Connexion
You can get this 12V battery jump starter and 8,000mAh power bank on sale for $69.99 right now (reg. $119.99). The jumper cables connect to the battery of gasoline engines up to 6.0L or diesel engines up to 3.0L, and the LCD screen gibes step-by-step instructions. The UL-certified jumper has safety features like polarity protection, reverse charging protection, and low-voltage protection, and the gadget also has an LED light that has a flashlight, red flashing light, strobe lights, and Morse code patterns. It also works as an 8,000mAh power bank with a built-in USB-C cable and Qi-wireless charging pad on the flat surface.
You can get this 12V battery jump starter and 8,000mAh power bank on sale for $69.99 right now (reg. $119.99), though prices can change at any time.
Buying a used car can be risky business if you don't do your due diligence. One of the most important steps is to get the vehicle's VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) checked for any unsavory histories like past accidents, flood damage, or odometer rollback fraud. Fortunately, there are ways to get a free VIN check that can alert you to potential issues before you seal the deal.
The VIN is a 17-character code that uniquely identifies a vehicle. By decoding the VIN and cross-checking it against databases like NMVIC and vehicle history report providers, you can uncover details about the car's background, such as:
Previous ownership
Accident and damage records
Odometer readings
Lemon/manufacturer buyback status
Flood damage
Theft records
Recall notices
This insider information can help you steer clear of clunkers, cut your losses on a bad deal, and negotiate a better price if issues are uncovered.
While some vehicle history report providers charge for VIN checks, there are a few legitimate free (or cheap) options:
National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVIC). This federal database allows you to check for brand history like "junk," "salvage," or "flood" titles that may have been issued in another state for just $3.
Vehicle History Report Samples. Sites like vehiclehistory.com let you view a sample report for free by entering the VIN. This provides basic details on past owners, accidents, and service records and can flag any major issues.
NICB VIN Check. The National Insurance Crime Bureau offers a free VIN check service to detect if a vehicle has been reported as stolen—an important red flag.
When buying from a private seller, always get the VIN beforehand and run it through the above free checking services. For added peace of mind, you can also purchase an affordable comprehensive report from providers like CarFax for around $40.
Large swaths of the United States were built with the assumption that everyone who lived there would own a car, but that can be an expensive prospect—the average labor rate for auto repairs is hovering around $60 an hour, and can rise into the triple digits, depending on the make and model of your car.
At the same time, the skyrocketing cost of new and used cars means lots of people are hanging onto their vehicles for longer—the average car on the road today is now 12.5 years old, and older cars mean more repair bills.
If you’ve got a beater that needs work done but you can’t afford to bring it into the shop, there’s another option that can save you a lot of cash. All you need is some mechanical skills (or a friend with some skills) and the location of a DIY garage near you.
A DIY garage is a full-service car repair shop where you can rent a bay, a lift, diagnostic equipment (including computers), and tools, all for an hourly or daily fee. Some will also provide the guidance of certified mechanics—although many people rely on Youtube, manuals, and the free advice of their fellow DIY mechanics. But you do all the actual work on your vehicle, saving yourself a huge amount of money in labor costs.
It’s a fairly straightforward process:
Determine your needs. Depending on the repairs you’ll be doing, you should make a list of all the equipment you might need. People use DIY garages for more than mechanical repairs—some folks repaint their cars, repair rusted roofs, or do other body work.
Locate a DIY garage near you. There’s no national listing of DIY garages, so you’ll have to rely on a Google Search—this page has a preset search box that allows you to enter your zip code and see a list of DIY garages near you. (Here’s a list of DIY repair shops in the New York City area, for example.)
Book your time and tools. Now you just book what you need and show up. DIY garages will supply everything you need in terms of tools, but you’ll need to supply parts and, of course, labor.
The fact that DIY garages can save you money doesn’t mean they won't still cost you some. Here’s what you can expect to pay in order to repair your vehicle at one:
Base cost. If you just need a bay to work in, most DIY garages will charge about $20 to $50 an hour. For example, My Mechanics Place in Michigan charges $20 an hour for a basic bay, U Wrench It in New Jersey charges $24.99, while Your Dream Garage in Los Angeles charges $50 an hour. A lift bay will run you $30 to $35 an hour, and a paint booth is typically about $100 an hour. These prices sometimes include access to tools, but sometimes there’s an extra fee of $10 to $25 for that. Most DIY garages also have daily and even monthly rates, which can be a better bargain if you need that kind of time.
Expert assistance. Many DIY garages offer the option of having a professional mechanic advise you through the repair for an extra fee. For example, U Wrench It will provide a professional to assist you for $55 an hour on top of the bay rental. This can be a great middle option if you’ve never done serious car repair before and you’re nervous about relying on videos and friendly advice.
Considering the costs of labor, a DIY repair done in one of these shops can save you a few hundred or even a few thousand dollars, depending on how much time it takes.
A DIY garage isn’t the right solution for everyone, of course. A few things to consider:
Insurance. If your repair stems from an accident and insurance is involved, your insurer may not approve DIY repairs and might require that the work be done in an approved shop. On the other hand, you might be able to keep some of the insurance money if they simply cut you a check for repairs and you do them yourself.
Liability. Most DIY garages will require you to sign a waiver releasing them of liability if you are injured unless the shop is negligent in some way. State laws vary, but if a DIY shop is operating the law most likely places liability on the consumer. Make sure you know what happens if you’re injured, or if you somehow destroy your car while trying to repair it.
Cost. If you rent a professional to help with your repair, your hourly costs may exceed what you’d pay in labor costs. If the average hourly cost for a mechanic is $60 and you’re spending $75 for a bay and professional help, you’re not actually saving any money at all.
Quality. Saving money is great, but if your DIY car repair doesn’t hold up because you don’t know what you’re doing you’ll wind up in an even worse situation.
Education. A DIY garage can also be a great way to teach yourself about car maintenance and repair. If you have a non-essential vehicle that you can tinker with, spending some time at a self-service garage is a hands-on way of learning.
If you’re reasonably mechanically inclined or have some experience fixing cars—or if you know someone who does and who is willing to help you out—renting a bay at a DIY garage can save you a ton of money while keeping your wheels on the road.
You can get a lifetime subscription to Prism Drive with 20TB of cloud storage on sale for $89.97 right now (reg. $1,494) through April 7. You can store thousands of files of just about any type—audio, images, video, and so on—and access them from any computer, tablet, or phone. Once your files are uploaded to Prism Drive, they’re protected with AES 256-bit encryption, so your data is shielded from potential hackers and stored safely in the cloud if anything ever happened to your physical devices.
While Prism Drive supports large files, there is a maximum limit of 10GB per file, so keep that in mind if you’re working with massive, high-quality video files. Most files are far under that limit, though. Other cloud storage services don’t often support this much data, and they charge fees each month. It’s not uncommon to pay $10 a month for 2TB of storage from services like iCloud Drive, Google Drive, or Dropbox, which ends up being more expensive in just the first year than it costs to buy Prism Drive for life.
You can get a lifetime subscription to Prism Drive with 20TB of cloud storage on sale for $89.97 right now (reg. $1,494) through April 7 at 11:59 p.m. PT, though prices can change at any time.
This docking station for the 2021-2023 Tesla Model 3 or Y is on sale for $31.99 right now (reg. $39.99). It requires no assembly or modifications, fitting snugly into your center USB console without interfering with the sliding covers and storage boxes. The docking station has one USB-A and one USB-C port and retractable Lightning and USB-C cables to connect up to four devices at once. You could connect your game console or laptop to use your Tesla’s screen or power up your devices up to four times faster than your car’s wireless charger with 27W power output.
You can get this docking station for the 2021-2023 Tesla Model 3 or Y on sale for $31.99 right now (reg. $39.99), though prices can change at any time.
When I'm looking to buy a computer, I don't consider the storage capacity to be as important as I once did. These days, it's pretty easy to find good deals on external storage, especially if you keep an eye out for price cuts. Amazon's current sale on WD and SanDisk storage devices is a prime example.
I don't know if any one person can fill up 18 terabytes of storage, but if you can, more power to you. If you're up for the challenge, Amazon currently has a WD 18 TB Elements Desktop External Hard Drive on sale for $299.99 (originally $529.99) after a 43% discount. With USB 3.0, it offers fast data transfer and it is compatible with Windows and Mac—but for the latter, you'll need to follow some on-screen instructions to reformat it. This WD hard drive was launched in 2020, and it's at one of the lowest prices I've seen (but not the lowest) after looking at price tracking tools. If 18 TB seems like overkill, make sure to check out the other lower storage options below.
For devices like Android smartphones, tablets, Chromebooks, Windows laptops, DSLR cameras, and even the Nintendo Switch, microSDXC memory cards can extend their memory space to fit more games, images, videos, photos, and files. Right now, you can get a 1.5TB SanDisk Ultra microSDXC Memory Card with an adapter for $109.99 (originally $149.99), which is the lowest price it has been.
For a more discrete and portable storage device than an external hard drive, consider a flash drive. Amazon has a SanDisk 256 GB flash drive for only $12.49 (originally $49.99) after a 75% discount. This flash drive can transfer up to 150 MB per second via USB 3.0.
A major consideration when joining the EV car crowd is how you'll charge your expensive new pet. While you can use a standard 120V plug, or if you're lucky, a 208-240V available at your home, these charge your car significantly slower than an EV charger. Your own EV charger will allow you more flexibility, time savings and actual cost per kilowatt over what you pay at a supercharge station. The reason more people don't do it is cost: Installing a level 1 or 2 charger could run $1000, and that doesn't include the cost of the charger.
This is what makes Leviton's announcement about updates to their EV Series Smart Home line so welcome. The most exciting part of the news is that there are now options to just plug in the charger, rather than hardwire it to your electrical panel. While the line offers home chargers from 32-48 amps (their entire line goes up to 80 amps), only the 40 amp model is available as a plug-in. They require a NEMA 14-50 receptacle, which Leviton also sells. Leviton will start shipping the model soon, and it starts at a very reasonable $473.57.
Note that the plug-in charger will only deliver the same electrical voltage that the wiring supports, but it still has some advantages. One reason to go with Leviton for a charger is that it plays nicely with the My Leviton app, allowing you to manage and schedule your charging from your phone, so you can take advantage of off-peak utility hours to save money and qualify for incentive programs. You can remotely start and stop charging from anywhere, and get a bevy of status reports.
Leviton EV chargers work on with any industry standard SAE J1772™ cable, so EVs from Audi, BMW, Ford, Honda, Subaru, and Tesla are covered (the Tesla requires an adapter).
You can get this 9-inch wireless car display screen on sale for $99.97 right now (reg. $180). It's compatible with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto, and it's designed to be easy to install with two different kinds of brackets—one being a suction mount, and the other being a self-adhesive to help the monitor stand on your dashboard or hang from your windshield. It also supports collaboration with a 1080p backup camera, but that's not included. The display supports a 1024x600 image, syncs with GPS navigation, and has built-in speakers, FM wireless transmission, and its own AUX output. You can also mirror your phone screen to play things like YouTube videos.
You can get this 9" wireless car display on sale for $99.97 right now (reg. $180), though prices can change at any time.
These mini solid-state drives (SSDs) are on sale right now: 256GB for $43.99, 512GB for $60.99, and 1TB for $99.99. They measure 2.8 by 1.4 inches, making them as compact as a pack of gum and excellent for traveling and long-term storage. Each SSD has a USB 3.2 interface with up to 550Mbps read and 500Mbps write speeds and includes a USB-A to USB-C cable for easy connectivity to your laptop, tablet, or smartphone.
You can get these mini SSDs on sale right now, though prices can change at any time:
Mini Ultra Portable SSD 256GB, $43.99 (reg. $75.99)
Mini Ultra Portable SSD 512GB, $60.99 (reg. $107.99)
Mini Ultra Portable SSD 1TB, $99.99 (reg. $139.99)
Driving in the late winter and early spring can be brutal on your car, especially if you live in an area with freezing and thawing temperatures, thanks to the rapid proliferation of potholes. Potholes are the result of trapped moisture that expands and cracks pavement, which is further broken down by traffic—and thanks to harsh seasonal conditions, cities may not repair this damage before it has an opportunity to wreak havoc on your vehicle.
Unfortunately, you may have to play defense against winter potholes to avoid costly repairs to your steering and suspension as well as broken wheel rims and blown-out tires.
You should regularly inspect your tires for wear, including testing tread depth. Keeping your tires properly inflated according to manufacturer-recommended levels will also mitigate pothole damage. Most vehicles have monitoring systems that alert you if the pressure is dropping or dips below a certain level, but you should check all four tires once a month during the winter (because pressure drops more rapidly in cold weather). Your vehicle's alignment and suspension should also be inspected by a professional.
You may not be able to avoid every pothole, but slowing down (within a safe speed) and keeping your eyes on the road ahead will give you time to respond quickly to any hazards you encounter. Otherwise, you may end up swerving unexpectedly, which can endanger other cars as well as cyclists and pedestrians. In general, driving more slowly lowers the risk of damage to your wheels and suspension. Drive with extreme caution through puddles—these may actually be potholes.
Again, don't swerve to avoid a pothole. If you can center it underneath your car without leaving your lane, do so with caution. Otherwise, it's best to drive straight over the pothole, slowly, as the damage risk to your tire sidewall is greater if you swerve through it. Ease off the brakes—don't slam them—just before you reach the hole so your wheels can roll gently through. You can also alert other cars to the pothole by tapping your brakes.
If you hit a pothole hard, don't ignore it. Find a safe place to park and look for damage to your tire and wheel (front and rear). Pay attention to any shaking, vibrating, or pulling as you drive, and keep an eye on tire pressure, as air loss may occur as a slow leak rather than a blowout. Uneven tire wear can also be a sign of additional damage. If in doubt, have your vehicle inspected by a professional mechanic.
Google One is a subscription service that includes a few additional benefits beyond a Google Drive subscription—some of the larger Google One plans actually come with access to Gemini Advanced, the most cutting-edge version of Google's AI model. And unlike a regular Google Drive subscription, you can share a Google One subscription with your family members, giving everyone in the household access to a large pool of cloud storage, plus a few other perks.
To do so, the first step is setting up a Google Family.
The first step to sharing Google One with your family is to actually set up a family group within your Google account. To do that, head to one.google.com and then click Settings (the cog at the top right of the window). Now, select Manage Family settings > Manage > Create a family group and follow the rest of the prompts.
To invite members to your Google Family Group, select Manage family settings > Manage > Send new invitation and enter the email addresses of the users you want to invite.
Now that you have a family group set up, it's time to start sharing your benefits with the rest of the family. Once again, at one.google.com, click the settings cog at the top of the screen, and then select Manage Family Settings. You should now see a Share Google One with family option with a toggle next to it. Select the toggle to turn it on (the switch will be to the right when it is turned on). This will share Google One with your family.
Keep in mind that your family will still have their own "individual storage." However, once their individual storage is filled, they'll start taking advantage of the "family storage" that you've unlocked with both the Family Group and your Google One subscription.
While many of the benefits of Google One are shared with your family, access to Gemini Advanced is not one of those shared benefits. So, if you have one of the AI plans that Google One now offers, you won't be able to share Gemini Advanced access with your family; they'll still need to subscribe themselves to get full access to Google's best AI language model.
So, what exactly is shared with your family when you share Google One? Google says it will share benefits like extra Google Photos editing features, access to Google experts through tech support, storage, and premium video calling features. Depending on your Google One plan, you may also be able to monitor the dark web for your private information.
You can get 2TB of storage from PhotoSphere on sale for $279.99 right now (reg. $299). It comes with a lifetime subscription, AI support to help you search for photos by facial recognition and location, and it uses encryption to keep your files safe. You can get lifetime access to PhotoSphere with 2TB on storage on sale for $279.99 right now (reg. $299), though prices can change at any time.
The costs of owning and driving a car extend beyond its purchase price or lease payments, and include factors like fuel efficiency, replacement parts and repairs, and auto insurance. That's a lot to keep in mind when shopping for a new car, but a new report from the driver's education app Zutobi—which breaks down the various costs of operating a vehicle, and ranks the cheapest and most expensive cars to drive in the U.S.—can help.
Rather than a single, comprehensive ranking, the report has separate lists for conventional gas-powered vehicles, and electric vehicles (EVs). There are also separate rankings for replacement parts, and car registration fees by state.
There are a lot of data contained in the report, but the focus here will be on the cheapest conventional vehicles to operate in the U.S., based on fuel efficiency and auto insurance costs. The top-10 from Zutobi's report are listed below. Note that two of the 10 cars specify a model year that evidently was more cost efficient than others:
Honda Fit 2018 4cyl 1.5L Automatic
Hyundai Accent 4cyl 1.6L Automatic (AV-S1)
Honda Civic 4Dr 4cyl 1.5L Automatic
Mini Cooper Convertible 3cyl 1.5L Automatic (AM-57)
Toyota Yaris 2020 4cyl 1.5L Manual 6-spd
Toyota RAV4 4cyl 2.5L Automatic (S8)
Toyota Corolla 4cyl 1.8L Automatic
Nissan Rogue 3cyl 1.5L Automatic (AV-58)
Honda CR-V AWD 4cyl 1.5L Automatic
Subaru Forester AWD 4cyl 2.5L Automatic (AV-57)
When Lucas Waldenback, the co-founder of Zutobi, compiled and analyzed the data from his company's recent report, several themes emerged that could come in handy the next time you're shopping for a new car:
This is hardly surprising, but the data from the report supports the idea that the fuel efficiency and maintenance costs of compact and subcompact cars make them some of the cheapest cars to operate, Waldenback says.
If you need a slightly larger vehicle but still have a small budget, Waldenback suggests considering hatchbacks and sedans. While they have more room for passengers and cargo, they're still relatively compact compared to SUVs, minivans, and trucks, and tend to be more fuel efficient.
While some people don't give much thought to where a vehicle is made, others have strong opinions on the subject—firmly believing that domestic cars are always a better value than foreign cars, or vice versa. But given that there's a mix of domestic and foreign manufacturers on the list of the cheapest cars to operate, Waldenback says that the emphasis should be on the efficiency of individual models, rather than their origin. He recommends that prospective buyers look into the specifics of each model, "considering factors such as reliability, maintenance costs, and fuel efficiency."
There are separate sections in the Zutobi report that rank the cheapest EV models to operate, as well as a breakdown comparing the costs of operating gas vs. electric cars. For even more information, check out the hidden costs of EVs and why it might makes sense to hold off on buying a used EV—at least for now.
You can get this 10" Touchscreen Wireless/Wifi/Bluetooth Car Display on sale for $125.99 right now (reg. $199). The touchscreen display is built on an Android 12 system and comes with support for Android Auto, Apple CarPlay, wifi, and downloading apps. Of course, knowing where you're going and keeping your eye on the road are most important, so it connects to phones via bluetooth so you can check messages, view navigation, and make calls through the mountable display. It also comes with an FM radio and multimedia playback with its own built-in speakers.
You can get this 10" Touchscreen Wireless/Wifi/Bluetooth Car Display with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto support on sale for $125.99 right now (reg. $199), though prices can change at any time.
You can get this 6.8" Foldable Touchscreen Car Display on sale for $95.99 right now (reg. $159). It's compatible with Apple CarPlay, Android Auto, Siri, and Google Assistant so you can take calls, navigate, and play music without needing to look away from the road. It's also easy to install with two different mounting brackets, so you can choose between setting it up on the dashboard or attached to the windshield. It also comes with rear camera support, if you have one.
You can get this 6.8" Foldable Touchscreen Car Display on sale for $95.99 right now (reg. $159), though prices can change at any time.
Windshield wipers often go unnoticed on your vehicle—until it’s raining and they aren’t working. While there are times when having a professional do the work is the way to go, there are several simple issues to check for before you shell out money for a mechanic. After you’ve turned your vehicle completely off to make sure there’s no power going to your wipers, here’s what to look for to identify and address your wiper issue.
Your wiper blades are made from rubber that can wear out and become brittle over time. Also, ice and friction can tear wiper blades away from the base that attaches them to the wiper motor. If this kind of damage happens, your windshield wipers will likely still be moving, but they won’t be moving much water. You might see a piece of rubber flopping around. In this scenario, you'll need to replace your wiper blades. You can find the correct-sized blades for your vehicle by searching for the make and model and then noting the size blades recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. You can find the proper length at most automotive stores or online by searching for your desired wiper length. The new blades will come with installation instructions; usually you can swap them out without tools, as they snap together. Make sure to test out your blades before heading out on the road with them.
Your windshield wipers can stop working because of an object in their path. Usually the offending object is ice, snow, or leaf debris. Your wipers can’t move thick ice, heavy snow, or leaf build-up—these are too heavy for the motor and blades—and using them to try and remove frozen or heavy debris can damage your blades and/or burn out the motor. Use a snow brush or ice scraper to clear out any obstructions before using your wipers to keep them working and avoid damage. In icy conditions, make sure to check the area around the motor and the base of the wiper arms near the bottom of the windshield for broken bits of ice that can get jammed in there.
If you try to use your wipers and nothing happens, chances are that the motor has failed. This can happen because of the age of the motor, because of overuse, like using your wipers to move heavy snow, or from an electrical short. Replacing your motor requires tools: a ratchet, screwdriver, and some pliers. You’ll need to disconnect the wiper arms and then remove the cowl that covers the wiper motor if necessary on your vehicle. Then, you can disconnect the motor and install a replacement that’s compatible with your vehicle. You may also need to replace the wiper arm or other components, if they're damaged. This project is an intermediate-skill-level task, so if you’re not comfortable with tools and components, get a pro to do your motor swap for you.
If the fuse on your windshield wipers is bad, it likely has gone bad for a reason. To prevent your motor from being overloaded, the fuse will blow, so if it’s blown, you should look for any underlying problems with the motor before replacing the fuse and turning the wipers on. Check for loose wiring and signs of electrical short like burnt color or odor, and make sure the area around the wiper motor is clear of debris before replacing the fuse. To swap the fuse, there will be a circuit map of what each fuse in your vehicle controls. Look for the one that controls the wipers and switch that one for a new one.
The pivot joint is the part of the wiper that turns the rotational motion of the wiper motor into the back and forth motion of the wiper arms. If this joint is loose or damaged, it can cause the wipers to move erratically, move partially, or thump against the cowl that covers the motor without ever wiping the glass of the windshield. Opening up the cowl and taking a look at the pivot joints should give you an idea of what’s going on with your wipers if they’re acting strangely. You might be able to tighten up the screws or bolts that hold the joints together if they’re loose, but make sure the wipers are off before you try so you don’t get pinched or whacked. A broken pivot joint will likely require a whole new linkage assembly, so if you’re not comfortable taking your whole windshield assembly apart, this is a job for a mechanic.
The convenience and ease of apps like Google Maps, Apple Maps, and Waze—along with GPS devices and built-in navigation systems—have made the once-ubiquitous folding paper maps largely a relic of the past. Most people no longer need their car's map light to read their road atlas after dark, but it does come in handy in a number of other nighttime situations—as does the dome light. But like other light bulbs, the ones inside map and dome lights don't last forever.
Growing up, chores in my household included the usual tasks—like cleaning, taking out the garbage, and helping to prepare meals—as well as yard work and some basic car maintenance. Before I turned 15 and started preparing to get my license, my duties were simple: Largely limited to washing and detailing, checking and refilling windshield washer fluid, and replacing interior light bulbs.
It's been a while since I last replaced a bulb in a map or dome light, so I asked John Lim, a mechanic and the owner of JB Motor Works to walk me through the steps. Before we get started, it's important to note that these are general instructions and won't necessarily apply to every vehicle. Also, some vehicles now come equipped with LED bulbs, which are unlikely to burn out while you own the car. As always, when in doubt, check the owner's manual to find out what you're working with and what kind of replacement bulb you should buy.
"Always start by ensuring your car is turned off and the keys are removed from the ignition," Lim tells me. "This is crucial to prevent any electrical shorts or potential shock."
According to Lim, the lens covers of map and dome lights usually snap off—even though it may not seem like it at first, because they're held in place firmly to prevent rattling while driving. "Use a flat-head screwdriver or a trim removal tool, but wrap it in a thin cloth first," he explains. "This prevents any damage to the surrounding trim or the lens itself."
Gently insert the tool at the edge of the lens cover and pry it off with a small amount of force.
There's a good chance the old bulb is held in place by a clip or screwed into a socket. "For a clip, you can gently pull the bulb out," says Lim. "If it's in a socket, a counter-clockwise twist should free it." Either way, he recommends using a cloth or gloves to remove the bulb to prevent potential injury in case the bulb shatters.
Double check your replacement bulb to make sure it's the right type for your vehicle. Then, using a cloth or gloves, insert the bulb into the empty clip; if it's a socket, twist it clockwise to secure it. In addition to protecting your hands in case the bulb breaks while you're installing it, Lim recommends using a cloth or gloves to you can avoid touching the bulb with your bare fingers, as "the oils can shorten its lifespan."
Before you replace the lens cover, Lim says that it's important to test the new bulb. "Turn your vehicle on and activate the light," he says. "If it doesn't turn on, double check the bulb's position and ensure it's properly seated in its socket or clip."
Once you've confirmed that the new bulb works, you can replace the lens cover. "Align it with the housing, and gently press until it clicks into place," says Lim.
Have you ever noticed iridescent rainbow stains on your driveway after it's rained? What you're seeing is the thin film interference principle at work, and a sign that someone's car is leaking. But before you can address the root cause of the dripping, you need to figure out where it's coming from, and what it is. One of the simplest ways to do that involves a large piece of cardboard and some detective work. I enlisted the help of two mechanics—Jason Farrell, an ASE certified master technician and the editor of Mechanic’s Diary and John Lim, a mechanic and the owner of JB Motor Works—who walked me through the steps of the cardboard test, and how to identify the leaking fluid.
While the cardboard test is pretty straightforward, here are a few things to know that will help you get the most out of the process.
Here's what to do:
Park: When you've finished driving for the day, "try to park on a flat surface to prevent the fluids from running off the cardboard," says Lim.
Wait: As a safety precaution, Farrell recommends waiting for the engine to cool down before getting started.
Put down the paper: Place a large, light-colored piece of cardboard underneath the car. "Make sure the cardboard extends beyond the width of your vehicle," Lim tells me. "If possible, use a large piece that can cover the area from the front bumper to the back." Farrell recommends using using heavyweight cardboard.
Most people aren't going to have car-sized pieces of white cardboard sitting around, so you may need to improvise. You could:
-Tape several pieces of cardboard together—placing the tape on the underside only, if possible.
-Glue or tape pieces of white paper on top of the cardboard.
-Use white butcher paper (the kind that comes in a roll) and tape or weigh down the perimeter so it stays in place.
-Use a light-colored tarp or old sheet.
Wait some more: Leave everything in place overnight.
Check the cardboard (or sheet, or butcher paper, etc.) the following day. "The stained cardboard tells quite a story," says Farrell. More specifically, it will provide two pieces of information: what fluid is leaking, and where it's leaking from.
It's usually easier to try to identify the source of the leak first, while the cardboard is still in place.
"You need to trace the drips or stains on the cardboard back to the car," Lim explains. "The position of the stain on the cardboard should give you a rough idea of where to start looking. However, keep in mind that fluids can drip off one part, hit another, and then fall to the ground, so the leak may not be directly above the stain."
Farrell suggests using a flashlight to illuminate the undercarriage while tracing the leaks, and taking photos of the position and patterns of the stains while the cardboard is still under the car, and once it's out.
Once you pull the cardboard or sheet out from under the car, it's time to take a closer look at the stains.
"When reviewing cardboard stains, location, color, smell, and consistency all provide clues to the source," Farrell explains. "For example, oily spots dripping straight down likely come from the oil pan or filter areas. Greenish liquid pooling near the front signals coolant from the radiator, hoses, or water pump. Brake fluid may eat through the cardboard, indicating a leak higher up around calipers or brake lines."
Here are some other tips for identifying various fluids from Farrell and Lim:
Engine oil generally appears dark brown or black, feels slick, and burns the nose.
Transmission fluid is usually red or green and slippery.
Coolant can be pink, green, or yellow, feels slimy, and smells sweet.
Power steering fluid is clear to light brown, and has a burnt-marshmallow smell.
Brake fluid is clear to light brown, and feels oily but not slick.
If it looks like you have multiple leaks, Farrell recommends troubleshooting in order of difficulty. "Always start with the simplest leak possibilities before digging deeper, in case it's an easy fix," he says. "Catching problems early by 'reading' that cardboard could prevent thousands in repair bills down the road."
What would eventually come to be known as a glove box started out as a tool storage compartment built into the wood-paneled dash of the 1900 Packard Model B. In addition to the car's crank, it also turned out to be a handy place to stash gloves, which were an essential accessory for driving an early 20th century vehicle lacking heat, a hard top, and power steering on the country's mostly unpaved roads.
While cranks are no longer a necessity, it is helpful to keep a few other key items in your glove compartment. I asked a professional mechanic what you should be storing in yours.
According to Todd Bialaszewski, a mechanic and founder of Junk Car Medics, "a well-prepared glove box is a mechanic's best friend." But you don't need to be a professional to benefit from what you can fit in the storage compartment. Here are his suggestions:
"Whether inspecting under the hood at night, or peering into a dark car interior, a strong beam helps illuminate problems," Bialaszewski tells me.
Need to change a tire or your oil but not sure how to do it? Check your manual. "It's essentially a guidebook for your vehicle," says Lim.
You'll need these documents in the event of an accident.
"This small tool allows you to check your tire pressure anytime, anywhere," says Lim. "Maintaining the correct tire pressure can improve your vehicle's handling, fuel efficiency, and the lifespan of your tires."
It's always a good idea to keep a basic first aid kit with bandages, antiseptic wipes, and gauze in your glove compartment. "This can be crucial if you or a passenger suffers a minor injury while on the road," says Lim.
Sure, you'll probably have your phone on you, but it never hurts to have a pen and paper on hand. "They can be used to exchange information after an accident, write down directions, or leave a note if you've had to park someone in," Lim explains.
Instead of a Swiss Army knife, Lim recommends a compact multi-tool that includes pliers, a screwdriver, and a small knife. "This can be useful for minor repairs or adjustments," he says.
"If a fuse blows while you're on the road, having a spare can be the difference between getting where you're going and getting stuck," says Lim. Check your vehicle's manual if you're unsure how to replace them.
While used—sorry, pre-owned—cars are more affordable than brand-new models, they also come with the potential for more problems in both the short- and long-term. It's always a good idea to do your homework and fully understand what you're buying; but if you don't know what to look for, the process can quickly start to feel overwhelming.
Of course, not every used car shopping experience is going to be the same, so I asked three automotive experts what they think are the most important things to consider before purchasing a pre-owned vehicle.
Before you start browsing used car inventory, it's essential to figure out how much you can realistically afford, says Mark Scholl, the executive vice president of operations and retail sales at Montway Auto Transport. "If you’re thinking about financing, start by determining how much money you want to put down, along with current interest rates, and loan length," he says. "Doing this homework upfront will give you a clear picture of the vehicles that will fit your budget."
According to Scholl, the prices of used electric vehicles are falling, making 2024 a good time to consider if one makes sense for your lifestyle and budget. "While some EVs may have a higher initial purchase price, with lower maintenance costs, they can save you money in the long run," he notes.
Also consider whether you can afford a car that still has a balance of the manufacturer’s warranty, or is Certified Pre-Owned, says Jon Albert, Partner and Vice President at JKR Advertising & Marketing. "[This way], you have a bit more peace of mind built into the purchase," he tells me. "It gives you time, however much is left in the warranty, to detect any issues that may arise and have them repaired before it expires."
It’s also a good idea to find out how much labor costs for the car you have in mind, says Albert. "You might be shocked at how much more luxury-brand vehicles are to repair than their non-luxury counterparts," he notes. "This will help you eliminate an unpleasant surprise down the road."
When comparing vehicles, Scholl encourages used car shoppers to look at mileage in a new way. "While a low-mileage vehicle may seem like a better option, this isn't always the case if it hasn’t been properly maintained," he explains. "When you compare a used vehicle with low mileage to a new vehicle, the savings are significant. For example, the price of a slightly used vehicle with a few thousand miles averages about 11% less than the brand-new model."
Whether a used car is being sold by a dealership or private seller, be sure to request the vehicle's history report.
If the seller can’t provide the report, Hunter Brabham, a vehicle modifications and maintenance specialist and category manager at CarParts.com, suggests asking them for the vehicle identification number (VIN), and ordering your own report. You can get a vehicle history report from the National Motor Vehicle Title Information System, and companies like CarFax, AutoCheck, and VinAudit—though you may have to pay a fee of $25 to $40 for those.
"The information [in the report] can reveal previous accidents, ownership history, and maintenance records, helping you decide if the car is a sound purchase," says Scholl. The report will also let you know if the vehicle has ever been totaled. "You can also go to the National Insurance Crime Bureau to find out if the vehicle was ever stolen," says Brabham.
While vehicle history reports aren't always 100% accurate, Albert stresses the importance of insisting on one. "Some states will even give you the name of the previous owner if you’re buying from a dealer—contacting them could be another potentially good source of information," he adds.
If buying from a private seller, Scholl recommends asking them:
Why are you selling the vehicle?
How long have you owned it?
Have you made any after-market upgrades?
Do you have a clear title?
May I take the car to my mechanic for an inspection?
If you’re purchasing a car from the previous owner, Brabham also recommends asking for maintenance records, and if there were any recent problems that needed to be fixed.
Beyond the car itself, take the time to research the make and model, as well as whether it’s ranked highly for things like durability or low maintenance costs, says Scholl. "Consumer Reports and Kelley Blue Book are trusted resources that can help shoppers find vehicle valuations, expert ratings, customer reviews, and more," he explains.
You'll also want to look into common problems specific to the make and model, and check to see if there have been any recalls of the vehicle. "Visiting online forums and owner groups are a great way to learn about what common problems other car owners are experiencing, and what is required to fix the issues."
Finally, Scholl advises asking the seller whether the vehicle has been in a flood, and checking the title if possible. "When a dealer is trying to resell a vehicle, the title must indicate if it is a salvaged vehicle, which means it was involved in a major accident or natural disaster," he explains. "If you suspect the vehicle has been in a flood, check underneath the seats and in the trunk for rust, mud or mildew odors."
Before making an offer, Scholl advises inspecting the car thoroughly, both inside and out. "Look for signs of rust, paint damage, and uneven tire wear—which may indicate alignment issues," he says. "Look under the hood, and check for any leaks or unusual engine noises." You may also want to consider bringing the vehicle to a local repair shop for a pre-purchase inspection. "This usually only requires about one hour of labor, and can expose issues that can only be seen by having the car on a lift," Brabham says.
In addition to helping you determine if a car is a good fit for you and your lifestyle, Brabham recommends taking the vehicle for a test drive, as it will also give you the chance to see illuminated warning lights and hear disturbing noises that you might otherwise miss. "Try to choose a route with side streets, hills, and highways to get a feel for how the car will handle in your daily life," says Scholl. "Test the acceleration, steering, and brakes, and make sure you have good visibility."
You can get 1TB of Koofr cloud storage on sale for $129.97 right now (reg. $810) with the promo code KOOFR through March 24. Koofr helps keep files, photos, and other data safe and in one place, and since you can access your account across all your devices, you can always find what you need when you need it. You can even connect your other cloud storage accounts with Koofr to create an easy-access data storage hub. Koofr has encrypted files and zero tracking, and its interface makes file management is pretty straightforward, including a duplicate file finder. If you've been looking to buy cloud storage for your files, this sale is a good time—just be aware that your code must be redeemed within 15 days of buying.
You can get a lifetime subscription to Koofr Cloud Storage on sale for $129.97 right now (reg. $810) with the promo code KOOFR through March 24 at 11:59 p.m. PT, though prices can change at any time.
Although your vehicle's battery is essential to its operation, it's also easy to forget about—or at least take for granted—when everything is running smoothly. That, of course, changes when your battery starts showing signs of weakness, or stops working altogether. But there's no reason to be caught off guard by a dying battery when you can test it yourself. If you've never tested a car's battery, it may sound like a daunting task, but as Garrett Tortelli, a senior category manager at Batteries Plus, explains below, it's a relatively simple—but important—process. Here's what to know.
Let's start with the obvious: Regularly testing your car's battery will help you avoid a situation where your battery dies and you're stranded at home, work, or anywhere else, says Tortelli. While there are signs that a car battery is on the fritz—like taking a long time to start—that's not always the case.
Because you can't rely on your car to let you know that its battery is close to being drained, it's important to have it tested. "While an individual can easily test certain things on the car themselves, at-home testing only goes so far," Tortelli tells me. "Some testing, like simulating an engine starting—known as a 'load test'—should be checked by a professional with the right tools and safety precautions."
The easiest way to test your car's battery at home is to use either a voltmeter or multimeter. As its name suggests, a voltmeter measures the voltage of a car battery. A multimeter also measures voltage, as well as resistance, continuity, and other things. The testing process that Tortelli recommends only measures the battery's voltage, so a voltmeter is sufficient. Both tools are affordable, and available at most hardware and auto parts stores, or online—like this AstroAI Multimeter ($12.99) or this KAIWEETS Multimeter ($15.99).
Here's how Tortelli suggests checking your car's battery on your own:
When the vehicle isn't running, connect the red lead of the voltmeter or multimeter to the positive terminal of the battery, and the black lead to the negative terminal of the battery. "[The] voltage should be around 12.4 to 12.8V," Tortelli explains. "If the voltage is below 12V, you could have a charging issue, or a defective cell in the battery."
Next, Tortelli recommends starting the vehicle. Does it turn over slowly during normal weather? "It’s common in the cold for the vehicle to turn over slower, as everything [including] the oil is sluggish," he explains. "This is normal. However, if it struggles to turn over, [and is] slower than usual, this could be a sign the battery is no longer hitting the vehicle’s CCA—or cold cranking amps—specs, and is another sign the battery may begin to fail."
Use a voltmeter or multimeter to test the battery's voltage again—this time with the vehicle running. "This will check that the alternator is putting out the right charging voltage while you're driving, keeping the battery charged," Tortelli explains. "The desired voltage reading should be around 14V—typically between 13.8V and 14.5V."
As Tortelli mentioned above, in addition to checking your car's battery yourself, you should also have it professionally tested. He recommends bringing your vehicle in for professional battery testing every fall, before cold weather arrives—especially for batteries more than three years old, or those getting close to their warranty expiration period. Other than that, Tortelli suggests professional battery testing "if you're experiencing the slower than usual starting power on the engine," or have other concerns about your battery's lifespan.
According to Tortelli, the professional equipment will not only test the battery voltage, car alternator, and starter functionality, but it will also test for CCA. "The most important test on whether or not the battery is good is to hit the rating of the car's engine needs," he explains. "Simulating a load, or draw of the battery, for a period of time can tell you if the battery is good, bad, or on the edge."
If there's one holiday tradition you can count on in our ever-changing world, it's that by the end of every year, you're going to see a commercial for a car with a giant car-sized bow on top of it. While I've never personally been gifted a car with a giant car-sized bow (and feel free to change that for me), it's true that now is one of the best time to go car shopping. Many automakers offer sales and financing deals on cars right now to help push them off the lot as the new model year cars roll in. If you’re in the market for a new or used car, this time of year can be a great time to buy for added savings, but only with the right plan. Arm yourself with these buying tips when car shopping over the holidays.
Aim to purchase near the very end of December, as salespeople scramble to meet monthly quotas and annual sales goals before the year concludes. Christmas Eve and New Year’s Eve are excellent times to get the best offers. Model year-end clearance sales will also net steep discounts—just be sure you’re comfortable buying the prior year’s model if going this route.
Research is your best friend. By the time you arrive at the dealership, you should already know the following:
Your budget
Whether you're leasing or buying (Although you should probably buy, not lease.)
Your top choice (plus two back-up models)
Research market prices for vehicles using price-comparison sites like Edmunds or Kelley Blue Book. Gauge the fair market value of the make and model you're interested in.
In terms of payment, the gold standard is to pay for a car in cash and in full, but that's not a realistic possibility for all buyers. Instead, opt to get pre-approved for an auto loan from your bank or credit union and compare the offer to dealer financing. Your credit score plays a major role in determining your interest rate and whether you’ll get approved. Before applying for a loan, check your credit score so you know where you stand. If it’s low, here are ways to boost it.
Another holiday-specific tip is to look at year-end inventory on last year's models. As the 2024 models come in, dealers will be looking to offload 2023 and even 2022 models still sitting on the lot, giving you negotiation power.
Look out for holiday-exclusive pricing packages and cut preferential financing rates. Monitor sales highlights and fine print exclusions on manufacturer and dealer websites. Check to see if manufacturer financing or customer rebates are available for the cars you're considering. Keep in mind that some holiday-related manufacturer incentives might actually be in place before the holiday weekend and may extend past it.
Time to put all your research to use. Cars are hot commodities, so be ready to pull the trigger at the dealership. You should mention any competing offers you've received to use as leverage, even if they aren't an exact apples-to-apples comparison. Then again, the old days of walking away as a negotiating tactic are over for the time being—by the time you come back, your car will most likely have been sold.
One area to be flexible: Car color and trim options. Opting for colors/options that aren't as popular can save you money as the dealer may be trying harder to move those vehicles.
If you're trading in your existing vehicle, its age or mileage will determine its baseline value regardless of whether it's the holidays or not. But you gain leverage negotiating the purchase price for the new vehicle during peak sale promos. Highlight applicable retail rebates and reference year-end volume goals salespeople are striving towards when pressing for the lowest overall price. Review which dealership fees you can and cannot avoid.
The festive chill in the December air doesn’t have to dampen big-ticket purchases—with the right mindset, you can unwrap a sweet new car deal this holiday season.
With winter weather upon us, depending on where you live, you might need tire chains this season. While chains are sometimes not allowed in cities, on mountain roads and in more rural areas they can be a life saver. Here’s a helpful set of tips to get you going with your snow chains snugly in place.
The first step to snow chains is choosing the right size. While there will be a little bit of variation, getting the right size for your vehicle’s tires is important to make sure they stay put while you’re driving. To determine what size tire you have, look for the label on the tire’s sidewall with a three-digit number, then a slash, then a two-digit number. The first number refers to the width of your tire. The second number is the percentage of the width and refers to the depth of the tire. Chains are often made to fit a range of tire sizes, so you can look for a set that includes your tire size in its range on the label.
To prepare for a successful snow-chain installation on the road—where it’s wet, cold, and possibly dark—it’s a good idea to get your chains out and do a dress rehearsal in your garage or driveway before attempting a real-time installation. Although you should avoid driving on your chains if there isn’t snow on the road because they can damage the surface (and also your driveway or garage floor), putting the chains on in a comfortable environment first before trying to use them for the first time in a snow storm—or on the side of a highway next to a mountain pass—will make your live-action installation go that much more smoothly.
The chains go on whichever set of wheels drives the vehicle, so on a front-wheel drive vehicle, they go on the front; for rear-wheel drive, they go on the back. Lay out the chains on the ground to make sure they’re untangled before installing them. There should be a cable or a straight chain on one side and a series of criss-crossed chains attached to that. Place the chains so that the hooks holding them to the cable are facing out from the tires. This will prevent them from damaging the side walls of the tires. If your chains came with instructions, now is a good time to get those out, since not all tire chains are exactly alike.
Once you have the chains laid out and untangled, pull them behind the tire and then drape them over the tire, with the open end towards the ground. Next join together the two corners of the snow chains that are on the underside of the vehicle. There will be a hook or other device to attach the two. Then, you can join together the two corners of the snow chains that are on the side of the tires facing the road.
Tensioning the chains is the final step before driving. Most people will find it easiest to tension their chains if they drive forward just a little bit, allowing the chains to fall under the tires. A quarter to a half turn of the wheels is all you should need. Different chains have different types of tensioners, but in general you will have another chain, a stretchy cord, some clips, or some combination of those. The idea is to pull the chains a little more snugly around the tires, and this is done by pulling the outward-facing chain towards the center of the wheel, allowing it to evenly distribute the chain treads over the surface of the tire. If you’ve lost your tensioners, some people will use zip ties (make sure you have a way to cut them off to remove the chains), bungee cords or quick links to tighten up their chains. While these fixes might be okay as a last resort to make it out of a snow storm, it’s generally recommended to use a tensioner meant to be used for tires.
Driving on snow chains is a little different than on regular tires. You shouldn’t go faster than 25 mph on snow chains to avoid damaging the road or the chains themselves, and you should avoid fast stops and starts to keep the chains from skidding. If you see bare pavement, it’s time to take the chains off, as they can break if you drive too much on bare pavement with them; it’s bad for the roads; and a broken snow chain can damage your tires.
When someone has car trouble on TV or in a movie, the scene typically shows the character pulled over on the side of the road, standing in front of their vehicle's open hood, watching smoke billow out. Regardless what viewers know about cars, that dramatic visual suggests that the car has overheated.
But just because people are aware of the possibility of their car overheating doesn't mean they know how to tell if it's happening or how to handle the situation. That's why Lifehacker enlisted the help of some expert mechanics to walk us through the signs that your car is overheating, and what you should do next.
When we talk about a car overheating, we're really referring to the engine overheating. The good news is that your car isn't going to go from everything running as it should, to smoke (or more likely steam) coming out from under the hood in an instant. First, there will be clues that something is wrong. "When you've been around cars as long as I have, you get familiar with the signs of an engine running hot," says Robert Walden, a longtime mechanic and founder of Vehicle Freak.
But before we get into those, we should point out that these signs are based on some of the most common scenarios and is not an exhaustive list. Plus, as John Lin, a mechanic and the owner of JB Motor Works points out, "different car makes and models may have other specific needs or symptoms."
Generally speaking, some common signs that a vehicle is overheating include:
If your car is beginning to overheat, you may notice a sweet, warm smell, or see a vapor. "This is antifreeze, and will likely be the first symptom that a closer look may be required," Andy Saari, A.S.E. certified master technician and founder of Nexedge Technician, says. When a car is running properly, we're not able to smell its various fluids while driving, because they're busy keeping the car cool, Lin explains. "So, a smell [of fluids] could indicate [that] they're leaking onto hot parts of the engine," he says.
Most traditional temperature gauges don't include numbers, but instead represent a range from cold to hot (C to H), with the hot end of the scale usually shown in red. "The temperature gauge pushing into the red zone is a dead giveaway—time to back off and give that baby some breathing room," says Walden.
Temperature gauges, like the ones described above, are no longer standard in every vehicle, Saari points out. Instead, your check engine or temperature warning light might light up or start to flash, according to Lin. Some vehicles also have a dedicated low-coolant light; if it turns on or flashes, it's a sign that your car is in danger of overheating.
According to Walden, if you hear knocking or rattling noises while driving, it probably means that the parts in your car's engine are in desperate need of oil's lubrication.
The scent of an overheating engine isn't always sweet. According to Michael Dominguez, a certified master mechanic and the founder of Car Fixer Guide, you may also get a whiff of "an unusual smell, like burning rubber or hot oil." When you notice either of those odors—or the smell of burning plastic—"that's hot components in the engine bay reaching their limit," Walden explains.
If you notice your engine sputtering and lacking power when you hit the gas, it could be a sign of a problem with your car that's causing it to overheat, says Walden.
If you've pull over and gotten out of the car, carefully touch the hood. "If the hood feels like a frying pan, with heat wafting up in visible waves, trouble's brewing under there," says Walden.
Lastly, if you notice what Walden describes as "clouds of steam billowing out from under the hood," you need to take action as soon as possible.
If you recognize one or more signs indicating that your car is likely overheating, it's important to act immediately. "Understanding and responding correctly to overheating can prevent significant damage to your vehicle and ensure your safety on the road," Dominguez says. Here's what to do:
Once you suspect that your car is overheating, pull over to the side of the road as soon as you have the opportunity to do so safely, Dominguez, Lin, and Walden all point out. Then "shut off the engine immediately, before it boils over or gets damaged," says Walden, but "don't even think about opening the hood till it's cooled down."
For a variety of reasons, it's not always possible to pull over immediately upon realizing your car might be overheating. So while you're looking for somewhere to stop, Lin recommends switching off your air conditioning and turning on your heat. In fact, Saari and Walden advise cracking the heat up to the highest setting. "This can help draw heat away from the engine," Dominguez explains. "However, this is a temporary measure and shouldn’t replace stopping and addressing the issue."
While you're looking for somewhere safe to pull over, Lin says that "driving a bit slower and avoiding steep inclines can help."
As technology advances, cars getting better at self-regulating—including when it comes to engine temperature. "Modern vehicles have a self-protection mode built into the computer that helps protect the engine in the event it begins to overheat," Saari explains. "It usually involves shutting down cylinders to reduce engine temperature, and power."
When this happens, the car may eventually shut down completely, says Saari. "The engine fan will also likely sound much louder than normal, because it will be running at its highest speed," he adds.
Whether you already stock your vehicle with emergency supplies or you're putting your first kit together, here's what the experts we interviewed recommend keeping in your car to ensure you're prepared if it ends up overheating:
Basic set of tools, like this one from Stalwart ($14.71)
A gallon of prediluted coolant, like Valvoline Multi-Vehicle 50/50 Prediluted Ready-to-Use Antifreeze/Coolant ($20.17)
Distilled water
An engine coolant additive, like Red Line Water Wetter Super Coolant ($11.89)
LED flashlight or headlamp, like this one from Energizer ($10.40 for two), which is also water resistant
Owner's manual
First aid kit, like this one from YIDERBO ($12.91)
Extra phone charger
If you're starting from scratch, you may want to purchase a complete car emergency kit. Saari recommends the Everlit Roadside Emergency Kit ($64.95). "It has a warning triangle and a blanket, along with other items that may be helpful in different situations," he says.
Considering everything that can go wrong with your car, running out of gas is among the most frustrating, because it's also one of the most preventable. But when you're out driving and notice your low-fuel light is illuminated, what can you do to make sure the gas you have will get you to the next gas station?
I talked to a few mechanics to find out the best ways to conserve fuel when you're running on empty, and to gauge how far you can expect your remaining gas to take you. "We've all made mistakes and let the tank get too low," says Robert Walden, a longtime mechanic and founder of Vehicle Freak, but your mistake doesn't necessarily need to result in a walk to the nearest gas station.
The good news is that unless you're driving a fairly old car with an analog fuel gauge, "once the low-fuel light comes on, you will probably see a distance to empty mileage that is usually fairly accurate," says Andy Saari, an A.S.E. certified master technician and founder of Nexedge Technician. But fairly might not be good enough if you aren't sure how far you are from a gas station—and while your electronic gauge will give you a better idea of how far you can get on your remaining fuel, Saari says this number can fluctuate depending on the driving conditions.
It's hard to determine precisely how many miles a car can drive on "empty" or with the low-fuel light on, but generally speaking, you'll typically make it another 30 to 50 miles before your vehicle stops, says John Lin, owner and head mechanic at JB Motor Works. though once again, this can vary with the car's model, fuel efficiency, and other factors.
"Idling is the least fuel efficient method, since you’re burning gas and not going anywhere," Saari explains. "This is why many of today’s vehicles have an auto start-stop feature, which under certain conditions, will shut the engine off at stop signs or when idling."
In the event that you're running low on gas while driving in an isolated area, or stuck in traffic with no fuel station accessible, here are a few strategies for making the fuel you have last as long as possible, courtesy of the mechanics I interviewed:
When every ounce of fuel matters, switching off the air conditioning may help reduce engine load, says Saari. However, he says that another common suggestion—turning off your car's stereo—won’t make any difference in your fuel usage. "The energy usage will be insignificant," he notes.
If you notice that you're running low on gas, you may be tempted to increase your speed to get to a gas station faster, but Walden warns against that. "Take it easy on the gas pedal, and avoid speeding up too fast, which wastes gas," he explains. "I know being late can make you hit the gas, but going slow saves fuel when the tank is low."
While we're on the subject of acceleration, Lin recommends avoiding driving at high speeds, noting, "Your vehicle's fuel efficiency decreases rapidly at speeds above 50 miles per hour."
Along with rapid acceleration, slamming on the brakes can also burn more fuel than necessary, Lin says.
Smooth, steady driving without frequent stops and starts helps to conserve fuel, says Michael Dominguez, a certified master mechanic and the founder of Car Fixer Guide. "Adjusting your route to minimize stop-and-go traffic is also beneficial," he adds.
Ultimately, it's best not to make driving with your low-fuel light on a habit. "[Doing so] frequently can potentially harm the fuel system, as debris or sediments which normally settle at the base of the tank may get sucked into the fuel pump and damage it," Lin says.
Snow, ice, and frigid temperatures can make wintertime driving a challenge. Drivers deal with this in a variety of ways: From winterizing their cars and keeping emergency kits in their trunk, to paying more attention to their tires.
For example, some people mistakenly believe that reducing their tire pressure will improve their traction. Others understand that tires tend to lose air pressure in cold weather, but incorrectly assume that the solution is over-inflating their tires. As it turns out, while that's not exactly helpful, it's not harmless, either. To learn more, I asked two tire experts why over-inflating your tires is a bad idea.
According to Larry Sutton, the founder and CEO of RNR Tire Express, over-inflating your tires puts both the tires and people's safety at risk. "Over-inflating your tires can cause wear on the center of the tires much faster than on the remainder of the tire," he told me. "This will result in losing thousands of miles of use on each tire."
It gets worse: Not only will over-inflating your tires result in having to replace them before their time, it also reduces their traction, Sutton explains. "Ultimately, an overinflated tire decreases driver safety and increases the risk of accidents by a significant margin," he says.
Hunter Brabham, a category manager at CarParts.com, echoes Sutton's safety concerns, and confirms that it's not the cost-cutting strategy some people think it is. "There are various misconceptions about over-inflating tires as a cost- and fuel-saving hack, when the reality is that it’s dangerous to inflate your car’s tires beyond the vehicle manufacturer’s recommended specifications," he told me. "Over-inflating tires reduces handling and increases the chance of a tire blowout."
Plus, as Brabham points out, the uneven wear on your tires also causes ride quality to suffer—meaning you and your passengers will be less comfortable while driving.
Let's say you're doing your monthly air pressure check and notice that a tire's PSI (pounds per square inch) is higher than the manufacturer's recommendation. Is a tire with an extra two or three psi considered officially over-inflated, and therefore, a safety risk?
Not quite, says Sutton. While a tire performs best when you use the actual PSI recommended by the car manufacturer, don't panic if you're over by a few PSI. "Anything over 10 PSI [above the manufacturer's recommended PSI] will create tire wear and traction loss on most passenger tires," he says.
You can find the manufacturer’s recommended tire pressure listed on a placard inside the driver’s side door jamb, says Brabham.
Whether this will be your first winter living somewhere cold or you've been driving in the snow since you were a teenager, black ice can sneak up on you. Unlike snow and regular ice—which is visible when it's covering the road—black ice is thin, transparent, and typically hard to see from any kind of distance. It's also especially slippery, and therefore dangerous.
For these reasons, a driver might only realize that they've hit a patch of black ice after they start losing control of their vehicle. But, knowing what to do—or in this case, what not to do—next can help you navigate it safely. To help us get ready for winter, Lifehacker spoke with Lucas Waldenback, a driver education expert and the co-founder of Zutobi, an online driver's ed platform. Below, he breaks down three of the most common mistakes people make while driving on black ice, and what we should do instead.
Always take black ice—and weather reports that predict the possibility of it forming on roads—seriously, says Waldenback, who also advises "be[ing] ready to adjust your plans if necessary." Unfortunately, that's not always possible. So, if you end up coming across a patch of black ice, do your best to avoid making these mistakes:
When you realize that you've come across a patch of black ice, your first instinct may be to hit the brakes, but according to Waldenback, that's a bad idea. "It can make your wheels lock up," he tells Lifehacker. "When the wheels lock, your tires can't grip the road, and your vehicle starts sliding on the ice." Once you lose control of your car, it's tough to steer or get back on track. "Instead, take your foot off the gas and gently steer [in the direction] you want to go, without sudden moves," he says. "Smooth, gradual actions are vital to regaining control."
Accelerating on black ice is dangerous because the lack of traction can cause your wheels to spin in place. "When your tires spin on ice, it worsens things and can lead to a skid or loss of control," Waldenback explains. "So, let off the gas to let your vehicle slow down until you regain traction. If needed, use the brakes very gently, but be cautious."
This should really go without saying—because tailgating is never safe—but don't do it on black ice. "Stay [a] safe [distance] from the vehicle ahead [of you] to avoid rear-end collisions if the [other car] lose[s] control," Waldenback says.
Losing control of your car is unnerving, but Waldenback says that panicking is a mistake , as it might cause you to overreact in the moment. "Jerking the steering wheel suddenly can worsen the skid, or make you overcorrect—which is hard to recover from" he notes. "Instead, stay calm, lift off the gas, and steer gently in the direction you want to go. Keep your eyes on your desired path."
Along with avoiding the mistakes above, here's how Waldenback recommends staying safe when driving on black ice:
Be prepared for winter weather: Be sure to have the right tires, maintain your vehicle, and carry emergency supplies in case you get stuck.
Slow down and keep your distance: Leaving more space between cars gives you more time to react, and avoid accidents on icy roads.
Give yourself extra time: Your commute and other car journeys will likely take longer than usual in winter weather, so plan ahead. This will "reduce the urge to rush and make snap decisions on the road," he explains.
The bottom line: Exercise caution on car trips in winter weather, even if you're a seasoned winter driver. "Respect black ice," Waldenback says. "Understand it's a severe and hidden danger, so adjust your driving accordingly."
The holiday travel season is in full swing and more people are hitting the roads than ever, so if you haven't already reserved your own rental car, it's time to do so.
We've written before about why you should book your rental car early to lock in your rate, because you can (usually) cancel and rebook with no penalty if prices drop. But regardless of when you reserve and how rates fluctuate, there are a number of strategies for saving money on both base rates and fees (such as upcharges for young or additional drivers) when you book so you don't wind up blowing your whole travel budget on your rental car.
You should obviously compare prices across rental companies to get the cheapest option, especially if you aren't a member of any loyalty programs, and include rental car alternatives like Turo and Getaround. AutoSlash tracks rental car rates—for free—so you can set up an alert for your reservation.
But go one step further than just comparing companies. your rental company has multiple locations in your area—both in-town and at the airport, for example—check for price differences if you pick up and drop off at one versus another. Downtown pickup is cheaper on average than airport locations, according to NerdWallet. However, you should also factor in convenience (taking a rideshare to a location further away could offset any savings) and business hours, as well as available inventory and one-way fees if you pick up at one location and drop off at another.
AAA is perhaps the best-known auto club to offer car rental discounts, but there are a handful of membership programs with similar perks:
AARP: up to 30% off base rates
BJ's: up to 30% off base rates
Costco: up to 30% off base fares
USAA: up to 25% off
Sam's Club: up to 25% off
Each of the above contracts with certain rental car companies to offer discounts to their members, so if you prefer a specific provider, you should check the specifics before joining. Note that other than USAA (which offers membership only to military service members and their families), these clubs have fees to join that range from $12 to $110, and you may have to book your rental through the club's portal to take advantage of your discount.
But if you use this perk (and others) often, the money you save could quickly offset the price of admission.
As The Points Guy lays out, there are a handful of travel credit cards—the Chase Sapphire Reserve, The Platinum Card from American Express, and the United Club Infinite Card, for example—that have solid rental car benefits, such as discounts, waived fees, free upgrades, and priority service.
Another potential perk of using a travel credit card to book your rental is that insurance coverage such as damage waivers may be included, so you don't have to purchase costly coverage from the rental company or file a claim with your personal insurance in the event of a collision. (Obviously, you should check what's covered with your card before declining any additional insurance options.)
Hotel and airline loyalty program members may be able to score rental car discounts with partner companies and earn bonus points or miles on the booking. For example, Alaska Air offers 35% off Avis and Budget rentals and up to 1,250 miles for its Mileage Plan customers who use their membership number when booking, while Marriott has a partnership with Hertz to offer discounts to Bonvoy members.
If you use rental cars frequently and/or have a preference for a certain provider, you may want to consider joining their rewards program, which can earn you points that can be redeemed for rate discounts and upgrades.
Ask your employer about a corporate code for rental car discounts (just be sure you understand any restrictions, such as using it for personal vs. business travel). Similarly, some universities have partnerships with rental companies to offer discounts and perks to students and alumni. Union members may also have access to car rental benefits through UnionPlus.
Note that you may have to show proof of employment, enrollment, or membership to qualify for your discount.
So much of our digital lives now exist solely in the cloud. Companies like Apple, Google, and Microsoft make it all too easy to upload our important files to cloud storage from the moment we set up our devices.
On one hand, that's a good thing: If something happens to your phone, tablet, or laptop, that doesn't mean you lose all your messages, photos, and documents—assuming all that info is properly backed up to the cloud. When you get your device fixed or replaced, you can sign back into your account and pull all that data down from the cloud without losing anything in the transition. In fact, I suspect that our collective data has never been more secured than it is today, thanks to the abundance and simplicity of cloud storage.
However, that's not to say that our backup situation is perfect—far from it. Relying solely on the cloud for data storage can have disastrous consequences.
You can see those consequences in play this week: Unfortunately, some Google Drive users are reporting missing files dating back to May 2023. Google has publicly acknowledged the issue and is investigating, but that investigation won't necessarily bring back any of the files that have vanished from these users' Google Drive accounts. (I guess they'd just have to take comfort in knowing that Google figured out why it happened?)
For your protection, one Google Drive team member did warn users not to click disconnect account on Google Drive for desktop, and to avoid deleting or moving data in the following folders:
Windows: %USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Google\DriveFS
macOS: ~/Library/Application Support/Google/DriveFS
...but that's not exactly a big comfort.
To be clear, this event is not common. Companies like Google, Apple, and Microsoft host a lot of data from millions, if not billions, of users, without regularly losing any of it. Still, if it can happen once, it can happen again. Perhaps Apple announces next year that iCloud had an issue, and three months worth of photo uploads are now gone. Maybe Microsoft loses OneDrive user's data next October. You can't assume these services will be infallible forever.
That isn't to say don't use them. I use iCloud for just about everything I do in the Apple ecosystem. However, for anything important, you need to make sure you have a secondary backup in case something goes wrong.
That's what's likely playing out with these affected Google Drive users right now: Some of them will have used their Google Drive accounts as a secondary backup for their files, keeping another backup of them stored on a hard drive or another cloud service. They'll be frustrated, but not panicked, as the lost files will still be in this alternate location. Unfortunately, any users that added these files to Google Drive and deleted them from their computer (or created them in Drive and never made a backup) are likely very unhappy this week.
So let's talk about a secure backup situation looks like. Say you have an archive of important documents stored on your computer. They only exist on your computer, so if your SSD goes belly-up, those files are toast. So, what can you do? One easy solution is to add a copy of these files to a secondary location, whether that's an external hard drive or cloud storage. Now, these files exist in two places separate from each other. If the SSD breaks, they're in the cloud. If the cloud glitches out, they're on your computer. If the files are super important, making additional backups ensures that should an unlikely disaster strike, you'll still have access. Having files stored in at least two separate locations is usually enough protection for most of us.
But let's say your computer is running out of storage, and you don't want to store the files locally anymore. Don't simply dump them on the cloud or on an external SSD, delete them from your PC, and call it a day—one backup is no backup, after all. You'll want to copy them to another cloud storage or external storage solution to ensure there are at least two copies of those files somewhere.
Where this starts to get a bit tricky is when using automated cloud storage options like iCloud. Apple makes it easy to connect all your data to iCloud so you never really need to think about constantly backing things up. When you take a photo, it stores on your iPhone and iCloud: When you send a message, same thing.
While you technically have two files in two separate locations, a service like iCloud is tied to your iPhone. If you delete a message from your iPhone, it helpfully deletes that text from the cloud too. If you delete a photo from your library, it gets deleted from iCloud (after a 30 day countdown, anyway). That's by design, and it means your files aren't totally secure against data loss.
What I like to do is rely on cloud storage solutions like iCloud for general backing up purposes (if I lose my iPhone, signing into a new one with my Apple ID brings all my data back), while also making a full backup of my devices to an external source. You can make a backup of your iPhone to iTunes or Finder on your computer, for example, while still having all your data stored in iCloud. That way, if you accidentally delete a thread of messages from your iPhone and iCloud at once, you can restore from your backup to get them back. The same goes for missing photos, notes, contacts, or anything else that gets lost.
While you can rely on full cloud backups for a similar approach, they tend to back up automatically and overwrite the previous backup, so your chances of restoring to a backup that also is missing the data you're looking for is high. The tradeoff with external backups, such as to a computer, is they're less frequent, so you may miss new messages and photos that were added since the last backup. It's a balancing act, but the point is to protect your data in as many ways as possible.
Photos are probably the thing I worry about losing most, and would be devastated if something happened to Apple's servers and I lost every photo I've ever taken with mu iPhone. So on my Mac, I choose the "Download Originals to this Mac" option in Photos' settings under iCloud. That way, my Mac always has a backup of the full-res photos and videos in my library, while my other devices can pull from the cloud as needed. Should something happen to the photos on Apple's end, my Mac has all my media saved securely.
This conversation can get a little in the weeds, especially as you start to focus on specific services. (OneDrive, Google Drive, iCloud, etc.) But the general rule of thumb for all backups is simple: You need to keep all of your important files stored in at least two separate locations. So long as you have another source to pull your files from, you can safely weather any disaster—digital or physical—that befalls your data.
Black Friday deals are here, and you can find great deals on gaming consoles. If you’re a gamer, you understand the struggle of never having enough storage. Unfortunately, storage expansion packs for consoles can get awfully expensive; a 2TB Seagate storage expansion pack for the Xbox Series X, for instance, is currently $279.99. Luckily, there are other options. The Crucial X6 and X8 portable solid state drives (SSDs) are heavily discounted on Amazon for their Black Friday sale, down to the lowest prices they’ve ever been, and they’re compatible with the newest consoles (to an extent).
If you’re looking for a trusted brand in SSDs that are compatible with gaming consoles, then I have one for you: Crucial has been making SSDs that are compatible with the latest gaming consoles for some time. Their Crucial X8 and X6 external SSDs are made for students, gamers, and on-the-go creators. Here are your current options:
Crucial X6 SSD: The X6 is small, measuring 69 mm x 64 mm, with speeds of up to 800MB/s, and your choice between 500GB to 4TB of storage. Currently, the best deal available is for the 2TB on Amazon with a 60% discount at $79.99 (originally $199.99). This matches the lowest price it has been, according to Camelcamelcamel's price history. You can read PCMag's full review of it here. However, before you pull the trigger on the X6, consider the X8 for the same price.
Crucial X8 SSD: You can think of the X8 as the older brother of the X6. Although it's only 20% off, it's the same price as the X6, at $79.99 (originally $99.99). This is the lowest price it’s been, according to Camelcamelcamel's price history. The X8 can reach faster speeds than the X6, of up to 1,050MB/s. It measures 110 mm x 53.1 mm x 11.4 mm, and it has rubberized ends to add shock protection. With much faster speeds than the X6 for the same price, there's no reason not to get the X8.
Crucial X10 Pro: If you’re looking for much faster speeds of up to 2100MB/s, the X10 Pro is also available for $129.99, its lowest price ever, according to Camelcamelcamel's price history.
The Crucial website explains how their SSDs are compatible with the latest consoles. However, something you should be aware of is that they don’t provide full compatibility. This is what you get for the crucial SSDs, according to Crucial:
Xbox Series X games can be stored on a third-party drive. Players will need to copy them over to the internal drive or expansion card in order to play them.
Sony PlayStation 5 games can only be played directly from licensed drives. But, like the Series X, you can play PS4 titles from third-party devices.
As you can see in the video above, you'll be able to store games on the SSD, but you'll have to transfer them from the internal storage of the console. Also, the PS5 will only allow you to play PS4 games from the SSD. You can read more about the details on their website here.
In order to get my driver's license when I turned 16, I not only had to pass the state's driving test, but I also had to demonstrate my mastery of basic car maintenance tasks, as determined by my parents. This included checking my tire pressure, something I was instructed to do at least once a month during the winter months. Here's the reasoning behind that recommendation, and the best time of day to check your tire pressure.
When tires lose smaller amounts of air pressure in cold weather, it isn't a sign that they're leaking. Air contracts as it cools, so as temperatures drop, the air inside your tires becomes denser—taking up less space, and ultimately, losing air pressure.
Generally speaking, for every 10° F drop in temperature, your tires will lose one or two pounds per square inch (psi) of pressure. This is often enough to trigger your tire pressure monitoring system (TPSM) light, even though the loss in pressure may not be visible, and if your tires were fully inflated to start with, you probably won't notice it while driving.
Most tire experts recommend checking out tire pressure once a month during the winter—though some suggest doing it every two weeks, or after any sudden, significant drops in temperature. Your best bet is to check your tire pressure in the morning, before driving anywhere. If that's not an option, be sure to let the car sit for at least three hours after driving it in order to get an accurate reading.
It's not enough to check the pressure on a single tire: They may have lost pressure at different levels, so it's important to check all four tires, as well as your spare, if you have one. And as always, when in doubt, consult your owner's manual for more information on tire maintenance in cold weather.
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The Apple Watch is made to work with your iPhone, but you don’t need your iPhone to use your Apple Watch. OK, you do need an iPhone to pair and set up the device, but following that, your Apple Watch can function as a standalone device, at least for a variety of tasks—even if you have the wifi-dependent GPS model. No,…
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Got a long drive ahead of you? In a car with people full of various tastes? It’s road trip season, and if you need a podcast to binge in the car, this list has you covered. You can pop in and out of short stories about family drama and scams, or buckle in for real life sagas of catfishing, CIA conspiracies, and a…
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What happens on your PC doesn’t have to stay on your PC. If you ever want to show others what’s happening on your screen, whether that’s for a YouTube video, a social media post, or to teach a relative how to do something on their computer, record it! Windows 11 has two built-in ways to screen record, so there’s no…
Mega-retailer Walmart is ringing in Black Friday early this year with some sweet bargains on vacuums, including serious savings on my personal favorite: the laser-equipped Dyson V12 Detect Slim.
The more you walk, the lower your risk of death from all causes and from cardiovascular disease, according to a new study—although the numbers they identified as being effective are all less than 10,000 steps.
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Here’s a secret: If you order something online, then later find a better deal somewhere else, extended holiday return policies make it easy to return the original item. Not all stores offer such a policy, but plenty of the big stores do. If you know the policies ahead of time, you can shop to your heart’s content…
Your worst nightmare: It’s the day before Thanksgiving, and you still need to thaw your turkey. It doesn’t matter that multiple food websites have been yelling about turkey thaw times for days—if not weeks—now. There are always a few stragglers who wait until Wednesday or—much worse—Thursday morning.
Mashed potatoes are literal clouds of happiness. The potato, the butter, the cream, the salt. It’s like everything perfect in this world, in one fluffy form. A reasonable person wouldn’t eff around with such perfection, but I am not reasonable, so I’m here today to make a stand. You should make twice-baked potatoes…
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