one is a fresh start that revamps your toilet for about $50 (and gives you the chance to give it a deep clean). Making your new seat soft-close will also add an element of quiet luxury to your daily routines. And, heck, for a few dollars more you can get a heated seat with a nightlight that could quite possibly change your life.

Light fixtures

For some reason, we often regard light fixtures as permanent and unchangeable. But if you have some basic big-box store “boob” style lights in your house, simply changing them to something with a smidge more style can elevate the look and feel of the entire place for cheap. For an extra boost, change your light switches to dimmer switches so you can set a mood in every room, instantly adding luxury to your space.

It’s also worth adding light where it’s lacking. Some adhesive undercabinet lights in your kitchen not only improve its usability, they can add ambiance and make your kitchen feel upgraded for less than $20. And adding some motion-sensor lights to any closet or pantry will make the space feel fancier, while also making it easier to use.

Bathroom trim

We spend a lot of time in our bathrooms, so the environment there is a big part of how we feel about our home in general. If you’re comfortable in the bathroom, you’ll carry that sense throughout your day. You don’t need a full-on bath remodel or new tile to make your bathroom feel more luxurious. All you need to do in many cases is replace the existing trim with fresh, new, modern versions. Swapping out the towel racks, toilet paper holders, and other trim pieces will have a dramatic effect on the look and feel of your bathroom for very little money.

And while you’re at it, if you have a shower curtain, consider adding a curved curtain rod. Curved rods instantly make a cramped shower feel more spacious—and they cut down on those horrifying moments when a slimy, wet curtain wraps itself around you like some sort of sea monster.

New faucets

If you feel like your kitchen and bathrooms are a bit tired and dated but can’t put your finger on why, look at your faucets. Are they the same builder-grade ones you’ve had for years? Or were they part of a dramatic remodel that happened 15 years ago? Faucets are one of the easiest things to change out in your home, and one of the easiest ways to introduce a dramatic new design element to a kitchen or bath without gutting them. If you want a brand-new feel, go for something very different—replace a single-handle faucet with a bridge faucet, for example, or do an overhaul of the finishes in either room. If you’ve been living in a satin nickel world for a while, a switch to stainless or gold might wake up your senses and make your home feel new again.

USB charging outlets

Something many people get blind to in their homes is the mass of extension cords, charging cables, and power strips they’re using. They solve the immediate problem of providing power where it’s needed, but having a home filled with them looks messy and subtly makes you—and everyone else—feel that your house is old, because it can’t provide the charging that modern life needs.

Replacing your power outlets with new ones that incorporate USB charging ports will help modernize your house and clear away at least some of the cables snaking their way through your life without breaking the bank. Cheap and relatively easy to install, having these all over the place means you can plug in your phone and other devices any time you think of it, without having to run an extra cord or power strip from the wall to the couch.

A Micro Combined Heat and Power Generator Will Make Your Home More Energy Efficient

Reducing energy costs is a top priority for homeowners these days—not to mention having an efficient and reliable home energy system. Home heating is often a high energy user, so having an efficient system for that can reduce your energy costs significantly. Imagine if you could combine efficient heating with power production. You can: it's called a micro combined heat and power (mCHP) generator.

Where did mCHP generators come from?

Originally designed for use in manufacturing, combined heat and power generators are single appliances that can generate power from propane at the same time as they generate heat and hot water. The system can be self-contained so that it doesn’t rely on electricity from the grid and can include solar and battery storage, making it resilient during power outages as well. A micro CHP or mCHP generator is the same idea, but scaled for individual homes.

Micro CHP generators are extremely efficient

A mCHP generator captures excess heat produced by its generator engine and uses it to produce usable heat and hot water for a home. According to Oak Ridge National Laboratory, mCHP generator technology can reach 93% efficiency—about 60% better than the average efficiency of power coming from the grid. Even at its worst, an mCHP generator will work at about 35% energy efficiency, which is 2% better than average grid performance.

Micro CHP generators are more expensive to install

Since mCHP generators usually require retrofitting to add to an existing system, installing them is likely more expensive than other options. The simplest installations can start at around $5,000 and the largest, most complicated installations can cost around $40,000 as compared to between $4,000 and $25,000 for a traditional whole-house generator. The cost of installation is heavily dependent on the area you live, the size of your system, and the complexity of the system, including the volume of hot water you need and the area of your home you need to heat.

How to calculate your energy savings with mCHP

It’s not easy to predict even the average savings that an mCHP system can produce because of the variable cost of fuel, the variable low temperature regionally, and the efficiency (or lack thereof) of your current system. However, taking into account your current energy usage (found on your electric bill as kilowatt hours (kWh)) as well as the amount and cost of the fuel you currently use for heating if you use natural gas, oil, or other fuel, and then comparing that usage against the average expected fuel usage for an mCHP generator sized for your home, you can get some idea of your potential savings. If your mCHP system saves you an average of 15% of energy expended, you can expect around 15% savings on your bill. However, the savings when using an mCHP system is heavily dependent on the circumstances of your particular system, so it’s important to calculate your needs in conjunction with an mCHP specialist to make sure it’s actually a savings for you.

How to find a contractor that can install an mCHP generator

The Combined Heat and Power Alliance lists their members, many of whom are manufacturers and contractors that specialize in mCHP generators. That could be a good starting point to search for a reliable installation specialist for your job. You can also try looking at local natural gas utilities, as they sometimes partner with installers that specialize in equipment that uses natural gas, like mCHP generators. Since the technology is still emerging in the U.S., you might have to do some digging to find a contractor. Make sure to read reviews and ask lots of questions before choosing one, to make sure you’re hiring someone who has experience installing mCHP systems.

Building a DIY Solar Panel Is Surprisingly Straightforward

Solar energy is magic, really. You place a bulky panel in the sun and electricity is created from thin air, ready to power anything you need. It’s cheap, pays for itself in a relatively short period of time, and it’s absolutely renewable. Of course, the cost of installing a solar panel system at your home can be kind of terrifying—on average, it’ll cost you about $25,000. A lot of that cost is labor and other materials, but the solar panels themselves aren’t exactly cheap, ranging in price from around $200 to $300 depending on wattage and the type of panel.

Those prices might lead you to wonder if you can’t just make your own solar panels. The answer is, you sure can. If you’re moderately handy, have ever used a soldering iron, and understand basic electricity principles, you can definitely whip up your own solar panels. All the stuff you need can be ordered online or found at your local hardware store, and the process isn’t very difficult. Keep in mind, however, that building your own panel will likely cost as much if not more than buying a professionally-assembled panel, so you shouldn’t think of this as a way to save a lot of money.

Solar panel DIY materials

Solar panels are surprisingly simple things. You need just a few basic materials:

  • Photovoltaic (PV) cells. This is the silicon-based material that actually absorbs sunlight and converts it to electricity. You can buy these online pretty easily, so it’s just a matter of deciding how much power you want to generate and purchasing enough to get you there. If you’re looking for a super cheap DIY approach, you could even buy a bunch of $1.50 solar lights from a dollar store and extract the small cells in them for a cheap array of solar cells.

    If you're feeling really ambitious, you can go full-on DIY—using copper sheets, you can create your own PV cells. But the cells you make in your kitchen won’t last nearly as long or produce nearly as much power as even the cheapest manufactured cells, so if your goal is power over DIY cred you should just buy your cells.

  • Tabbing wire. This is flat wire used to connect cells together into “strings.”

  • Liquid silicone. This will be used to seal your connected PV cells. John Burke, chair of the American Solar Energy Society Photovoltaics Division, recommends DC 184 from Dow for this, but any clear liquid silicone will work.

  • Solder and soldering iron. If you don’t already have these, you can pick up lead-free solder and an iron at any hardware store.

  • Caulk or glue. Use 100% silicone caulk to seal up your panel. In a pinch, a strong glue can also be used, but won’t be as waterproof as caulk.

  • Encapsulation material. Once you’ve connected your cells into strings and sealed them in silicone, you’ll need to encapsulate them further—PV cells are delicate things and need to be kept free from dirt and damage. Your best bet is to seal them between two sheets of glass. But if you have or have access to a laminating machine, you can also laminate your panel. This won’t be as durable as glass, but will work just fine.

  • Multimeter. A multimeter tool is optional, but recommended because you should test your connections throughout the assembly to ensure that nothing has broken or become detached, and that you’re getting the wattage you expected.

If you’re more focused on the fun of assembling your own solar panel, keep in mind you can purchase DIY kits that provide everything you’ll need to build a small panel.

How to make DIY solar panels

Once you have all your materials, you can begin assembling your DIY solar panel:

  1. Lay out your PV cells in a grid. You’re setting up “strings” of cells—a line of cells that will be wired together into one connected row. A typical panel layout is four strings of nine cells each, for a total of 36 cells. It’s a good idea to use a ruler and create a neat grid so that all your wiring lines up perfectly. You can use tile spacers to ensure you’ve got a tight layout.

  2. Measure your tabbing wire so you have two lengths that will stretch from top to bottom of your strings.

  3. Solder the tabbing wire from the front of the first PV cell to the back of the next one, connecting positive to negative. Repeat until your strings of cells are all soldered together. If you’re using multiple strings, connect them by running wire across the top and bottom where the wires stick out and soldering it all together.

  4. Test. This is a good moment to break out that multimeter and make sure your connections are good and you’re getting the power you expect from them. if you’re not, investigate and re-solder where necessary.

  5. First encapsulation with liquid silicone. Mix your silicone and then gently apply, using a soft brush to spread the silicone. Make sure you leave our wires out so they can be connected to a battery or whatever it is you plan to charge. Let the first layer dry, then apply a second coat.

  6. Second encapsulation. Place your cell strings on a glass plate. Making sure no dirt or other contaminants get inside, place a second glass plate on top. Again, make sure your wires are outside the encapsulation so they can be connected. Seal with caulk.

That’s it. If you connected everything correctly, you should now get some usable juice when you place your panel in the sun. You can build a plywood frame for the glass panels for extra durability, if desired.

If you want to get a little fancier with your DIY solar panel you can incorporate more durable frames, pegboards for a super tight grid, and other enhancements. If you want a bit of a deep dive into the science and engineering behind solar energy and DIY solar panels, you can download the free PDF To Catch the Sun by Lonny Grafman, an Instructor of Environmental Resources Engineering and Appropriate Technology at Humboldt State University and Joshua Pearce, a professor at Western University in Ontario.

The Wireless Power Tools Every Homeowner Should Own

There’s nothing more frustrating than beginning a project and discovering that you can’t find your drill or losing your work light somewhere in the dark while you’re trying to finish something. Have you ever started sanding and forgotten to turn on your shop vac, making your dust collection system useless? Luckily, our power tools are getting smarter, and wireless technology is making inroads into our home workshops and garages. 

DeWalt tools with wireless tracking

DeWalt has a line of wireless connected drills and work lights and tool trackers that allows you to track your tools within range of your device’s Bluetooth, and can alert you if your tools leave the range of your home. In addition, the “last seen” function in the free to download DeWalt app available on Google Play and iOS allows you to track where your lost tool was the last time it connected with your device. This can help find stolen or lost tools even if they’re out of range.

For an average DIY enthusiast, DeWalt’s wireless tracking system is likely the most useful for their impact driver ($179) and drill ($149), as these are commonly misplaced tools, but the tool tags are also a good addition; they can be attached to anything or put into a tool bag for easy location.

Milwaukee tools with wireless tracking and maintenance

Milwaukee offers wireless connectivity on 70 of its line of tools, using its One Key system that will track tools through its free app available on Google Play and iOS. The tracking tool allows you to locate lost tools, turn work lights on and off, and get alerts when your tools need maintenance.

For most home shops, the most practical wireless tool from Milwaukee will be the impact driver kit ($349) that comes with a case, battery, and charger. Since the Milwaukee wireless system is currently mostly marketed to pro shops, many of the tools will be more expensive than your average home DIY enthusiast can afford, but as the technology becomes more common, it will likely get cheaper to access.

Makita wireless automated dust collection

If you’re a woodworker or someone who uses power saws and sanders a lot, you’re probably already familiar with dust collection as a way to reduce mess and improve the air quality in your home workshop. But if you’re like me, you might sometimes forget to turn it on when you need it, giving yourself a face full of sawdust and making a mess, too.

The Makita LXT Dust Extractor tool ($445.99) will pair with any other LXT-compatible tool, like a sander ($117.97), to automatically start when you start the tool. If you’re switching between tools, no problem, the dust collection system can pair with up to 10 tools at once, making transfer between your saw ($259) and your router ($149.18) as simple as swapping out the hose.

Bosch wireless and cordless tools

If you’ve ever had the sun go down on you while you’re working, only to discover that you can’t find your work light in the dark, there’s a tool for that.

The Bosch connected cordless 1,200 lumen work light ($69) can be controlled using the Bosch Toolbox app, available on Google Play and iOS. If you lose your light, you can turn it on from your phone if you’re in Bluetooth range.

The Bosch connected laser distance measure ($101.68) is a multifunction tool that will help you measure distances and angles, and its Bluetooth connectivity feature that works with the toolbox also allows you to snap photos of your measurements and record on the photo, skipping some note-taking steps along the way.

How to Turn a Terrible Couch Into a Comfortable Couch

Buying furniture is like buying shoes: What feels right for 30 seconds in the store often becomes an uncomfortable mistake once you get it home. A couch is a fundamental part of the living space—it’s where we relax, read, watch TV, even eat dinner. There’s nothing more comforting than being able to drop into a comfortable couch that envelopes you and supports you through whatever activity you’ve got cued up.

On the opposite end of that spectrum is a hell couch that hurts your back, slowly slides you onto the floor, or makes you feel like you’re sitting on a burlap sack. A bad couch can bring down the rest of your life, but couches tend to be expensive, bulky purchases that can be difficult to return or replace. If you’re living with an uncomfortable couch, don’t despair: There are several things you can do to transform a terrible couch into a comfortable one.

Problem: Scratchy fabric

Upholstery fabric can be very difficult to evaluate in a showroom—and if you’re shopping online, it’s impossible. You can look for data like rub counts, but spending a few seconds touching the fabric in the store will never be the same as actually sitting on it regularly for weeks and months. And you can literally be allergic to the upholstery of your furniture—“sofa dermatitis” is a thing, and symptoms won’t always show after a very brief encounter.

Solution: If your couch makes you itchy, is unpleasant to the touch, or causes allergic reactions, a simple couch cover can solve the problem pretty economically. Properly applied, a couch cover will completely hide the offending fabric, and you can probably find one that mimics the original color pretty closely. If you don’t have any extra cash to throw around on fancy covers, a blanket or two draped over the couch and pushed neatly into the cushions will get the job done.

Problem: Too hard or soft

Determining whether a couch is too hard or too soft takes time. Couches that feel like dreamy clouds in a store can become uncomfortably mushy over longer periods of time, and a super hard couch might feel supportive at first but take a toll on your spine over the long haul.

Solution: The most comprehensive approach would be to swap out the foam cushions inside the covers (assuming you can easily unzip the covers and remove the foam). Pull out the cushions and measure them, then either order some replacement foam and cut new cushions yourself or visit a company that will cut custom cushions for you. Once you have your replacements, just push them into the covers, re-zip, and replace.

If that’s more of a project than you want, there are some easier strategies to try:

  • For couches that are too hard, you can try a little patience, rotating the cushions every few days. Over time, flipping them around may soften them up evenly, getting rid of that uncomfortable stiffness. You can also try layering a thick blanket on top of the seat cushions, and soften the back with some throw pillows or another thick blanket.

  • For a couch that’s too soft, you can try putting a thin layer of firm foam on top of the existing cushion; this may give you just enough support.

Problem: Not deep enough

You get your new couch home and discover that sitting on it forces you to lean forward slightly because it’s not deep enough to lean back comfortably. You’re doomed to a life of literally leaning in to every TV show you watch.

Solution: You can try a few things to adjust the experience:

  • Unzip the back cushions and investigate the foam cushion. If it’s layers of separate pieces, try removing one layer at a time until you reach the desired depth. Alternatively, replace the foam entirely with a thinner batch. Or, if you’re desperate, remove the back cushions entirely and use some larger throw pillows instead.

  • Add some footstools or ottomans. These can act as extensions of the couch, letting you stretch out more even if the seat of the couch is a little narrow. Pro tip bonus: Buy a storage ottoman and deal with your clutter at the same time.

Problem: Sagging or sliding cushions

Sometimes a couch is stealthily uncomfortable. Brand new, it feels great, and it remains that way for a while. Slowly, however, the cushions slide, folding you in half in unnoticeable increments, or the whole seat starts to sag until climbing out of your couch doubles as a core workout.

Solution: These are pretty common problems with couches, and modern capitalism has jumped into the fray. For sagging cushions, a product like a SagsAway insert can help. Placed inside the cushion cover, this stiff foam insert can bring your cushions back to firm, supportive life. If your seat cushion is one long piece or you can’t or don’t want to open them up, you can also purchase products designed to slide under the cushions that can offer the same stiffening effect—in fact, a piece of scrap plywood cut to size can have a similar impact.

For cushions that seem to enjoy slowly disgorging you onto the floor, some nonslip padding under your cushions can provide enough friction to hold them in place (if you have rug pads lying around, those will work just as well). If that’s not sufficient, some hook-and-loop (aka Velcro) adhesive tape can hold your cushions in place very effectively.

Problem: Wrong height

If you feel like you can never get comfortable on your couch but can’t figure out why, it’s probably the wrong height. We often don’t think about height when picking out a couch, and many modern designs have embraced a low-to-the-floor, sleek profile that is not always the most comfortable.

Solution: A simple, cheap solution is to pick up some furniture risers and raise your couch a few inches. Make sure you purchase adjustable risers that can go higher or lower so you can experiment with different heights to see at what level you’re most comfortable.

If the couch seems too tall, you can remove the legs and place the couch directly on the floor (be cognizant of staples or other metal parts on the bottom of the couch that might scratch your floors—placing a mat of some sort underneath is advisable). You can also replace the legs with shorter versions if you can find some that match your furniture's style. If the legs won’t come off, you could consider sawing down wooden legs, but that could impact future use of the couch and you’ll only get one chance to guess the right height, so proceed with caution.

Six Ways You’re Guaranteed to Annoy Your New Neighbors (and How to Avoid Them)

Moving to a new house and a new neighborhood can be stressful. There’s all the work required in packing up your stuff and making all the arrangements, then all the work involved in unpacking all your stuff and getting your new space set up and squared away. So many logistical things can go wrong it’s no wonder that moving to a new house is one of the most stressful things people can go through.

On top of all the logistical aspects of moving, you’re also introducing yourself to a new community of people—people you’re going to be living next to and interacting with for the foreseeable future. And most people are already annoyed with at least some of their neighbors—which is why it’s essential that you think about the impression you’re going to make ahead of time. It’s surprisingly easy to irritate your new neighbors before you’ve unloaded the last box from the moving truck.

Getting the garbage wrong

Every local community handles waste and recycling differently. In some areas, you just toss a bag on the curb and it magically vanishes; in others there will be strict requirements around sealing garbage cans against rodents and even stricter rules about when garbage can be put out and even the precise location of your bins.

One of the easiest ways to irritate your neighbors is to put your garbage out on the wrong day, at the wrong time, and in the wrong receptacles—especially on those first days after your move, when you’ve generated a spectacular amount of garbage. And you’ll make it even worse and move yourself into straight-up villain mode if you just leave it there for days on end instead of admitting your mistake and gathering it up to put out again on the correct night. If you think there isn’t at least one neighbor who will drop a dime on you to the local government and make sure a fine arrives in the mail, you’re probably wrong, so it pays to look up all the disposal details ahead of time.

Blocking driveways, roads, and sidewalks

Moving is a huge operation. There’s typically an enormous truck involved, a swarm of movers, and your own vehicle crammed full of boxes and (towards the end of the packing process) garbage bags and other random receptacles filled with your possessions. When invading your new neighborhood an easy way to annoy everyone is to block their driveways and make it difficult or even impossible to drive past.

This goes for the sidewalks, too. Just because this is your Moving Day doesn’t mean your new neighbors have cleared their schedules, and making them walk in the street while you move your belongings isn’t going to endear you to them. Being considerate and managing the movers and all involved vehicles might be maddening, but it’s worth it to get off on the right foot.

Not wrangling kids and pets

Moving day is chaos incarnate. There are so many moving parts, it’s easy to lose track of several. If you want to really annoy the people you’ll be texting on NextDoor from now on, make sure the things you lose track of are your young children and your pets. Nothing chills a new neighbor’s heart like a bunch of strange kids tearing through their backyards, or a dog that won’t stop barking (or tearing up their flower beds). In fact, barking dogs are one of the top things that annoy neighbors in general, so imagine that’s how you introduce yourself to them.

Trespassing

No, we’re not suggesting that you’ll spend your first few hours or days in the neighborhood casually invading people’s homes. But in the chaos of moving you might park your car somewhere you’re not supposed to, or leave a pile of stuff on someone’s property, or mistake a private amenity like a swing set or an outdoor grill for a shared amenity.

A new neighborhood is just that—new—so you might be excused for not having all the property lines memorized on your first day on the block. But you should at least make an effort to be cognizant of the property lines, and respectful of other people’s space and things.

Not introducing yourself

When folks notice you’re moving in next door, they’ll take an interest. One way to sour them on you right away is to ignore them or be generally aloof. A wave and a polite introduction will go a long way towards ensuring the neighborhood email chain trends positive when it comes to your local Q rating.

In a recent survey, 28% of respondents stated they disliked a neighbor simply because they gave off a “weird vibe.” Which I think we all understand, on some level. But it also means that you have one chance to not be the “weird vibe” neighbor—and you’d better take it.

Messing up deliveries

Moving into a new home more than likely means you’re ordering a lot of stuff. Old, used stuff gets thrown away, big, bulky things get left behind, and your new house has rooms or other infrastructure your old one lacked, and now you have to order a box of smart light bulbs or three new sets of sheets. If all those delivered boxes wind up being left with neighbors you haven’t met yet they’re going to be irritated. If you can’t ask a few neighbors to be on package duty while you run around trying to cram your whole life into a new home, try to manage the chaos by putting up a large sign for deliveries with your phone number and/or instructions on where to leave packages.

How Graphene Batteries Are Poised to Revolutionize Cordless Power Tools

Cordless tools have been making strides over the past few years, as batteries become more advanced, smaller, and lighter. Lithium ion batteries have been slowly increasing their capacity and run time while shrinking in size and weight. But there’s a new material on the market for cordless tools: graphene, a lightweight material that has changed the battery game.

Graphene is a nano material

The basic structure of graphene is a single layer of carbon atoms that are spread out in a hexagonal shape to form a film. It’s so thin that it’s almost two-dimensional, and because of its shape, it’s highly conductive of both heat and electricity. Its unique shape makes it extremely strong for its thickness as well. Graphene batteries are being used for a wide range of projects, from electric vehicles to NASA’s flight program.

Graphene batteries charge faster and can power larger tools

Because graphene is so conductive, adding it to a traditional lithium ion battery can reduce charging time by three times. Graphene is 100 times more conductive than copper, to give you some idea of how much faster charging could become with graphene. This means needing fewer batteries on hand, as you won’t need to wait as long to charge one if you’re working on a big project. This technology can make cordless tools more practical even for larger projects. 

Since the material allows for faster charging, it also allows for faster discharging, meaning that batteries with graphene can yield enough power for larger tools that use more power. Using a battery-powered chainsaw or concrete drill that runs for more than an hour could be in our near future. Cordless tools that are already popular like sanders and drills can benefit from increased torque.

Graphene batteries have a longer run time

Increased efficiency for graphene batteries also means longer run time, allowing you to go for hours between charges. Imagine running your shop tools until lunchtime and then charging batteries on a lunch break and using them for the rest of the day. Graphene batteries are also more heat resistant, allowing them to work for longer without overheating.

Where to find tools with graphene batteries

Right now, the only manufacturer on the market making tools with graphene batteries is CAT. Their 18-volt graphene battery is available at Lowe’s for $169.99. Since these batteries are only compatible with CAT tools for now, you’ll need to have that brand of cordless tools to benefit from the technology. The good news is that the graphene batteries are compatible with the CAT 1 For All system, so they will work with most existing CAT tools you might have.

Drawbacks to graphene batteries

Since graphene is a relatively new material, the batteries are more expensive—almost twice as much as a traditional lithium ion battery. There’s a limited selection of tools to choose from at the moment that will work with the current batteries, and unless you have a CAT cordless system already, you would need to replace any tools you have to match with the new CAT graphene batteries.

What to expect in the future

As the technology develops, graphene will likely become more widely available for a wider range of cordless tools. Rumors are circulating that some other major cordless tool brands are working on graphene batteries for their tools, so keep an eye out for those in the near future. As the technology becomes more widely available, graphene batteries should also become more affordable.

How to Stop Jerks From Blocking Your Driveway

As anyone who drives regularly knows, owning a car can be an exercise in deep frustration, especially when it comes to a lack of parking spaces. As a person who used to spend literal hours hunting for street parking in my crowded little town, I know that a driveway literally makes your life better. No matter how frustrating your drive home was, at least you know you won’t have any trouble parking the car.

Unless people decide to park in front of your driveway and block it. Driveways can become targets, especially when street parking is slim in your neighborhood. Some folks think it’s totally okay to block your driveway for “quick” stops, as if you could never possibly have an emergency and need to go somewhere right away. Sometimes it’s people who don’t live in your neighborhood at all and just don’t care. Whatever the reason, if it starts to happen all the time you’re being deprived of a huge benefit that you’re paying for. Here’s what to do (and not do) if people are constantly blocking your driveway.

Don’ts

First and foremost, there are a few things you shouldn’t do:

  • Don’t touch their car. Daydreaming about slashing some tires or smashing a few windshields might feel good, but vandalizing someone’s car will not make the situation better for you in any way.

  • Don’t call a tow yourself. Technically you may be able to have their car towed; in most jurisdictions it’s not permitted to block a private driveway (though it’s typically a civil offense, not criminal). But most tow companies won’t come out unless a ticket has been issued by the police, and even if they’re willing, calling for a tow can open you up to liability issues if the offender’s car is damaged. And someone’s going to have to pay for that tow, and without police intervention that someone might be you.

You can probably contact law enforcement using the non-emergency line, but you should check on the laws in your local area before making any phone calls. The police usually can order a tow and issue a ticket, but it can take police departments a long time to show up, and they will often advise you to resolve it yourself because the police usually have more important matters to worry about.

The basics

Calling the authorities shouldn’t be your first step, anyway—it only escalates the situation. Your first steps should stick to the basics:

  • Signage. Make sure your driveway is clearly marked. If you don’t have painted lines and curbs, consider calling your local parking authorities to see if they paint driveway curbs. If not, you might be able to do it yourself—but check to make sure it’s allowed. Some towns forbid painting curbs without city approval. You can also install signage clearly marking the driveway so there’s no way for people to mistakenly park in front of it.

  • Communication. If it’s neighbors blocking your driveway, start by approaching them in a calm, polite way and pointing out that they’re blocking access to your property. If you don’t want to have a personal confrontation, polite notes left on their car might do the trick.

    If you have repeat offenders, it can be helpful to gather some data: The make, model, and license plate number of their cars, plus the date when they’ve blocked your driveway. Including that information in a note communicates that you’re paying attention, and can identify friends or family members of neighbors who might be blocking your driveway without your neighbors’ direct knowledge.

  • Leave open. People often block driveways because they assume you won’t be using it—if it’s late at night, for example, and they think they’ll be gone before you need to leave in the morning. Leaving the driveway lit up and open (if it's gated) can give the impression that it’s an active driveway, which can deter some folks.

Block it yourself

If polite discourse and clearly marking the driveway doesn’t do the trick, your next best step is to take matters into your own hands and block your driveway yourself.

The easiest way to do this is to simply park your own car in your driveway. This obviously removes some of the benefit, especially if you have covered parking or a garage that you’re now not using, but it prevents others from blocking you in, at least.

You can also invest in removable barriers that can warn people off or even prevent them from parking in the space. Good old-fashioned traffic cones create a bright, obvious barrier that can be easily removed. Or get a little fancier with movable bollards that can be placed in front of your driveway, warning people off.

15 Signs Your Contractor Cut Corners (and What to Do About It)

Remodeling all or part of your home is not only expensive, but it also requires a level of trust—you're inviting a stranger into your safe space and counting on them to bring your vision for the project to life. Unfortunately, things don't always turn out as planned, and you may come to realize that your contractor has cut corners in some way.

Signs a contractor cut corners on a remodeling job

Sometimes the shoddy work is clearly visible; other times, it can be (literally) hidden behind walls. In fact, there are a number of ways home improvement professionals attempt to save money on a remodeling project, some of which are a bit dubious.

Though you might assume that the contractor is simply trying to increase their profit margin for the job, there are other possible reasons that they might cut corners. For instance, a contractor may encounter an unexpected issue that must be addressed in order for the project to continue, but the homeowner insists on sticking to the original budget. So, to compensate for that, the contractor might rush through the final part of the job to stay on schedule and on budget, which then results in mismatched finishes or sloppy work.

The point is that there are a variety of reasons why—and how—contractors cut corners. Keep an eye out for the following signs if you have a suspicion the work on your home isn't up to par.

Low-quality materials

This isn't a situation where a contractor and homeowner sit down to discuss their plans and the budget, and the homeowner agrees to install quartz instead of marble countertops in order to save money. Instead, it's a scenario where the contractor decides to use substandard building materials—without consulting the homeowner—as a way to keep expenses down. This could include lumber, drywall, subflooring, hardware, finishes, fixtures, paint, or other materials.

"One project really sticks out in my mind where the contractor, trying to save time and money, used lower quality plywood for the kitchen cabinets," says Jim Gray, a real estate professional and a performance coach at Agent Advice. "It was so disappointing for the homeowners when the cabinets started sagging just a few months later."

In addition to materials used in the remodel that look or feel cheap, Gray also recommends keeping an eye out for warped wood, thin veneers that don't feel solid, rough or inconsistent textures, and finishes that chip easily.

Missing components

Make sure you're getting all the features and fixtures you've paid for, Gray says. Shelves missing from built-ins, or having fewer electrical outlets than you stipulated are clear signs that corners were cut.

Mismatched materials

Maybe there isn't an issue with the quality of the materials your contractor used, but you do notice some inconsistency. For instance, perhaps one row of tiles in your bathroom is a slightly different color or shape than the rest. While buying remnant or discontinued materials can be a great way to save money, it doesn't work if there's not enough for the entire project. In addition to tiles, Erica Brenning, a real estate investor and owner of Cash Buyers, recommends looking for grout, flooring, or anything else that doesn't match the samples you were shown.

Drawers that don't open all the way

You might assume that your drawers are getting stuck on something, but it's often because they're small and don't occupy the entire space—a common material- and money-saving tactic, says Pavel Khaykin, the founder and CEO of Pavel Buys Houses, which specializes in the acquisition, renovation, and sale of houses in the Boston area. This could involve purchasing smaller manufactured drawers, or saving on lumber to custom build drawers, but either way, the homeowner will be left with less storage space than they expected.

Uneven surfaces

Unless there's a known structural issue that wasn't addressed in the remodel, there shouldn't be any visible bumps, dips, or unevenness in the walls, floors, or countertops, says Brenning.

According to Khaykin, walls that aren't level or smooth is often a sign of poor drywall work, and can be the result of cutting corners on labor costs. This is especially unfortunate for homeowners, he says, because uneven or bumpy walls can be difficult to fix, and may require additional time and money to correct. The same came be true of wavy or uneven floors and countertops.

Premature 'wear and tear'

Along the same lines, early signs of cracking or chipping in paint, drywall, or grout could point to improper installation or a rushed job, says Brenning.

Unfinished details

When contractors try to save time and labor by rushing through a job, it could leave you with unpainted trim, unsealed grout, or incomplete caulking, says Brenning.

Gaps around openings

Finding cracks or gaps around windows, doors, or fixtures could point to improper installation techniques, or not using enough sealant, says Gray.

An inconsistent paint job

According to Khaykin, a sloppy, inconsistent, or incomplete paint job is another indication that shortcuts were taken during the remodeling project. This could include uneven coverage, missed spots, noticeable drips, or visible brush strokes.

Uneven molding or trim

Uneven, misaligned, or mismatched trim, crown molding, or chair rail is another telltale sign that corners have been cut, says Khaykin. He also recommends keeping an eye out for gaps between the walls and the trim.

Plumbing issues

Pay attention to your plumbing during after the remodel, says Brenning, because inconsistent water pressure, leaky faucets, showers with poor drainage, or toilets that no longer work properly are signs that either corners were cut, or something was done incorrectly.

Electrical issues

Similarly, you shouldn't be dealing with any new electrical problems, Brenning says. This includes things like flickering lights, faulty switches, buzzing outlets, or anything that sparks.

Any new damage

If you notice any damage that wasn't there prior to the remodel job—things like dents, stains, holes, and scratches—that your contractor didn't tell you about, it could be a sign of carelessness, and/or rushed work.

Potential safety risks

Don't take any chances when it comes to potential safety risks, like exposed wiring or faulty plumbing, says Gray. These are major red flags that need to be addressed immediately.

Leaving behind a mess

You probably (and rightfully) expect your contractor to clean up after completing the job, but according to Brenning, that doesn't always happen. "Excessive dust or debris left behind is a sign of rushed cleanup and disregard for the homeowner's property," she says.

What to do if your contractor's work is subpar

So, what should you do if you notice (or strongly suspect) that your contractor is cutting corners? The experts recommend taking the following steps:

Gather evidence

First, document everything. Though they probably won't be the before-and-after photos you were hoping for, take plenty of pictures and videos of the problems, compile a paper trail that includes communications with the contractor, as well as invoices and the original plans, says Gray.

Get in touch with your contractor

Before escalating the matter, schedule a meeting with your contractor to discuss the situation. "Talk to the contractor directly, and politely explain your concerns, giving examples of what needs to be fixed or resolved through repairs or repayment," says Gray.

According to Khaykin, what looks like cutting corners may have actually been an oversight or miscommunication, and your contractor may be willing to fix the issues at no additional cost. As always, get it in writing.

"If the contractor is willing to address the issues, homeowners should request that they fix the problems in a timely manner," he says. "It is important to have clear communication and expectations regarding the repairs."

Consult another professional

If your contractor is unwilling or unable to work with you on solutions to the problems, it's time to contact another contractor or an independent inspector to verify the issues, and assess the potential damage, Brenning advises. "Get estimates for repairs to understand the cost of rectifying the problems," she says.

Consider legal action

If the contractor is unresponsive to your requests, or refuses to rectify or fairly compensate you for the problems, Brenning suggests seeking legal advice as a last resort.

How to Figure Out How Many Solar Panels Your House Needs

In some ways, installing solar panels is unlike other home improvement projects. Adding renewable energy sources to your house has an aspect of social good to it, because you’re using cleaner energy to power your lifestyle, reducing your energy and pollution footprint. And solar energy can also directly impact your budget by lowering the price you pay for electricity.

But in other ways, it’s just like any other project: You have to work out a budget for it. Installing solar panels can be an expensive proposition. The average cost is about $25,000, which is a significant price tag for most people. That’s why the first question you have to answer when you decide the time has come to go solar is: How many solar panels do I need?

This isn’t just about cost. The answer is crucial in terms of every aspect of the project, from how much space you’ll need to ensuring you get enough power from your panels.

Gather the data

You’re going to need all that grade-school math you thought you’d never need, because it's time to do some calculations:

  • Your power needs. The first step is to know how much power you need to generate. The average home in the U.S. uses about 11,000 kilowatthours (kWh) each year, or about 900 kWh every month. But that’s just an average; your utility bill will give you a much more accurate sense of how many kWh of electricity you use every month. If you can see 12 months' usage, you can average that out to a number that takes into consideration seasonal variations in electricity use. Then divide that average by 30.42 (the average number of days in a month) to get your daily usage. For example, if you use 900 kWh per month, your daily usage is roughly 30 kWh.

  • Sun exposure. The amount of sunlight your home gets every day is kind of a crucial aspect in solar energy. This varies greatly across the country, with areas in the Southwest getting an average of around six hours per day, and areas in the Northeast getting less than four hours (don’t forget, this isn’t just daylight hours—cloud cover and weather reduce the amount of sun exposure). Knowing how much sun you’re likely to get will tell you how much energy your panels will need to generate on a daily basis. For example, if you need 30 kWh of juice to power your home each month and you get five hours of sunlight every day on average, 30kWh / 5 hours = 6 kWh needed every day.

  • Panel wattage. The amount of energy the solar panels you’re installing can produce is key. Most modern solar panels can output between 350 and 450 watts, or 0.35 to 0.45 kWh, of electricity from the sunlight they receive. That’s an average of about 0.40 kWh.

Fill in the formula

Now that you have all your data, it’s relatively simple to estimate how many panels you’ll need. The formula is

Daily kWh needed / per panel kWh

Using our numbers from above (we need 6 kWh each day using panels that produce 0.40 kWh), that translates to

6 kWh / 0.40 kWh = 15 panels

When doing these calculations, it’s a good idea to round everything up so you end up with slightly more than you need instead of slightly less. And keep in mind that a professional installer will make much finer calculations based on a lot more data (see below), so this number should be used as a rough estimate for determining costs and feasibility only.

Other factors

Your back-of-the-envelope calculation won’t be as accurate as a professional’s estimate; they’ll be taking something called Production Ratio into consideration. The Production Ratio applies to the whole system, and ranges between 1 and 1.8 or so. For example, a 10 kWh system that produces 16 kWh worth of electricity would have a PR of 1.6. A 10 kWh system that produces just 10 kWh would have a PR of 1.0.

Production Ratio is a more complex calculation that includes not just average sun exposure but also the shade around your house, the orientation of the panels (which may depend on where you can fit them), the geographical features on and around your property which may affect sun exposure, and other factors. If the PR is lower than expected, you might need to add some panels to get to the necessary energy production.

Finally, keep the physical size of solar panels and where you’ll be installing them in mind. Standard solar panels are about 66 x 40 inches give or take an inch or two, or about 17 and 7/8 square feet. If you need 15 of them, you’ll need approximately 268 square feet of space for them, so make sure that their intended location (your roof, or yard if it’s a ground-grid system) has enough space.

Why Charred Lumber Is the Upgrade Your Next Woodworking Project Needs

If you’re thinking of building a deck, or even just installing some shelves, but you’re having a hard time choosing a finish for your wood, charred lumber might be right for you. Charring adds color to lumber, making it darker and more visually novel while retaining some of the best features of natural wood—but it can also make timber more durable and water resistant. Here’s what you need to know about charred lumber before starting your next woodworking project.

A quick history of charred lumber

The technique for charring lumber comes from Japan, and was popular in the Edo period as a way of preserving wood, especially for exterior siding. The process of charring wood, called yakisugi in Japanese, and often referred to as "shou sugi ban" in the U.S., can be accomplished via traditional techniques, or modern methods that borrow from the older innovations.

Charred timber is more durable

When the outside of a piece of lumber is heated up, the strands of the wood grain shrink and fuse, creating a tighter, harder outer shell to the board. In addition to making for a denser material, charring also allows it to more effectively repel water. This increased durability and water resistance makes it an especially good form of siding to use in damp environments.

Charred lumber is less susceptible to rot

Since the process of charring kills the bacteria that causes rot on the surface of lumber and makes it more water resistant, it can prevent your lumber from rotting for much longer than some other natural finishing techniques. Charring creates carbon on the outside of lumber, essentially covering it in a thin layer of antimicrobial charcoal. And since charcoal decomposes less quickly than wood, it can further help prevent rot.

Charred timber needs limited maintenance to retain its color

Lumber that is charred gently on the outside will keep its color for over a hundred years if it's properly maintained and re-oiled every five to ten years. If you prefer a weathered look, you can allow a patina to form, but the color will change over time. If you prefer a darker brown appearance, oil needs to be applied to keep the color from changing.

You can char your own lumber

If you have specific needs for your project and want to save some money on a custom result, you can char your own lumber using a torch or a heat gun—but keep in mind that in order for your lumber to maintain its structural integrity, you need to make sure to only char the outside. Charring too much will actually burn the wood, actually reducing its strength by degrading the underlying structure of the wood grain. As always, wear the proper safety gear, including gloves and safety glasses, when you’re using tools, and always keep flames away from structures and dry brush.


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You can get precharred timber

If you don’t want to do your own charring, you can buy pre-charred lumber in a variety of types.

  • Pine trim comes as an eight foot long one by four or one by six measurements.

  • Shiplap can be found in many finishes, and is usually pine.

  • Tongue and groove boards made from ash or pine come in a variety of colors.

  • Traditional sukiyaki siding comes with a few different finishes and is intended to be used outdoors for any outdoor projects you might have.

This Nix Mini 2 Color Sensor Is on Sale for $60 During This Two-Day Flash Sale

This Nix Mini 2 Color Sensor can scan and read the color of just about any surface—great for matching paint colors, like having a color-dropping tool in real life—and it’s on sale for $59.97 right now (reg. $99) during this two-day flash sale that ends March 17. It was featured at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) this year and is a gadget assists designers, DIYers, and photographers working on home or art projects by simplifying color grabbing and matching. No two colors are quite the same when you're painting or doing a DIY project, and with the Nix Mini 2 you can scan a surface and get matches to brand-name paint colors or sRGB, HEX, CMYK, or LAB colors. The scanner works by sending the color information right to your phone via its app and makes it easy to organize your favorite colors or palettes for future reference—or share with friends or customers to get their opinions. The Nix Mini 2 makes accurate readings even if you’re in direct sunlight capturing the hue of a flower or in a dark room scanning a wall, and it blocks out ambient light and uses its own pre-calibrated light source.

You can get the Nix Mini 2 Color Sensor on sale for $59.97 right now (reg. $99) during this two-day flash sale that ends March 17 at 11:59 p.m. PT, though prices may change at any time.

Five Ways to Generate Solar Power at Home Without Roof-mounted Panels

There are a lot of good reasons to consider adding solar energy to your home. The price of electricity from the grid has been trending upward for a while now, for one thing. And climate change is generating more and more powerful weather events, which in turn lead to potential blackouts—which means having an alternative way to power your home is a very, very good idea.

The most obvious way to get solar energy to your house is to install panels on your roof. But roof panels have one big disadvantage: They are attached to your roof. This can complicate roof repair, maintenance, and replacement—and not all roof systems are ideal for solar panel placement. Solar panels also aren’t the most attractive objects to have bolted onto the top of your house. Well, if you want solar energy but hesitate about enormous panels on your roof, you do have some alternatives.

Flexible panels

If large, rigid panels won’t work for your home (or your aesthetic), you might find flexible panels easier to deal with. These products are similar to solar panels in some ways, but differ in one crucial aspect: They are relatively thin, which makes them flexible and bendable. That means they have a few advantages over the traditional rigid solar panel:

  • Ease of installation. Flexible panels are a lot easier to install because they’re not as heavy and bulky as traditional panels. It’s a project a relatively handy person could do themselves (although the electrical wiring should be done by a licensed professional). They also have a much lower profile, so even if you do decide to put them on your roof they will be much less visible.

  • Options for placement. Because they bend, flexible panels can be put just about anywhere. They weigh much less than rigid panels, so you can slap them on almost any surface that gets sunlight and start benefiting from solar energy.

There is one major downside to flexible solar panels, however: They generate a lot less energy. Most rigid solar panels attain an efficiency (the percentage of solar energy converted into electricity) of more than 20%, but flexible panels top out at 15% at best. That lower efficiency translates to less electricity; while standard panels can provide up to 300 watts, flexible panels can only provide about half of that.

Ground-mounted panels

Solar panels don’t have to be installed on a roof—if you have the property, you can install them on the ground. This is as much of a project as installing those panels on your roof because you have to construct a framework to attach the panels to, but there are a lot of advantages aside from sparing your roofline: They can be easier to maintain and replace because you don’t have to climb onto your roof to do the work, and a ground-mounted system can also utilize sun-tracking technology that rotates the panels to maximize their sun exposure.

Solar roof

If your roof is the best place for solar panels but you hate the idea of those clunky panels, you have a more elegant choice: Solar shingles. Tesla, for example, will install a solar roof on your house, and there are several other companies that manufacture similar products. Solar shingles can offer you all the solar energy you want (many provide similar efficiency ratings as regular panels) with a more traditional look, preserving your home’s aesthetics. Having a solar roof installed can be pricey (ranging between $20 and $30 per square foot), but most come with lengthy warranties that make the price worth it.

Solar blinds

Another option for getting solar energy pumped into your home is solar blinds on your windows. There aren’t a lot of companies offering these products (SolarGaps is one), and installing them probably won’t provide enough energy to get you off the grid entirely. But they offer a less intrusive and more attractive option for supplementing your energy with solar power.

Solar siding

You can get solar panels on your house without touching your roof by using the vertical surfaces of your home. Solar siding companies like Mitrex will install vertical panels on your house that can generate plenty of juice (up to 350 watts) while maintaining the look and feel of the home. These siding panels can look like wood, brick, or natural stone to match up with your existing facade or for easy incorporation into a new build.

Coming soon: Windows

In the not-quite-there-yet department are solar windows. While there are prototypes like Physee’s PowerWindow, they’re not yet readily available for purchase, and most experts think we’re still some years away from these windows being a viable alternative to other solar energy products. Still, someday relatively soon you might be able to replace your windows with new solar models that will power up your home’s appliances and devices without any aesthetic compromise at all.

Solar energy is a key way to get more from your property, insure yourself against power outages, and save some money—and you have more choices for getting it into your home than you think.

Wall Paneling Isn’t Just a Relic From the ’70s

If you’ve been considering upgrading your wall coverings, or you’re ready for a total remodel, you might not have considered adding paneling to your walls. While the term might conjure up images of a dated, partially finished basement from the disco era, modern millwork can be much more sophisticated, and comes in lots of styles to suit your tastes.

Yes, if you want to achieve a high end look with some surprising benefits, wall paneling might be for you.

Wall paneling adds insulation

Adding some paneling to your interior walls also adds insulation, for heat and cold retention, and also for noise. If you want to set up a separate climate zone for emergency heat or AC, paneling can be a good choice. Adding an extra layer of insulation can make your space less drafty, but it can also make it quieter. This is a perfect upgrade for a home office or studio or making a bedroom more private.

Wall paneling lasts longer

Since wall paneling is more durable than bare wallboard, it will stand up to more abuse than a painted wall. Since it’s made from replaceable materials that can be swapped out in sections, wall paneling is also often simpler to repair than plaster or drywall. The material is denser than your walls, so it can be easier to clean too. These qualities make it a great choice for a kids room or playroom.

You can use wall paneling to hide your sins

Is there a spot on your wall that looks ugly thanks to repair work Do you have holes from sconces or appliances that need patching? Rather than tearing out your drywall or cutting out parts to patch and repair, you can cover undesirable areas with paneling. In some cases, you can use paneling to hide doors for HVAC and electrical access, although you should check your local building codes to see what types of covers are allowed in your area. Paneling can smooth over the rough spots in your home and make everything look more finished.

10 types of wall paneling

There are lots of different styles of paneling to choose from, and they all have different advantages. Keep in mind that you’ll be the one living with your paneling, so you should choose something that suits your tastes and your space.

  • Raised paneling refers to wall paneling that is applied to the surface of your wall and increases its profile. It can be a row of wainscoting that only covers the bottom third of your wall, or it can go ceiling to floor if you like.

  • Textured, geometric wood paneling is a modern style of paneling that comes in interlocking sheets and can be installed in whatever configuration you prefer. This style of wall panel has an uneven texture, so keep that in mind when planning for furniture placement.

  • Wainscoting is a type of paneling that comes in sections, usually about 32 inches tall, and has raised edges to form a box shape, like a picture frame. This is a traditional style of paneling from the Georgian era of design and is usually paired with a chair rail along the top edge, but can be mixed with more modern elements.

  • Beadboard is a style of wall paneling that has vertical grooves scored into the surface, forming a series of vertical lines. It’s usually sold in 32 inch tall sections, but there’s no rule against using beadboard higher up on the wall or even on your ceiling.

  • Shiplap is a style of molding that lays onto the wall in long boards that overlap themselves horizontally. It’s a good choice if you want to add some rustic charm to a room, and since it comes in pieces, you can install it to whatever height you like.

  • Reclaimed wood wall paneling is made from boards that are taken from dismantled structures, offcuts from mills, or scraps from manufacturing. It can come in lots of shades, types, and widths and is perfect if you want to have a more rustic look. Although you can buy reclaimed wood paneling from most major hardware stores now, you can still get it the old fashioned way by hunting it down, or getting it from a local reuse center.

  • Slat wall paneling is made from panels of raised slats, creating vertical raised strips on the wall’s surface. This type of paneling is more modern, and it has added acoustic benefit because of its sound-absorbing shape.

  • Fluted wall paneling is a style of millwork paneling that has a rounded series of ridges. Since it overlaps like shiplap, it’s simple to install and can be installed in almost any space. Fluted woodwork has a more contemporary look, but it takes its lead from vintage, art deco style.

  • Scalloped wall paneling is an inverted version of fluted panels. It fits together the same way, but rather than ridges, it’s a series of rounded channels carved into the surface. It was popular in the 1920’s art deco era as well as the mid century modern period that followed, but it has its roots in the rococo movement of the mid 1700s.

  • PVC wall paneling is a type of molded paneling made from PVC that can come in a variety of shapes and is paintable so you can match it to your own style. PVC panels are more affordable than wood paneling and they’re a little easier to cut, making them a good choice for first time paneling installers.

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